MC968CS,
I run in the QLD Porsche Club championship - won E class last two years and the overall Club Championship this year (runner up last year). The 911 guys have got their noses out of joint and are changing the rules and will put me up a class (they cannot believe a car with 240hp can do the times I do). Best I have done is 1:00.1 around Lakeside and I had a day at Wakefield park where I was in the low 1:09's. I drive the door handles off the thing and love it.
I am going to Bathurst at Easter as well. I will be very circumspect as guys who have done Drive Bathurst before tell me it will bite hard if you are not on your game.
If you drop me an email, I can list all of the mod's I have made so far. Short answer is it is now an awesome track car but a bit compromised for the road. If I was doing it again, I would change the coil-overs from Bilsteins to KW's as they are adjustable and have better bump control when on-road. The bigger roll bars are great for keeping the car flat - but were a pig to fit. You can buy a different type which pivots through a bearing - but I am not sure of the cost versus performance gains. The 18" rims look better and have a wider variety of tyres available. I run either 225 or 235 section tyres on the front (with the 21mm spacers - the 235's just (and I mean just) clear the nose and guards) and 285 section rears. I also changed to Dunlop Dizerra's last year. Dropped around a second a lap - but went through two left fronts and one left rear (they wear quickly). Under the new proposed rules I can run the Hoosier semi-slick - but this is a cost I am not sure about as it means you need the Dunlops for wets and the Hoosiers for dry.
There is a 968 Club Sport up here which has been stripped, has a roll cage and weighs around 150 or so kilo's less than mine - but I am doing lap times just in front of him. I think it is the combination of the roll bars and additional wheel track from the spacers that let me carry more speed through corners. I also have the Big Black brake upgrade which is better than the M030 option as well (plus a changed brake bias valve).
For the $39 cooling part - it is a small plastic/rubber trim kit that sits on top of the A/C condensor and radiator to prevent the air flow from spilling over the top of the radiator. I have had lots of trouble keeping the car cool on hot track days. The only way to do this is to short shift and lower RPM. To try and fix this I have got a new lower temp thermostat (around 10 degrees C earlier cut in), a second oil cooler from RSBarn, the trim strip which was missing (see the Cooling Section of the Foum there are two posts there) and my mechanic up here has made up a lower duct in the nose cone to direct all of the air into the radiator.
I pick the car up this week and we have a practice day at Queensland Raceway on Sunday. So I should be able to see if there is a difference.
Regards,
Craig
