[wildcat]

_{I like Wildcat's solution. Can I install the $2,000 Ferrari MAF to replace the $1,000 Porsche part. Hidden bling}

 

I just want to keep the Prancing horses Prancing... (The TR, The F-50 etc all use the same one...)

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[mti88m3]

I'm in the same boat as the original post.  Hesitation/stumbling under load, then it'll catch and accelerate well.  Tried cleaning the MAF with MAF specific cleaner, didn't help.  Unplugged the MAF and the car is suddenly much more drivable.  Ordered a replacement Volvo unit that I just installed.  I unhooked the battery for a minute, and took a little drive.  It's a little better than the old MAF, but still not as good as no MAF.  How long should it take the DME to recalibrate?  

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[Waylander]

Sounds like you might have some other issues too


I would get your multi meter out and a copy of the workshop manual and check a few voltages and resistances


It could be a million things right now not just the MAF, the TPS could be faulty, bad values getting to the ecu, faulty ecu, the list goes on


Have you done the blink test to see if there any codes

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[mti88m3]

How do I do the blink test?

 

I did a search, and the instructions I found said to turn the key to the on position, and hold the gas to the floor for 3 seconds and the check engine light should start to flash, but that didn't work for me.

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[Kim]

Is your car a US car?  if not it may not have that capability. The on position is not the accessory position.  It is the next position.  All the dash lights should come on in the "on" position. 

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[mti88m3]

I would assume it's a US model, how would I tell?  When I tried, I turned the key to the position that lit up the dash, let the radio turn on, the blower motor run, etc.

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[Waylander]

You need to hold it down till the ECL flashes

Its in the manual, but it was only USA cars that did this trick, although I have wired it in and enabled it in my ROW car


The car will have a build sticker in the boot floor, and the C number will have the country code mine is C16= UK car


You need to remove power from the car for at least 5 mins to clear some of the ecu, not all settings and faults are cleared by powering off


Do you know if it has an after market chip installed?

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[unknown4u]

If the ecu goes not in to flashmode you can always connect a bulb in the 19 pins connector. Thats a typical solution for cars who do not gave the bulb include the wire installed in the dashboard. If you have installed the external bulb you hold the pedal to the metal again and see the bulb go into flasmode.

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[unknown4u]

I thought pin 15 is the one that must be connected with a dashbulb.

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[mti88m3]

You need to hold it down till the ECL flashes

Its in the manual, but it was only USA cars that did this trick, although I have wired it in and enabled it in my ROW car


The car will have a build sticker in the boot floor, and the C number will have the country code mine is C16= UK car


You need to remove power from the car for at least 5 mins to clear some of the ecu, not all settings and faults are cleared by powering off


Do you know if it has an after market chip installed?

 

Looks like mine is a US car: C02 - I'm unsure on whether or not it has an aftermarket chip.

 

I left the battery unhooked for a full 5 minutes.  Started it, it died, started again, continued running but hunting for idle.  I left it alone for 10 minutes and the idle smoothed up.  It's better than on the old MAF now, but not perfect.

 

I'll retry the blink test later, and maybe with unknown4u's suggestion if I have to.

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[Waylander]

No smooth idle could be a broken ICV or gummed up

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[94SilverCab]

Too many things to even guess, Hall Sensor?

 

Hmmm...

 

Jay

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[mti88m3]

All seemed well after a couple of drives... it was driving along great until it suddenly wouldn’t take throttle, like the pedal wasn’t connected to anything. It died and now it doesn’t want to start.


So, does that mean my TPS is bad?


And where would I find the instructions for wiring a blink test light? I searched but didn’t see anything for our cars.

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[Waylander]

Crank sensor, when you turn the key to start does the tacho needle bounce, if not then its a good chance the crank sensor is duff


If your car is a USA car then when you turn the key to position two then the engine check light should illuminate, at that point holding the loud pedal to the floor until the light flashes should start the blink sequence



If not the TPS is not sensing WOT (wide open throttle), and not sending the ecu into self check mode

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[mti88m3]

Crank sensor, when you turn the key to start does the tacho needle bounce, if not then its a good chance the crank sensor is duff


If your car is a USA car then when you turn the key to position two then the engine check light should illuminate, at that point holding the loud pedal to the floor until the light flashes should start the blink sequence



If not the TPS is not sensing WOT (wide open throttle), and not sending the ecu into self check mode

 

Replaced the TPS, no change.  The tach needle does bounce when I turn it over, so probably not the crank position sensor.  I read elsewhere that the throttle cable may not be tight preventing full throttle, so I may need to try holding the throttle open at the throttle body to get the blink test to work.  I'll be trying that as soon as I can get an extra set of hands to help out.

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[unknown4u]

Do you have a spark? Is the hall sender working well no cracked connector above the hcv.?

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[Waylander]

Hall sensor will not stop it starting


With the Hall (cam) sensor failed the ecu changes from sequencial injection to all firing at the same time and ignition timing is retarded by 5-10 degrees


Believe it or not the car will also run with no MAF connected and with no ICV


not very well but it will run

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[968workaholic]

I would bet your fuel pump quit, or the DME relay

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[az968]

DME relay is a very inexpensive spare part to carry in your car.  It would be simple to swap them out and see what happens.

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[mti88m3]

I swapped the DME relay, no change.

 

Hall sensor will not stop it starting


With the Hall (cam) sensor failed the ecu changes from sequencial injection to all firing at the same time and ignition timing is retarded by 5-10 degrees


Believe it or not the car will also run with no MAF connected and with no ICV


not very well but it will run

 

I finally got the blink test to work.  The throttle cable was a touch loose, so full throttle in the car didn't translate to fully open at the throttle body.  I have one code 1-1-3-4, for Hall Signal.  So is that the Crank Position Sensor, or the Cam Position Sensor?

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