[Cloud9...68]

I'd love to remove the bumpers from my soon-to-be mostly track car to get rid of a bunch of dead weight off the extreme ends, but the tow hook's threaded insertion piece bolts to the front bumper. Has anyone ever relocated their tow hook insertion piece (not sure of the correct term for the hunk of aluminum the tow hook threads into) to someplace other than the bumper? It seems like it should be possible to attach it to the left side of the right bumper mount (I can't attach it to the front of the mount, because it's too close to the turn signal light assembly), and then drill a hole in the bumper cover (which I'd cap when not at the track). I'm inclined to just go ahead and remove the bumper, since it's going to be a long time before I actually race the car, and figure something out with all the hardware off the car, but I was just wondering if anybody has ever done this. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:

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[pmason]

You might want to look at http://www.rennenmetal.com they have a number of solutions that might work for you. On my 911 I put FG bumpers on and the tow loops are mounted to the bumper shock mounts like you are describing but mine was not the threaded kind.

You could look at Rennline I know they have something that replaces the bumper shock on a 911 with the threaded insert, not sure it would be the same size or not.

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[flash]

i removed my bumper a long time ago. i have a design for a tow hook, but haven't made it yet

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[Cloud9...68]

pmason,



Thanks; I'll contact rennenmetal, and send them the same picture I attached to my post here. Looks like they do this stuff for a living, so hopefully they have something that will work for me. I can't be the first 968 or 944 (I assume the 944 uses a similar front tow hook, but don't know for sure) owner who has run into this.



Flash,



This is way down on my priority list; I just want to have some level of confidence that I can come up with some sort of tow hook mounting apparatus after I've removed my front bumper so I don't have to put the bumper back on when it comes time to needing the tow hook, so if you have plans of fabricating something say within the next year or so, great. Otherwise, hopefully rennenmetal or somebody else can come up with something that will work.



Meantime, if somebody has already come up with a solution, please let me know. Thanks.

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[flash]

no worries. i'll finally get to it when i put the car in the air this winter to do the splitter

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[Cloud9...68]

That works out great. Thanks.

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[DaveN]

OT, Bob, no front bumper? You removed the Al cross member to save weight? Do you feel that in a front end collision that there is no significant "engine saving" without that piece?

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[Cloud9...68]

<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/popcorn.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[DaveN]

Funny Cloud !

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[flash]

the bumper is a 5mph bumper. that means that it is designed to prevent damage up to 5mph. after that, it's benefits are dubious at best. in most front end collisions in have seen in this car, the bumper has actually transferred impact from one side to the other, bending both frame rails, and caused the car to have to be totaled. this is common with a unibody car, where there is no real reference point for the body shop.



as for the engine itself, no, not worried about that.



this is no way is to be misread into a recommendation to remove your bumper. it may violate a number of laws, and may easily mess with your insurance.

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[Cloud9...68]

The racing sanctioning bodies give bumper removal mixed blessings as well. If I remember right, PCA forbids it, NASA doesn't care, and I can't remember what SCCA says. But my immediate goal is to transform my car into one that will put the widest possible grin on my face at the track, and cutting as much weight out of it as possible is a major step toward that goal.

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[DaveN]

I'll leave well enough alone. I do notice, without <acronym title='Limited Slip Differential'>LSD</acronym>, that my rear is definitely getting lighter than my front. No rear seat or spare tire and the SC up front has changed my 50/50. Maybe it's time to move the battery to the rear cubby. DS1 kit perhaps?

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[Cloud9...68]

This is definitely off topic, but you've hit on a major challenge with modifying the 968 - it's very easy to take weight out of the rear of the car (remove the rear seat, get rid of the spare tire, tools, and air pump, lighter exhaust, lexan rear hatch, ditch the torsion bars, and remove rear bumper, if you're so inclined), but it's much harder to take it off the front. You can buy a fiberglass hood, but the fit quality tends to be pretty bad. There are (highly gifted and skilled) people who have come up with fixed headlight conversions. Good luck with that. If you're a real masochist, you can delete the AC, but here in central Texas, that's a no-go for sure. Battery relocation has been done, but it isn't a trivial task. Front bumper removal is met with the tow hook challenge. You get the picture. About the most straightforward thing is going with a single mass flywheel, if you don't mind the 2300 rpm rattle. And to make matters worse, some of the most desirable things you can do to the car (supercharger, strut brace, castor block brace) actually ADD weight to the front.



I've been in contact with Higher Connections regarding the battery relocation, and if that doesn't work out, I will at least go with a lightweight battery (who needs cold cranking amps where in never gets, well, cold...). And I am leaning toward getting a fiberglass hood, and living with the fit issues, since it will be primarily a track car, after all. And I would give my next child (OK, at 52, that's not much of an offer...) for a decent fixed headlight conversion. Wish there were an easy way to take weight off the front, and would entertain any suggestions.

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[flash]

the battery relocation "kit" is done. i just need to have enough people to justify making the saddle assemblies. the rest will be a parts list you can get yourself for the same price i pay.



i talked to higher connections, but they haven't as yet stepped up to carry the item.

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[pmason]

This is the opposite problem of the 911, easy to take weight out of the front but hard to take it off the rear. Being that I'm running PCA stock E class the car has to weight 3236 (the pig) I have to put in ~150lbs in after taking the interior out.

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[Cloud9...68]

Yeah, I started working with Robby back in May or so, but haven't heard from him in months, and when I tried emailing him about a week ago, his email address bounced back as no longer valid. I'll try giving him a call, but if I can't get hold of him, count me as 100% committed to this.



One thing - I plan to use a small Braille battery, which I'd like to mount in the right rear wheel well (where the pump and tools go). Does this present any issues with you kit? Thanks.

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[Cloud9...68]

pmason - Wow, that's hefty for a race car. My immediate plan is just to make the car a lot more fun and capable on the track, while keeping one eye on the rule book(s) for when I eventually race it. For now, I have a ton to learn, and a lot of seat time I need to get under my belt (not to mention finding that winning lottery ticket I'm sure I left in one of my pockets <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> ) before I can even think of door-to-door racing. So, I figure one of the best things I can do is take as much weight out of it now, and then add ballast back in if and when I race it.

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[flash]

no issues at all with the kit. you can mount any battery up to and including a 3478 optima (red or yellow top)

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[Lim Yong]

Which location is best for the battery relocation kit? Driver rear or passenger rear?Oh, I am in for this mod.......Thanks Flash

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[pmason]

Cloud, Started out that way with my 84 911, got that down to 2450lbs, fun car, little twitchy, put stupid money into it but didn't want to race it as I have owned that car sense 1988. So I bought a E class prepared 94 968 (should of did that years ago) much better balanced car and easier to drive, was faster in it. I settled for the E class as it is the largest class in the PCA Club Racing. Was thinking about going into NASA the GTS class, nice power to weight class and in the midwest there is a great group of guys in GTS, but opted to stay in PCA for now. But yes look at the PCA/NASA/SCCA rules as you build your car.

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