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DIY Oil Change for New Owners
#1

Anyone have DIY instructions for new owner? Oil filter has obviously got some tricks in-store. Or a link to a DIY? Thanks.
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#2

just unscrew it and try to catch the oil that's dripping out, but first;

Run your engine or ride your car to warm up the oil a bit, so it flows out easier (might not be necesary where you live)

Unscrew the drainplug underneath the engine and catch the oil.

Then wait for the filter to cool down a little, so not to burn you fingers and then drag me to court  :ninja:

 

When you place the new filter apply some oil on the seal and hand tighten it.

Fill up the needed amount of oil in the engine and done.

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#3

Quote:just unscrew it and try to catch the oil that's dripping out, but first;

Run your engine or ride your car to warm up the oil a bit, so it flows out easier (might not be necesary where you live)

Unscrew the drainplug underneath the engine and catch the oil.

Then wait for the filter to cool down a little, so not to burn you fingers and then drag me to court  :ninja:

 

When you place the new filter apply some oil on the seal and hand tighten it.

Fill up the needed amount of oil in the engine and done.
 

Also worth nothing that given the odd oil filter location, removal of the airbox surround, airbox itself, and a couple of other parts in the way will make the filter change go a LOT easier (and may well be "required").    I used a couple of shop towels around the filter to catch the oil coming out of it as it'll likely make a significant mess otherwise.
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#4

Or you can get a Canton filter and never leak oil on the engine again. I have gone back to the original look, let me know if you are interested in the Canton filter.

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#5

Quote:Or you can get a Canton filter and never leak oil on the engine again. I have gone back to the original look, let me know if you are interested in the Canton filter.

I have the Canton filter, it makes a world of difference !   Five stars and five thumbs up .   ( except from my mechanic who could only  charge me for no more than 5 minutes worth of labor  Tongue  ) 
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#6

Is it truth or myth that knocking a hole in the top of the filter first will let it drain and eliminate the mess?
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#7

Quote:Is it truth or myth that knocking a hole in the top of the filter first will let it drain and eliminate the mess?
 

I suspect there is some truth to it - I've done it before and it does seem to lessen the amount of oil remaining in the filter (although you will still have some).    


However, make VERY sure the filter comes off (ie, loosen it a turn or so first) as you'll be in a world of hurt if you punch a hole in it then can't get it off for some reason.
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#8

They used to punch holes in it just to get it off, sometimes they can be very tight on the seal.

Su punch something long through it and you have an arm to try and move it.

 

The oil in there will stay in there anyway.

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#9

I am curious about the comments regarding punching a hole in the filter.  I can see how this could allow air into the filter, so the trapped oil could drain down and out?  The part I do not understand is where the oil could drain to?  On the inlet side, it would need to drain back through the oil cooler (some resistance to flow), and then back through the oil pump (lots of resistance).  On the outlet side, I imagine that it could drain down past the bearings, but I am guessing this would be slow, as the fit on the bearings is tight, and the pressure pushing the oil through is small, as there is only a small vertical drop creating the pressure.  If anyone has experience whether this is effective in draining out the oil from inside the filter, I would be very interested to hear about this?  

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#10

Quote:Is it truth or myth that knocking a hole in the top of the filter first will let it drain and eliminate the mess?



Yes it is.


Why?


If you punch a hole in the top you can open the rubber valve witch will drain the filter. The oil inside will leak out to the oilpan. You can hear it when it startet to flow back. After a while you lose the filter an you will have a minimum of oilloss and better less cleaning.
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#11

the rubber valve is to protect the engine for running without oilpressure as without this valve everytime you stop the engine the filter drains automatically. With this valve the pressure builds up in seconds. Without it takes half a minute.
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#12

I never punch a whole in the filter, and never the filter is full with oil anyway.

There is some oil left, but that stays there as well when you punch the hole.


when i unscrew it

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#13

After the punch you have to open the rubber valve by pressing it wirh the screwdriver. Thats the trick. Simple to do.
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#14

Hi guys i made a mistake and took my 92 to local mechanic Sad. He put to much oil in and drained some back out. I always used Mobil 1 5 -30 he used brand? 10-30. Also used Malhe filter this one unknown? My question is should I drive it or go to dealer and redo filter and oil? I only put 500 miles a year on car. Thanks for any response
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#15

That oil is to thin for our old design engines. Porsche and the manual say what spec it should be


Get the correct Porsche classic oil, and the genuine filter is made by Malhe


No anti wear additives in the thin stuff for modern engines
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#16

Mahle is fine...honestly, if you only drive 500 miles/year there's probably no issue.

 

JMHO,

 

Jay

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#17

The filter that come in the box from Porsche is a Mahle, even has the OC part number printed on it


Ferrari use them as standard too
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#18

That so much for the information. He used Manne filter which is ok but I need to change the oil itself. The info in this forum is so helpful
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#19

Mann filters are low quality, I only use them for air and pollen
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#20

I use KN Oil filters on all my vehicles. Have for 30 years. Their filtering medium is far superior to the "paper" based medium in many filters. Those "paper" based filters have a short lifespan and were designed for the times when we can't oil every 3K

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