[Anchorman]

I hope this helps. I had to convert the original web document, through Word, to a PDF, so there may be some formatting glitches. The original file came from Paragon, so it might be worthwhile checking if it (or an update) is still there.

rod bearings.pdf Size: 141.23 KB  Downloads: 79

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[rob76turbo]

Thanks Anchorman!!!

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[Anchorman]

You're welcome. The procedure looks like it's pretty detailed, so I hope it helps. I took a look at the Paragon web site and didn't find anything like this.

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[Spieln968]

I plan to do this, this summer. Few questions and comments.



I believe the torque spec. is different for a 968. Some low torque value (can not remember right now) and an additional 90 degree torque angle.



I think you do not have to remove the intake on a non trubo car.



Do you have to remove the exhaust on a non turbo car?



I think it is best to remove the oil level sensor first.



Can anyone confirm these comments?



Thanks,

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[wonko]

I really appreciate this. I am looking at my first engine "freshening", and I really wanted to tackle the rod bearings at the same time. We have two 968 Firehawks, and I would rather make my mistakes on our parts car than on the race cars.



Thanks again!

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks for the info. Wow, hopefully the job is MUCH less involved on a 968, because Pete quotes something like 4-5 hours for the job, vs the 12 the article states for a 944 turbo (though to be fair, the article does estimate only 6 hours for an NA 944). Any way you slice it, it's a big job, and one that (arguably) requires an alignment, due to the removal of the cross-member.

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[wonko]

Ok... I think I'm following most of this. The only question I have is WHICH plastigauge to get?

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[wonko]

[quote name='wonko' post='52992' date='May 21 2008, 08:10 PM']Ok... I think I'm following most of this. The only question I have is WHICH plastigauge to get?[/quote]



OK, bought some plastigage today, and now I think I understand it.



For those of you who don't know what it is (I hope I wasn't the only one <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Plastigage is a thin filament of maliable material that is made to a precice diamaeter. When you place this in the bearing and torque it down, it squashes it. How flat it squashes tells you how much clearance there is. You take the sleeve it comes in that has a scale on it, compare the width of the plastigage to the scale, and you can tell if you are in specification. Simple.



Additionally, I _now_ understand that you may actually need all three colors of plastigage. As I read it, you would start with the narrowest, if it is too narrow, you would go to the next biggest, and then the same with the thickest. You can't just use the thickest and if it squashes to oblivion assume you are OK because it is just as important to have a minimum gap so oil can get into the bearing as it is to not have it so big that the engine shakes itself apart.



This stuff is probably obvious to a large group of you, but I thought (hoped) that there might be someone else who was having the same questions.

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[FRporscheman]

[quote name='Spieln968' post='51353' date='Apr 23 2008, 07:57 AM']I think you do not have to remove the intake on a non trubo car.



Do you have to remove the exhaust on a non turbo car?[/quote]



On the 968 both manifolds can stay on the car.



Can't one just buy the plastigage that is in the range of spec clearance? Then if a bigger or smaller plastigage is needed, you can forget buying them because you're out of spec anyway.

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[S_Cal968]

Can't one just buy the plastigage that is in the range of spec clearance?

Yes, and make sure to check that's it's fairly new/fresh. One time I bought some old Plastigage and my measurements were off...

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[flash]

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-plasti...clearances.html

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[Spieln968]

[quote name='Cloud9...68' post='52973' date='May 21 2008, 06:36 PM']Thanks for the info. Wow, hopefully the job is MUCH less involved on a 968, because Pete quotes something like 4-5 hours for the job, vs the 12 the article states for a 944 turbo (though to be fair, the article does estimate only 6 hours for an NA 944). Any way you slice it, it's a big job, and one that (arguably) requires an alignment, due to the removal of the cross-member.[/quote]



I actually just did this a few weeks ago. Took me about 12 hours but I work slow and this was my first time. My plastic baffle was cracked to I had to hold up a week while I waited for a new one to arrive. Used zip ties to hold the gasket to the pan and it worked great.



BTW - my car has 150,000 miles and the old bearings looked pretty good and were all well within spec.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='Spieln968' post='56335' date='Jul 15 2008, 01:56 PM']BTW - my car has 150,000 miles and the old bearings looked pretty good and were all well within spec.[/quote]



That's very encouraging. Did you car see much track usage over its 150K miles?

