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detailing
#1

this will only reveal how clueless I am about these things, but since I'm among friends in this " support group " <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> I have no fear of asking <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> what's the purpose or benefit of a buffer ( other than leaving swirl marks ) that you could not possibly achieve with hand cleaning and waxing ?



for example if I claybar the car and then hand wax, would I get a better result by using a power buffer instead ? or in addition to, somewhere in that cycle of cleaning and waxing ?



I was thinking of taking the car to a detail place just to have them buff it, and then I add by hand the final coat of wax/ sealant glaze.



Thoughts ?
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#2

If you use a rotary buffer and you don't do it properly, you will create more problems than what you started with. However, trying to polish swirled paint by hand is an exercise in frustration. Personally, I like to use a random orbital as it's pretty much a no brainer.



Detailing process:



1. Wash car

2. Clay car (This will necessitate another washing or rinse depending upon technique) Hand clay only. This is for removing impurities.

3. Polish car (Use the least aggressive polish possible to get the result you want as this step removes paint...)

4. Wax car or apply first finishing coat of acrylic sealant

5. Apply additional layers of sealant or wax.



I prefer sealant to wax as it last longer, but nothing can beat the depth of a GOOD carnuba wax for concours type competition. I prefer racetrack competition, so to each their own.



When I got my car I spent a whole weekend doing this process. It looks great, but takes TIME. If you have more money than time, I'd recommend a professional. They can do it a lot faster, and a good one will do it better.



HTH
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#3

Swirl marks are caused by dirt and contaminants on the paint surface that scratch the surface ever so slightly. Most of this scratching comes when drying a car after washing. Avoid using regular towels as they can and do scratch the paint. Also, when washing, I use a different mitt for the rocker panels and wheels than I do for the rest of the car. Buffing with a light polish will remove these swirl marks. You can achieve the same results with hand application, however it takes a lot more effort. Your best bet if you want results better than the numerous so-called professional detailers, is to purchase a Porter Cable random orbital polisher and some light polish and apply once or twice to the surface after you have completely clayed the surface. Then when you apply the wax, you can be sure you have a completely smooth surface that the wax can protect. My advice, albeit expensive, is to go to griotsgarage.com, and purchase their Porter Cable random orbital and then some Machine Polish 3 and 4. I use 3 first, then follow up with 4. For a few hundred bucks you will have the random orbital and enough supplies for a year or so. Then all you need is to replenish supplies when you run out. They have a video and book that shows you how to do it. Be sure to do a few square feet at a time and wipe the polish off quickly as it is hard to remove when completely dry. I've found hand removal of the polish with microfiber towels is much easier than machine removal. Hope this helps. Oh and if you want my opinion on wax, I still think pure carnuba is the best way to go.
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#4

Zaino Brothers I use these products and their instructions to get a "wet look" show finish.

Good luck <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

Larry
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#5

Just as an FYI... here's a forum site dedicated to detailing: http://autopia.org/forum/index.php



Karl.
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#6

Thanks all,

I'll have to look into the random orbital for the next detailing, so for today's job ( I was thinking of killing some time until the super bowl ) it will just get a good washing. It still has a half-decent shine left from the wax job a couple of months ago and I can live with that for another month or two..



photo from around two years ago when I was trying various waxes.. Zaino, Mother's Gold carnuba, various Meguiar waxes, Klasse, Eagle One nano-wax, NXT ( that one is " reflected " in this photo ) and Rejex. Think I like Rejex better than all of them, but it's too close to call - the differences are not that great, from what I can tell..



   
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#7

Yeah, but Rejex lasts forever once you build up a few coats.
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#8

[quote name='Etnier' post='30570' date='Feb 4 2007, 10:03 AM']Yeah, but Rejex lasts forever once you build up a few coats.[/quote]





yes, it does !



Karl, I don't know how you do it.. you are an Encyclopedia... the Zagat guide to automobile statistics and other resources information...the Library of Congress for vehicles... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#9

I second the consensus here - just to add that you can find a LOT of info about polishing/waxing on www.ppbb.com (boxster board) and at other Porsche forums/sites. Detailing a Porsche is the same across the years - don't listen to the jap/american car detailing sites, our paint is different and has to be cared for differently.



Oh, and yep I'm killing time before the super bowl also! Wash car? Go for another drive? (I've already been for one testing my new tires)



<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#10

[quote name='ds968' post='30568' date='Feb 4 2007, 11:00 AM']( I was thinking of killing some time until the super bowl ) it will just get a good washing.



[Image: attachment.php?thumbnail=2911][/quote]





[quote name='sasilverbullet' post='30572' date='Feb 4 2007, 11:37 AM']Oh, and yep I'm killing time before the super bowl also! Wash car? Go for another drive? (I've already been for one testing my new tires)



<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />[/quote]



Oh to live on the West coast.



Its a cloudy 30 degree day here in the DC area so washing my car is completely out of the question. This cold dry air is great however for turbos.
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#11

I have to second the Porter Cable recommendation as that is the one I have. I got it at Lowe's for a LOT cheaper than Griot's Garage.



As for polishes, I spent a bunch of time on Autopia.org prior to using the Poor Boys stuff. I am very happy with the results.



A good friend of mine swears by Zaino, and his car looks fantastic. I've been using Klasse, but I think it gets a little silvery on top of Black. I am going to try Jeff's Workstatt next.



Talking detailing is like politics. Lots of strong opinions...
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#12

[quote name='JWahlsten' post='30560' date='Feb 4 2007, 11:59 AM']Detailing process:



1. Wash car

2. Clay car (This will necessitate another washing or rinse depending upon technique) Hand clay only. This is for removing impurities.

3. Polish car (Use the least aggressive polish possible to get the result you want as this step removes paint...)

4. Wax car or apply first finishing coat of acrylic sealant

5. Apply additional layers of sealant or wax.[/quote]

On #1 wash with a bit of dawn soap...this will help remove old wax

On #2 don't forget to read up on clay bar'ing, make sure it's well lubricated!

After #2 I noramlly do a hit of P21S Gloss Enhancing Paint Cleanser, then I go with the Zaino Wax process (read up no their web site - http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/mercha...de=APPLICATION)
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