[MLB]

Hiya,

After letting my back recover for a day, I got the cylinder head pulled out tonight 

Here are a few pictures for the experts to comment on please.

I don't think the HG looks that bad really, especially the fire rings but what do I know.

Planning to send the head to Pete at RSBarn. He says he can turn one around in a week. I will call him tomorrow to discuss what's to be done. Any particular questions I should be sure to ask?

Thanks!

 

   

   

   

 

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[MLB]

OK...well any suggetions on how to clean and prep the gasket surface on the block, and the tops of the pistons?


RSBarn will take care of valve guides, any imperfect valves, and a resurface. Planning on the WideFire gasket.


Thanks,

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[JWahlsten]

Mike,

 

Hard to tell the condition of the headgasket from that picture.  I do see a couple of voids there so you had coolant going where it wasn't meant to.  Don't know that you had leaking combustion gases though.  Too oily.

 

I used a metal block and some very fine emery cloth and I used fine scotch brite pads.  Nothing harsh that will scratch.  I used purple power degreaser, and everything came out pretty clean.  I cleaned the intake, oil separator, and the block while I had the room.  The purple stuff worked pretty well in cleaning the pistons as well.

 

I didn't go with the wide fire-ring headgasket as I am not planning on adding boost.  I got the top end gasket kit which pretty much included all the gaskets and seals I wanted.

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[MLB]

Thanks Joel!

Lots of access now for cleaning everything under the hood.

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[kwikt]

Wow ...my 165,000 mile gasket was alot worse looking than yours. Wise choice.

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[MLB]

I want to rotate the crankshaft manually to inspect cylinder walls. Best way to do that? Add a little oil around pistons?

That is, are there any problems with turning the crankshaft while the head is removed? BSB is still all connected, but of course the timing belt is hanging in midair where the cam sprocket used to be.

By the way I had oil buildup inside the intake manifold again, which Pete said was normal but he and others have made a catch can at the hose that returns to the TB, and then blocked off the TB port. Any of you guys do that?

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[Scott Collins]

Hello,

 

Nice work pulling the head.  I did that a few years back and used scotch brite pads and brake clean.  I wore rubber gloves

and was careful not to get that really toxic stuff all over everything.  It took many hours to get the surfaces completely smooth and clean.  When Pete came by to pick up my head, he was suprised at how clean I got everything.  I took that as a huge compliment.

 

Pete handled freshening the head and also took the intake and cleaned that and the valve cover gasket.  When I got everything back it was just awesome.  Clean and looking like new.   I used a Widefire head gasket and everything worked out great. 

 

I recommend one thing in particular - BE REALLY CAREFUL with the vacuum lines and the AOS (Air Oil Seperator).  There is a little nipple on the top of the AOS where the vacuum line attaches - I managed to snap it off trying to pull the vacuum line out.  Max from Provost was able to get it repaired, thanfully, because you can't buy a new one. 

 

With Pete advising I felt I had someone who could verify my steps and take care of the shop work.  And he helped me time the car when we got the belts back on.  (You can rotate the crank - no worries.)  He could not have been more helpful.  Wish I still had the car but it was a great experience.  There should be a thread somewhere about the project, which also included water pump replacement and every seal and gasket on the top end as well as the oil filter housing and the external oil cooler. 

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

Indeed no worries rotating the crank , just get some paper towels dry and clean on top of the pistons , when it is al dry get your vacuum cleaner out and suck all loose bits of the top of the pistons .

Then there is no change you wil scrach anything .

I would not use oil , you only make things sticky for dirt etc .

And cover the the blok with paper towels or a cloth so it keeps clean and nothing can fall in there when working arround the engine .

 

Nothing worse than looking for a nut or somthing and thinking it might have found it's way in the engine  .

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[MLB]

So nobody is using a catch can to keep oil out of the intake? It must not be much of a problem. I will plan on leaving that connected.

Thanks for the replies!

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[flash]

that will not pass emissions tests in any state that has them.

 

if the engine is running right, a catch can is not necessary.  that is typically an old school trick you have to use when you are running too fat in the fuel mix, or your motor is tired.  i did it years ago with the mgb.  

 

the problem with running fat when you are running the recirculation circuit is that the rings don't get as good of a seal, and extra fuel washes the oil into the cylinders back to the intake, and creates smoke.  the smoke catches the eyes of the stewards, and you get black-flagged.  a catch can often interrupts that process.  because the fuel washes away the oil, valve guides and things wear out faster, and most track guys don't want to tear their head down twice a year.  that "patch" buys them some time.  definitely not a perfect solution, and better tuning is the right answer, but it does keep you on the track for longer, though it usually leads to an earlier rebuild.

 

if the top end is done right (fresh guides, etc) and your rings are still sealing well, you should not have any oil accumulating in the intake.

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[MLB]

Hi all, today is a good day as I have a whole weekend to work on the car, and I'm finally re-installing the cylinder head. Weather is great here now too!

Got the valves and surfaces all cleaned, to my satisfaction at least.

Upon removal of the cellophane from the new WideFire head gasket I notice that its covered with a thin slightly tacky film.

Should I remove that with alcohol or mineral spirits or dont worry be happy and just put it back together?

Thanks!

 

   

 

   

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[MLB]

Oh, and the pistons cleaned up nice too, but man that was a lot of tedious work, in the cold winter garage.

 

   

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[Bulti]

Looks good!

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[williamoss]

You East Coaster's are so lucky to be able to have Pete close by to help on your projects. Living in Portland Oregon we are not so lucky. I am glad to have found a good mechanic. Problem is he is my age 67 so how much longer will he work?

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[MLB]

Here's a helpful tip that makes it easier to torque the head, if you're not a big strong muscle man -- remove the radiator for a "front row" seat!

 

   

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[unknown4u]

I suppose no airco in that car....

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[ds968]

Ha , reminiscent of many American cars of the 60s and early 70s ; if you needed to work on the engine you simply climbed inside the engine bay, stood up in any of the four sides of the engine with a screwdriver and a crescent wrench and that was about as much effort as any job took.

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[MLB]

I have A/C compressor, but its not in the way for standing in the middle

i guess i should clarify that the crank pulley (and all belts) is off for belt change as well.

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[MLB]

Would someone kindly show or describe how/where this bracket is mounted behind the engine?

I forgot to take a picture during disassembly...

 

   

 

Thanks,

--michael

 

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[PorscheG96]

You probably figured it out already, but that bracket mounts to the rear of the cylinder head, just below the #4 intake port. You can see one of the mounting holes on the rear coolant jacket block-off with a 928 PN [the head casting is re-used for right bank of 928 V8 and orients where the front coolant neck would be located].

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