[saxman]

So I'm hopefully picking up the 968 on Wednesday, and am trying to compile a list of everything I should replace off the bat to ensure plenty of trouble free driving. Let me start out by saying that the car has up to date maintenance, etc, so stuff like belts/rollers need not be on the list.





Here's what I'm thinking...



cap/rotor/plugs/wires

clutch master/slave/stainless line

k&n air filter(might as well do the airbox mod while I'm at it)

fuel filter

dme relay

heater control valve

spark plu gseals(as the one on the car are leaking)

replace all the fluids

clean all the grounds





should I be replacing all the heater hoses(is it paragon or rsbarn that sells the hose kit)?

same with vacuum hoses



run-rite?



any other suggestions?

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[flash]

hoses are a good idea - it was paragon



run rite is a VERY good idea, but i don't know where there is a center near you



complete hydraulic flush - conveneient when doing the clutch hydraulics



complete cooling flush (which is a no brainer when changing hoses)

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[bob blackwell]

Saxman, welcome to the 968 community! Check the maintenance records first and do not replace those things which do not need to be replaced. If the car starts quickly and runs smoothly, there is no need to just replace the distributor cap, rotor, etc. If there are no up-to-date records of the condition of your 968, go ahead and replace fluids & hoses, since these cars are getting past 15 years old now. Save some money on replacing the coolant and do not buy the "extended life anti-freeze". These cars are getting to the point where if the heater control valve does not blow apart and leak all your coolant, the old hoses and/or heater core will. Good luck and many happy miles of enjoyment, Bob Blackwell.

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[94SilverCab]

Power steering hose on the passenger side will almost defimately be leaking.



Caster Blocks are probably shot



Clutch Inspection Port Plug is probably missing and the fork needs to be lubed.



I wish you many miles of happy driving,



Jay

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[flash]

be sure that the coolant is phosphate free

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[saxman]

is there a recommended brand/weight of oil for the engine and tranny?



I suppose the same question goes for the other fluids.



Same question for plugs and such.

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[sasilverbullet]

engine - i run amsoil 5W-40 European Blend Pure Synthetic (Mobil 1 is not 100% pure syn anymore)



Coolant - make sure you use distilled water and a phosphate free coolant.



Many happy smiles of driving! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Anchorman]

I'm sure about distilled water for batteries, but not necessarily for coolant. My understanding is that, because it is pure, distilled water is "corrosive" in that it wants to dissolve minerals (which include metals). "Regular" water already has minerals, so it doesn't "attack" parts that you'd rather not see disappear. So, I've always used regular water with the appropriate coolant (certainly phosphate-free). This was a particular issue in my early Corvette, where special precautions were recommended because of the aluminum radiator.



Thoughts?

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[rhudeboye]

I was in an auto parts store purchasing coolant and as I read various bottles I didn't come across phosphate-free or phosphate labeling anywhere. I then asked the guy at the counter and after looking over 3 different types, he told me that nowadays there all phosphate-free. I ended up buying Prestone 50/50 Prediluted Extended Life, because I noticed on the bottle good for all makes and models including aluminum.

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[saxman]

prediluted coolant? ouch... bet they thought they saw you coming









looks like the purchase of the car may have to hold off a day while I get some paperwork sorted out

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[Cloud9...68]

When you do the coolant flush, make sure you bleed ALL the air out. Use a hand-pump cooling system pressurizer, which Autozone lets you borrow for free. Bleed as much air out as you can, then take it for a long spin with the heater going full blast, let it cool off, then bleed it again. I though I had initially gotten all the air out of mine, but I noticed the engine running hot a couple of months later, so I bled it again, and found there was quite a bit of air left in the system. It runs very cool now.



Also, unless you're seeing ground-related issues, such as "fluttering" gauge needles, you might want to hold off cleaning the grounds. I can't remember how many this car has, but I think it's around a dozen, and many of them are not very accessible. I would prioritize other stuff on your list first. And above all, congrats on the car!

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[saxman]

well, no reason I have to clean all of the grounds at the same time... Just figured while I was in there, if I come across one, it'd be a good chance to clean it up.

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[rhudeboye]

[quote name='saxman' post='39108' date='Jul 30 2007, 09:40 AM']prediluted coolant? ouch... bet they thought they saw you coming[/quote]



I certainly felt like i should only pay for half the bottle as i was only getting 50% coolant. But the piece of mind far out weighed the extra $3 bucks spent.

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[Tom in Austin]

I'd add change all the vaccum hoses, put in a fresh fill of Mobil 1 or other synthetic trans fluid (assuming you have a 6-spd), and re-pack/adjust front wheel bearings.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='Tom in Austin' post='39237' date='Aug 1 2007, 09:42 AM']...and re-pack/adjust front wheel bearings.[/quote]

How difficult is that to do? My car's making a noise coming from the front left when backing up and the wheel turned (I think it's worse when the wheel is turned left), which I'm guessing might be the bearing. Is this a job for the do-it-yourselfer, or do you need special tools? In all my years of working on cars, for some reason I've never repacked wheel bearings...

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[flash]

not a tough job at all - you do need a decent drift to get the race out, and the adjustment instructions are a bit vague, but all in all pretty normal

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[JWahlsten]

Don't use a drift to get the race out on these cars. You need to heat the hub to approx. 200 degrees to expand it and the race will pretty much fall out. If you use a drift, it will damage the tolerances on the press fit of the race. Same for insertion. Freezing the race helps on the way in as well.

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[flash]

who told you that?



in some 30 years of doing bearings every workshop manual has said the same thing (to use a drift) - i have never had a problem using a drift (brass of course) - tap tap tap, a little here, a little over there, and out she comes



i've used the heating thing for press fit items, like ring gears, but never even heard of issues with bearing races needing it - i'm sure it would work, but i'd be more concerned with harmful vapors

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[JWahlsten]

Actually it's in the 944 workshop manuals. Since Porsche doesn't see fit to include stuff that doesn't change it won't likely be in the 968 manuals. The races in the 944 and 968 hubs are press fit into the aluminum hubs by using heat to expand the hub. I know the wife won't be happy about using the oven though...



There are a lot of guys who've replaced hubs on track cars after having done just what you're saying.



I'll find the reference in the manuals when I get home. I'm currently stuck NJ.

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[flash]

i found it - funniest thing i've ever seen - nice way to sell expensive tools



i suppose it is a good way to prevent marring, but i changed mine and they popped right out like every other hub has - the key was tap tap tap, a little at a time, working around - if you are impatient, i can see how it would be easy to screw up, so i guess it is the safe way to do it



lol - having the conversation about using the oven for the car is not going to happen around here though

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