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M030 Brakes - What does it take to update and is it worth it
#21

i hate the phrase "never had a problem". it usually just means the person just doesn't know the difference. it's generally the lack of knowledge of the difference between abrasive friction and adherent friction, and how that relates to pad deposits and crystalline bonds.



there is plenty of information out there about how pads and rotors bed in to each other. if you read enough about it, it will clearly explain that swapping pads back and forth is not a good idea. even surfacing the rotor will not cure the problem. the bottom line is that when you switch pads to another type, you must switch rotors. the stoptech site is great, and this one is actually in their FAQ section, though you have to dig for it a bit.



plenty of people cheap out and swap pads back and forth, but that does not make it right, and their brakes do not perform as well or last as long as they could if they had done it right.
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"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#22

Quality according to Juran's definition is “fitness for use” which is from the viewpoint of the customer. Since fit for use can be widely variant among individuals there is no strict right or wrong way to do things. Maybe technically better or worse, but that is not the criteria that everyone uses. Many other factors come into play. Ideally one would have different rotors for street, autox, and track because of some of the reasons mentioned above. But, because fitness for use is defined by the end user, one can expect this will not always be the case, and yet there will still be completely satisfied customers. So, each of us can express our opinion for consideration by Paul, but only he knows if "it is worth it", which was Paul's orig. question of the post.
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#23

yeah - after all - people drive camrys, and think that's just fine.



you can rationalize anything. that being said, if you only wanted limited performance, why bother with a performance car?



peter, who posed the original question, not paul, asked about M030 brakes. i think we have adequately addressed and answered that question.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#24

Flash, you crack me up. I agree that running two different compounds on the same rotors is not ideal. However, for those who track their car 1, 2 or 3 weekends a year, I think it's a great compromise. When I do it, I put the track pads on 3-6 days before the event, and after the event, do some 70-0 MPH stops a week or so later to clean them up. There are deposits from each pad on the rotor.



A compromise it is, says Master Yoda.
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#25

been there done that. ugly chatter most of the time. even simple pad slaps using the same kind of pad result in chatter almost half the time. surfacing the rotor can remove some of the deposits, as can scuffing them, but it won't fix everything. it certainly does not fix the loss in stopping power, which can be easily measured. i'd be willing to bet though that almost nobody else on this site has ever done any braking measurements.



definitely a compromise, and one i refuse to make. i don't screw around with my brakes. i ask them to stop the car too often. now that i know what i do, i will not ever do a pad slap on this or any car, without full expectation of a braking loss. contemplating that kind of expectation on a performance car seems illogical.



again, there is plenty of information out there on this. it's easy to find.



back on topic:



properly installed and bedded, the stock brakes are more than sufficient for DE use with momentum driving. i have no need for M030 brakes.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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