[Eric_Oz_S2]

I have just installed my rebuilt engine into my S2. I'm getting fuel at the fuel rail, but apparently no spark (pulled plug out and while cranking no evidence of spark), and no fuel injector pulse (plugs are dry, no fuel smell).



If the reference sensor is bad (or incorrectly gapped), will it prevent spark AND fuel?





Eric

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[Cloud9...68]

What makes you suspect your reference sensor? Have you done any tests on it? The simplest (although apparently not necessarily the most reliable) indicator of the health of the reference sensor is that when you crank the engine, you should see the tach needle bounce by several thousand rpm, in sync with the gaps in the flywheel ring gear passing in front of the senor's magnetic pick-up. Are you getting voltage to the correct pins on your ECU? The manual describes which pins these are - I can't remember off the top of my head. And have you ruled out the DME relay by jumpering its pins?

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

OK, got it going. It seems that the starter wasn't turning the engine quite fast enough and the DME wouldn't provide fuel or spark. Once I attached a booster battery to give it a bit more kick it started up.



Initially there was no tach bounce, mustn't have been enough engine speed.



I hope that's the end of the saga that started in May when I cracked a cylinder. Only got the replacement engine in August, so that's about 10 week (weekends) of complete rebuild. Now just to reinstall the control arms and wheels and take it for a spin.



Also need to bleed the supercharger so it doesn't spew oil out of the filler cap (a pain of a job if I remember from last time).

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[tamathumper]

Does your tach needle really bounce by several thousand RPMs?

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[Cloud9...68]

That's what the manual says is supposed to happen, and I seem to recall that while I was troubleshooting my no-start problem after my rebuild, the tach needle did indeed bounce quite a bit as I was (futilely) cranking the engine. This is why I ruled out the reference sensor. But is seems like large tach needle bounce when cranking an engine that won't start isn't universal, which seems odd.

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[flash]

bleed the supercharger??? the rotrex doesn't need bleeding, but only priming. if it's pumping out the cap, there is too much fluid in it.

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

The level in the reservoir is surging up and down at idle. I disconnected the sc to replace my engine but punched the hoses to avoid fluid loss. I suspect there is air in the system which I need to bleed.

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[flash]

it's a self bleeding system. there is no bleeding procedure. there is only a priming procedure. if it's surging up and down at idle, something is wrong.

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

Fixed - there was air in the system. I loosened the banjo bot at the inlet and pressurised the tank o get all of the air out.

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[flash]

it is self bleeding. i don't know how many times i can say it. your problem will repeat, assuming there was actually a problem to begin with.



the rotrex is a dry sump system, and requires no bleeding. it only requires priming. once you get fluid into the unit, you are done. it will bleed itself in the reservoir.



that is why it is critical to have the reservoir mounted at the highest point.

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[DaveN]

Maybe there is a restriction in the hose and has trapped in some air and isn't actually self-priming. Be cautious, I know what happens when the Rotrex doesn't lubricate properly.

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[flash]

yup - that's my thinking too. either that, or the reservoir is not mounted high enough.

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

Like I said - it is fixed.

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[flash]

i'm having a hard time understanding how it is "fixed". you didn't actually do anything. there is no bleeding that can be done. did you unkink a hose? did you move the reservoir? what changed?

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

See post 9

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[flash]

yeah - you did nothing to cure your problem by doing that. the system would do that on its own, assuming there were no kinks. it does not need to be bled EVER. it is self bleeding. it is not a sealed system. air passes in and out of the cap.



you may have primed it by doing that, just as you do when you first install the system, per the instructions. from there it will take over and maintain flow. however, you did not bleed it.



this still does not explain why the reservoir was surging.

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

You can say what you like, but it did cure the problem. I'm not sure why you can't accept that. When you first prime the system you are only pushing oil through. When you disconnect the inlet hose you will always introduce an air pocket into the oil feed line which needs to be bled by repriming.



Are you really going to keep arguing with me over this?

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[flash]

it's not me saying it. it's rotrex.



i will keep arguing as long as you are wrong. i know i am right, direct from the manufacturer. i had to ask them that very question when i was designing the kit. their response was that as long as there was fluid in the head unit, it did not matter if you disconnected the hose or not, because the unit bled itself, and would push out any air.

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

How do you know there was no air in the supercharger? It was removed from the engine so there was possibly some oil lost through incidental spillage.



In any case by your logic you could simply connect an empty hose to the supercharger (with some oil in it) and it would simply suck through the entire column of air. I don't think so.



It doesn't really matter what you say, it FIXED the problem. So in my case you are wrong.

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[flash]

correct. you can connect an empty hose, as long as there is oil in the supercharger. if there is oil in the reservoir, there is no way to connect an empty hose though, as the reservoir is supposed to be mounted higher than the supercharger, and gravity alone will fill it. you can't disconnect the inlet hose without it dribbling the entire contents of the reservoir.



i am not wrong. you did not fix anything. what you think you did, did nothing. what you might have done, was unkink a hose. otherwise, you need to look for the source of the problem, because even if the symptom is temporarily gone, it will return.

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