[saxman]

so found the first issue I want to address with this car... the loose steering which seems to be somewhat common. From the sounds of other threads I've read, it sounds somewhat common(the whole turn to the left, wheel stays slightly to the left, etc).



I'm sure part of it is that I'm coming from a honda with extremeley precise steering so it really sticks out to me.





Also, the ebrake seems like it could use an adjustment.



Only other issue I noticed coming home was an occasional whistle that would start right at about 80 mph. I think it's coming from the rear hatch.

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[FRporscheman]

Again, congrats on getting a 968!



The hatch and the sunroof are both areas that let a lot of noise through. Check to see if your hatch is closing all the way - maybe you can adjust the latch pins to keep the hatch closed tighter. Also check the upper edge to see if the glass has separated from the frame.



Once you do all the stuff you listed above, it might be a good idea to lube some random joints and latches. That's one point most people neglect... Some fresh lube on the door/hood/hatch latches, door handle mechanisms, locks, etc.



In the summer, I use valvoline 20w-50 and my mom uses valvoline synthetic 20w-50. I know from the 944 world 20w-50 is the way to go. The 968 is a slightly different beast but we haven't had issues, and oil pressure is good.

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[saxman]

I suspect the whistling noise was coming from the hatch... it is separated a bit... I'll need to deal with that eventually.





Is 20w-50 the normal? I thought 15w-50 was a bit more common.

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[PorscheDude]

One more simple thing to do would be clean all the water drains in the body. They collect alot of debris over the years which in turn holds lots moisture.

When I cleaned mine out I used long zip ties, wire hangers and water.

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[JWahlsten]

[quote name='flash' post='39336' date='Aug 2 2007, 09:33 PM']i found it - funniest thing i've ever seen - nice way to sell expensive tools



i suppose it is a good way to prevent marring, but i changed mine and they popped right out like every other hub has - the key was tap tap tap, a little at a time, working around - if you are impatient, i can see how it would be easy to screw up, so i guess it is the safe way to do it



lol - having the conversation about using the oven for the car is not going to happen around here though[/quote]





So, you think you won't do any damage to the hub by not heating it? I was told by the head dealer tech who is also a club racer and a friend that you change the tolerances in the hub by using a drift. Maybe they're just being paranoid, but until I hear different I'll use heat.



Oh and my wife would have a COW if I stuck car parts in the oven. So, I use the old toaster oven <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Hi,



I changed the rear wheel bearing on my 944T S using the same method: bearing in the deep freezer and heating the the rear arm. Works verry well.

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[flash]

as a mechanical engineer, i can tell you that the tolerances won't change unless you remove material - metal does not stretch like that unless you heat it - now, if filings come out, or you marr the wall, that's different



anyway, i've never had this happen, and i've changed about 200 bearings on other cars, and 2 sets on these



but, i'm sure the method works well, and is the indicated method



lol - i may have to buy a toaster oven

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[968rz]

To add something to the bearing race removale, as a (former)professional auto tech I have done hundreds of bearings and knocking them out with a drift punch will NOT hurt the hub (as long as thats not what your hitting). I just repacked my fronts last week and there are small indents in the center of the hub to allow the punch to sit right against the race edge for just this reason so go ahead and hit it.

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[Cloud9...68]

While this thread is still on the subject of wheel bearing replacement, for those of you advocating the "heat to remove, freeze to install" method, what do you use to heat the hub to 200 degrees? Thanks.

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[JWahlsten]

Any type of oven you can use to get the hub to 250-300F. I use a toaster oven. Like Flash and I both stated earlier, putting parts in the oven in the kitchen is not a way to keep wedded bliss...



Putting the race in any freezer for at least 30 minutes, but preferrably overnight will do fine.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='JWahlsten' post='39422' date='Aug 4 2007, 03:34 PM']Any type of oven you can use to get the hub to 250-300F. I use a toaster oven. Like Flash and I both stated earlier, putting parts in the oven in the kitchen is not a way to keep wedded bliss...[/quote]

Ah, so you're removing the hub to get the bearing out. Didn't catch that. I though you were using some type of heat gun. As I said, for whatever reason, I've never had bearing problems on any of my previous cars, so I've never had the pleasure of removing one. Thanks.

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[JWahlsten]

Glad to help...If you track you should be checking and changing your wheel bearings regularly.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='JWahlsten' post='39427' date='Aug 4 2007, 04:39 PM']Glad to help...If you track you should be checking and changing your wheel bearings regularly.[/quote]



Yep, just as soon as my shoulder heals up (had arthroscopic surgery on 7/24 to correct several long-standing problems), maybe next weekend. As it gets closer, I have questions about the adjustment procedure as well...

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[saxman]

I definitely may be doing a front bearing soon, so this has all been very useful info.



Also thinking of refreshing the brakes... the left front one is squeaking on occasion, and I'm feeling a little shuddering coming from the right front(could this be the wheel bearing?) during braking.



Considering just replacing all the pads, rotors, and lines... starting fresh







on a side note, found a receipt for a pinion bearing replacement on the car when it had 27,000 miles on it... add it to the list

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[JWahlsten]

Having the ring and pinion done is very good $$$ news...



The squealing and shuddering is likely glazed pads or pad transfer. It doesn't sound like a bearing. Bad ball joints can shudder a bit as well, so check those.

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[saxman]

going through the records, I'm seeing a front rotor replacement about 4k miles ago, along with pads and such, and then a few thousand miles later a notation talking about a squeaking coming from the brakes being a result of a lip on the rear brake rotors, and advisement to replace those. A lip can be felt there too, so seems a likely culprit.



The pads were replaced at the same time, but I'm tempted to replace them again... get some ultimates in there, replace the brake lines, and rear rotors, then bleed the whole system.

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[saxman]

well, just met up with a guy from rennlist to take a indepth look at the car...



a lot of the stuff I thought I was going to need doing really won't be needed after inspecting and referencing the receipts...



inspected the belts... the balance belt was extremely loose. Chris helped tighten that up to spec.



The steering issue I'm having is definitely a result of the bushing needing replaced. It's the drive side bushing that holds the rack... I'll just replace them both.



I'm being tempted into a set of konis as well.

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[saxman]

well, just ordered a bunch of stuff for the car, tune up stuff, a new dme relay(I think mine is on its way out), a set of konis, and a handful of bushings that need replacement

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