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[Cloud9...68]

This job as described for a 944 turbo looks HUGE! Could someone who has done this recently on their 968 please let us know what steps, besides the removal of the intake manifold(!) can be omitted for the 968? I feel like my rod bearings are on borrowed time, with all the track driving I do, with over 106K on the clock, so I need to do this soon, but this procedure says you have to take off practically everything but the rear emblem to remove the stinkin' oil pan, for crying out loud. I can't believe it has to be anywhere near this complicated. Somebody please tell me I don't have to take a week off work to do this job. Thanks!

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[wonko]

Yes it is that scary, and yes you have to remove all that stuff. Frankly, when it came down to it, I decided I wasn't up to it. This is after re-tubbing a whole car. Frankly it is one thing that having someone else be responsible for the aftermath and the busted knuckles was worth the price of a good shop. Your mileage may vary, but this is nothing like doing a head. While the head is technically challenging, and takes precision, the pan is a big job, with big bolts and tight spaces. Plan on an alignment afterwords, which is really best to have professionally done. I would think that there would be an advantage to having both done at the same place and time.

If you are afraid, you probably should be.

John




<!--quoteo(post=68531:date=Mar 13 2009, 07:07 PM:name=Cloud9...68)-->QUOTE (Cloud9...68 @ Mar 13 2009, 07:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->This job as described for a 944 turbo looks HUGE! Could someone who has done this recently on their 968 please let us know what steps, besides the removal of the intake manifold(!) can be omitted for the 968? I feel like my rod bearings are on borrowed time, with all the track driving I do, with over 106K on the clock, so I need to do this soon, but this procedure says you have to take off practically everything but the rear emblem to remove the stinkin' oil pan, for crying out loud. I can't believe it has to be anywhere near this complicated. Somebody please tell me I don't have to take a week off work to do this job. Thanks!<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

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[Cloud9...68]

Yes, as much as I hate to admit it, having this done professionally makes a lot of sense. At the very least, I'd have to buy an engine hoist, which wipes out part of the financial advantage of doing in myself. I'm probably due for analignment, anyway. I think I'll have a removable cross brace installed, making the job much simpler the next time around. Maybe by then I'll have my dream garage, with a hoist, but until then, you're probably right - this job strikes me as the exact opposite of fun...

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[Cloud9...68]

I'm still debating about tackling this huge job myself, or having it done professionally. Strong rumors of at least a week per quarter off without pay indefinitely are pushing me toward doing it myself, as I'll have plenty of time, and diminishing quantities of money.

Either way I go, for those of you who have done this job, or had it done, what other parts did you replace while the pan was off? Obviously the pan gasket has to be replaced, but checking Paagon's web site, they sell kits which contain a lot of other gaskets besides the pan gasket. I imagine some of these are for the oil return tubes. Speaking of which, I've heard these tend to crack on the 944, but I haven't heard as much about this problem in the 968. What are the other gaskets for?

What about the connecting rod bearing nuts and bolts? Anything else you'd advise changing in the process?

Another question - don't you have to check the rod journal-to-bearing cap clearance using Plastigage before ordering the bearings? Otherwise, how do you now if you need standard, or oversized (thicker) bearings?

Finally, a 3-piece crossmember sounds like great idea to make future bottom end engine work MUCH easier. I know Lindsey Racing makes one for $300, which isn't a bad price. Any other recommendations on these? Thanks.

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[Ryan]

You don't have to use a hoist. Harbor Frieght has a cheap engine support that goes between your hood recesses and supports the engine when the mounts are off. VW/Porsche sells a special tool that looks just like it for the vary same thing but for big$$$.

I would think that if your bearings looked good coming out, then you wouldn't even need to check for oversize bearings w/plastigage. I am no expert though, so don't listen to me. Just thinking out loud.

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[Cloud9...68]

<!--quoteo(post=70595:date=Apr 20 2009, 01:30 PM:name=Ryan)-->QUOTE (Ryan @ Apr 20 2009, 01:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->You don't have to use a hoist. Harbor Frieght has a cheap engine support that goes between your hood recesses and supports the engine when the mounts are off.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Hmmm... Interesting, but I'm having a hard time picturing how this, and how it would support the weight of the engine. What does it rest against? Thanks.

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[rxter]

Working to stop the leaks on my car my mech suggested that we need to replace the oil pan gasket. 6+ hours. "while we are in there we should do the rod bearings (1.5 hrs) and motor mounts (1hr).

In the end we decided to fix the power steering pump as the lead there was making it impossible to distinguish between a leak and PS blow back. I include this here to give you an idea of what my mechanic quoted as hours to do the job.

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