lol - all this broo-ha-ha over belt tension. i think you guys are over-thinking this. the window is pretty wide. it's just not that critical, until you get it too tight.
maybe i should have made the belt guard so that it stood farther away from the belt. that way you could leave it pretty loose and still not smack the thing.
if your alternator isn't slipping, it's not too loose. that will slip long before the sc, and you'll hear it down at lower rpms when you nail it, just like you would on a normally aspirated car.
boost loss does NOT necessarily mean belt slip. boost can find its way out any leaking item, and can even hold all the way up to the point where it leaks, depending on which thing is leaking. valve guides and seals are a big one. the oil coating will hold a seal up to a point. then it will blow out and leak boost. the tiniest of gap or misfit of a hose can do it too. i had a temp wire slipped under a hose and into the intake. i had the clamp REALLY tight. i was still losing over a half pound of boost. same goes if you have the clamp riding on the ridges or bumps on the fittings. they need to be fully past those.
i have yet to have a belt slip and cause boost loss. i'm not even sure i can force it to happen. there is just too much wrap on a fairly large pulley, with plenty of grooves for this boost level, with short distances from there to the next pulley. we have more tension on this belt than any self tensioning device would provide, and the belt doesn't slip with those on any other kit that is similarly set up.
94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating
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