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Ooo She's Purdy now!
#1

Spent my Memorial Day with a borrowed Porter Cable Orbital polisher and went through the whole process on the P-car: polish, swirl-mark remover, wax. Had a bit of trouble using too much polish at first... gumming things up a bit. But man, does Porsche know how to do paint! Despite my aching back and arms she looks like she just came off the lot!



I just had to tell someone, because I keep walking out into the garage just to look at it!! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#2

First, pictures please..Red cars always seem to come out awesome.



What brand of products did you use? My car needs a dedicated day with Mother's three step...



Jay
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#3

I did my car this past week. Coming from a detailer, can I offer some suggestions to your processes. Not sure what your using, but here is a typical day on the P-car for me!



First off, I never reccomend the use of SMR or a PC without first clay bar'ing. Your paint, regardless of miles, year, or condition will have embedded particles and other 'crap' in it. The PC will easily pick this up and while many of the larger swirls are gone, there will always be small ones...can be seen in the acid test under direct sunlight.



Second, I am not sure what polish you are using, but typically that is my last step before applying a sealant or wax. You want to start with your roughest material, often a hard grade SMR or Fine Cut. This will remove 99% of your swirls, but typically leaves a haze. What degrades from paint depth and shine are the flaws and swirls. You want those gone, as best as they can. If your fingernail doesn't get caught, we can get it out. So start with your roughest material. Then work your way down to your fine polish, either a cleaner polish or a pure polish.



I use Poorboys, Meguiars, and Pinnacle. Nothing than anyone can't buy offline. I only use premium grade microfiber for drying and sealant/polish removal. It never takes much of a product to work the paint, and you should never sweat detailing a car. If you are your working to hard (of course unless its 110 outside with 100% relative humidity...but in that case you shouldn't be detailing anyways <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> ). I start most cars with Poorboys SSR2.5 (Super Swirl Remover 2.5). I use 3 if the car is in rough shape, or Fine Cut if its in a aweful shape. I then work down to SSR1 which is more of a filler/cleaner than anything. Next I do a pure polish, most likely Mequiars number 7 pure show car polish. I then go next to Vanilla Moose polish...talk about depth...this brings out any paint. I follow with a sealant...new synthetics have benefits far greater than standard carnuba waxes ( I only use Carnubas for shine now). Sealants also multiply the depth of the paint to unbelievable portions. If you are feeling lucky (and rich) I highly reccomend finishing with Pinnacle Souveran paste wax, hand applied on dark colors. At $60 for a tub though, you need to be careful and relaxed on your application. There are far higher grade waxes, but nothing for street cars in my honest opinion. If $60 is to much, Poorboys Blue paste wax and P21S are great altrenatives.



So a recap -



Wash/Careful dry

Clay Bar (Off the shelf Mothers works great)

Poorboys SSR2.5 (or 3 if nessacary)

Poorboys SSR1

Poorboys Pure Polish or Meguiars 7 Pure Polish

Vanilla Moose (Don't worry about taping up rubber...this stuff is magic)

Poorboys EX-P or Meguiars Synthetic Sealant

Wait 24hrs

Pinnacle Souveran Hand Applied



I am uploading some pictures in a minute of my works. I promise you will never regret spending 4-6hrs on your car after this process!



Wes
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#4

Thank you for the very detailed directions. Truly appreciated.
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#5

I used McGuires products:

-- Dual Action Cleaner/Polish

-- Swirl Remover 2.0

-- TechWax

they worked fine. My friend (An '06 Z6 Owner) loaned me the polisher and the products.



I have been using Klasse All In One by hand before now. You can also use that with an orbital polisher. I would try that next time.



However, the combination of the polish first took out all of the remaining oxidation. The Swirl Remover did a fantastic job of eliminating those small, circular scratches that just seem to accumulate in paint. The ones that show up in the lights of the garage and drive you crazy when you think you have it really clean. The wax is a synthetic polymer that went on (and off!) very smoothly.



There is a forum on Rennlist dedicated to Concours and Car Care that will tell you everything (and waaaay more) than you ever wanted to know about many different procedures and products. Anthony Orosco, who posts there a lot, is a wealth of knowledge!



Pictures (still working on the art of auto photograpy):
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#6

Oh yes, as pointed out by Whakiewes: Clay bar first! It even works on the glass for it really sparkle.
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#7

Your car looks good! I wasn't trying to suggest what you did was wrong, but I have experimented with everything known to man, and my system seems to work flawlessly without much work. The funny thing is in my time talking to other details, I have come across others who LITERALLY use the same process and products!



Its hard to make red look bad, let alone on a Porsche! Great job!



Wes
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#8

No worries, I didn't take it that way, Wes! Do you use a different final wax for a single stage paint (like my Guards Red) vs. a clear coat? One combination I tried a while back (Klasse AIO + a carnuba wax) worked real well on a friends clear coated silver, but the wax actually dulled things for me. Also, where do you get the products you mention?
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#9

Pete,



Have you ever used Klasse glaze? I bought a kit that came with both the AIO and synthetic glaze. The stuff is great. Also keeps brake dust from sticking.
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#10

[quote name='Ryan' date='Jun 1 2006, 12:50 PM']Pete,



Have you ever used Klasse glaze? I bought a kit that came with both the AIO and synthetic glaze. The stuff is great. Also keeps brake dust from sticking.

[right][post="22199"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I haven't used the glaze yet, but will try it out. How does it work on single stage paint?
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#11

I don't know about the single-stage paint. Mine is clear-coated.
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#12

It will work fine on single stage paint it's just a synthetic topper.
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#13

I'll try it.
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#14

Just used a clay bar on my car, and I'm stunned at the results! I knew it would help smooth out the paint and get rid of dirt and contaminants, but didn't think it would it be THAT big of a different. Before the hood felt like it was partly sand paper, afterwards? Smooth as silk!



All that's left now is to apply some carnuba wax, but I'm not sure how well it will go without a buffer, or one of those orbital thingies.
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