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Ignition Coil Recommendations
#1

What's the best ignition coil for these?  It looks like the Brazilian silver Bosch coils are the recommended replacements, but they're trash.  I didn't believe it myself, so I bought one for my 911 and it lasted me less than 200 miles.  I know in 911 circles people will use the black MSD 8222 as a reliable replacement, is there a similar replacement for our 968s?

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#2

I would find a Black Body Bosch 0 221 118 322, which is the original,

 

a fellow 968 owner bought one of those silver body jobs lasted 2 weeks and left him stranded on a motorway for two hours

 

they don't go wrong very often,

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#3

Bandit posted these suggestions years ago, perhaps they are still good suggestions

 

Ignition Coil: Bosch 00055
Ignition Rotor: Bosch 04185
Ignition Cap: Bosch 03213

Throttle Position Switch: Bosch 0280122001      

 

Here's a stock one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-BOSCH-PORSC....l4275.c10
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#4

Awesome, thanks so much guys!
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#5

You should consider the genuine article; if the factory version (assuming your original went bad) lasted two decades, it'd be worth the extra $70 for peace of mind. The part number is 944 602 115 00, same for the 944. The cheapest one I found was from Sunset Porsche; lists for $151.87 (originally $232.69). If you're a Porsche Club member, they'll probably lob off an extra 10%.

 

Here's the link to Sunset's page:

 

https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oem-p...4460211500

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#6

the bosch super blue coil works well too, though it is a bit small in the clamp, so you have to wrap something around it to fill the gap.  i sent one to banditsc.  if he still has it, he might sell it.

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#7

Glad to read this thread, it may be the answer to my problem, which continued to get worse this past driving season, especially in cool or damp weather :

Car would stall at the first stop sign in my neighborhood after coldstart. I had to crank it for many seconds with foot to the floor to finally get it going again. Once she's warmed up the issue goes away.

Could this be an ignition coil going bad?

Thanks for the part number Waylander, $59 Rockauto
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#8

Fuel pump check valve?
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#9

Quote:Glad to read this thread, it may be the answer to my problem, which continued to get worse this past driving season, especially in cool or damp weather :

Car would stall at the first stop sign in my neighborhood after coldstart. I had to crank it for many seconds with foot to the floor to finally get it going again. Once she's warmed up the issue goes away.

Could this be an ignition coil going bad?

Thanks for the part number Waylander, $59 Rockauto


This is exactly what's happening to my car. The fuel check valve has been replaced , so it's not that, as has the temp sensor , so it's not that , as had the ICV, so it's not that, as has the O2 sensor so it's not that , as has the wiring and connectors to the temp sensor and the ICV , so it's not those ...and a vacuum leak test was done which also did not reveal any issues. I guess I'll replace the ignition coil just to see if that solves it .
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#10

Hi Dan, I hope that works for you too !

For 60 bucks I just ordered one from rock auto and will give it a try.


Oh and thanks for ruling out all those other possibilities for me Dan, heh heh. ;0)
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#11

Quote:Hi Dan, I hope that works for you too !

For 60 bucks I just ordered one from rock auto and will give it a try.

Oh and thanks for ruling out all those other possibilities for me Dan, heh heh. ;0)
No problem, that's essentially my key contribution to this forum ; offering the experiences with a car which is the epitome of an expanded Murphy's Law : " if anything can go wrong, it probably has, or will .. " .
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#12

In cold weather cars need extra fuel to keep running. The cold start cycle from ECU only last 30 seconds then returns to normal driving tune. You may be just in between these two driving conditions. 

You car may just run out of fuel. Think of turning off choke too soon. (Old guys)

I've tried to modify the cold start enrichment timing but wasn't able to break codes.

If condition persists, try warming up for 2-3 minutes before driving to see if you can repeat problem. 

BTW, I'm Back

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#13

good to see you Pete.

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#14

Where did you go?
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#15

I've never seen a coil go bad on 968. I've tried a few to see if there was any performance gain but never found any. Running stock coil on my 300HP engine.
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#16

Good to know, thanks Pete

I knew it was a longshot, but the remaining (wear out items) original equipment on my car keeps steadily failing, so i sometimes just replace the inexpensive stuff.

When we get a midwinter warmup in a couple months (yep, i said "mid-", it's Wisconsin) i will swap the coil and go for a drive.

Dan let us know when you swap yours...
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#17

Quote:Dan let us know when you swap yours...

Procrastinating a bit on that ..my mechanics buddy tested the coil's current output ( I may be using the wrong terminology here, I think that's what he said he was doing ) and it's perfectly fine so he doubts it's that . Also the Durametric showed every single component that it reads to be functioning without faults , so it's something that the computer can't pick up - it's possible the ICV is still not opening all the way but just enough not to register it as a fault code, or the smoke test somehow missed a small vacuum leak , so he's going to do some more digging around / trouble shooting . And sorry , in an earlier post I mentioned that the ICV was replaced ; it was actually only removed , cleaned ( even though it was pretty clean ) and manually tested to determine if it opens / closes easuly within the set tolerances , and placed back , so I guess it was RE-placed , lol, just not replaced..with a new one . So by virtue of appearing to function well, although unliklely to be the culprit , it's not entirely out of the realm of possibility.
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#18

Quote:I've never seen a coil go bad on 968. I've tried a few to see if there was any performance gain but never found any. Running stock coil on my 300HP engine.
 

Mine looked weathered, and I was doing a full tune-up to hopefully fix an issue on my project car.  Sadly, the tune-up didn't help.  It wants to hesitate/miss while maintaining speed or when you start to accelerate, but then it catches and can accelerate quickly.
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#19

Quote: 

Mine looked weathered, and I was doing a full tune-up to hopefully fix an issue on my project car.  Sadly, the tune-up didn't help.  It wants to hesitate/miss while maintaining speed or when you start to accelerate, but then it catches and can accelerate quickly.
that sounds like the effect of a dirty MAF, 

 

but you need to be really careful handling the MAF or even attempting to clean it,

It was only used on the RS2 and the 968 so replacement is very expensive, exchange from Porsche only at about $750
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#20

Quote:that sounds like the effect of a dirty MAF, 

 

but you need to be really careful handling the MAF or even attempting to clean it,

It was only used on the RS2 and the 968 so replacement is very expensive, exchange from Porsche only at about $750
 

Thanks Waylander, I'll get some MAF cleaner and check it out!  
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