[wiseman]

I noticed I have a drivers side inner VC Boot torn. Based on what I've seen under there, looks like if I take the bolts out of the transaxel which secure the drive shaft, the driveshaft should hang down and allow me to take the boot off. I just need some advice on how to take off the CV Joint to slip on the new boot. Can anybody shed some light?

Its CV Boot and "transaxle". GEEEEZZZ I wish I had "spellcheck".

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[banditsc]

There is a snap ring on the end that holds it on, take it off and you can slip the joint off and replace the boot. http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-01.htm

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[wiseman]

Perfect!!!!! Thanks.

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[Cloud9...68]

Great info - sounds like another useful bit of preventative maintenance, even if there are no symptoms.

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[Scott Collins]

I just did the CV boot replace and also cleaned and repacked the inner driver's side cv joint. Not a fun job - greasy, messy- i dropped the exhaust and pulled the entire axle so I could get the thing on the bench. Ball bearings were good - races good, except for finding some metal shavings in the grease. Not good. Here is what I found:



   





That's the innermost race that slides over the splines on the end of the axle. Do you see the gouge out of the top right? That's where the metal came from. Not having a spare cv joint on hand, I cleaned everything up, repacked it with grease, installed the new boot, and threw everything back together.



How long do I have? Taking bets....

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[Cloud9...68]

Scott,



I'm starting the job of re-packing my CV joints, not because of a known problem, but just as preventative maintenance (a mechanic I know says Porsche recommends doing this every 75,000 miles, and I'm at 115K). Did you manage to get the axle half-shafts off without stripping any of the cheesehead bolts? I stripped two of them, which is the topic of another thread.



Anyway, I have a question: what type of grease did you use to re-pack the CV joints? I suppose I could check the manual, but it probably recommends some Porsche-branded stuff at $3,000/ounce . Oh, and how is yours holding up? Thanks, and you're right, it isn't the most pleasant job, but I've done worse...

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[Cloud9...68]

I have a couple more questions (as usual) about this job. First, in Clarks Garage's DIY, step 9 says to remove the concave washer from the axle shaft, and that channel locks may be necessary to remove it from the shaft. I'm not seeing anything on or near my axle shaft that meets the description of a concave washer. Anybody know what he's referring to, or does this piece not exist on the 968 half-axles?



Second, I noticed that there are two types of grease used in the assembly. The races themselves are coated in a heavy, very smooth, black grease, while the axle splines have a brown grease of some kind. Any idea what types of grease these are, particularly the brown stuff on the splines?



I'm sure I'll have more questions as the job progresses. As an observation, the grease on my CV joints appears to be in excellent condition, and it doesn't look like they've been apart before. Clark's Garage says the grease tends to disappear over time, but there's tons of the stuff left in my races. Of course, I wouldn't have known this without taking them apart, but it looks like I could have gone 200K miles without touching these. Oh, well, I should be good for another 200K when I'm done.

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[Cloud9...68]

Well, I'm going to go with Swepco 101 Moly grease for the CV joints - it's what Pelican recommends, and it sounds like good stuff. I figure I can't go wrong with Swepco. Unfortunately I have to order it, which means I can't finish the CV joint re-packing project this weekend.



I never did figure out what the concave washer that Clark's Garage is referring to is, but they seem to have something to do with the CV boots, and since mine are in perfect condition, and they look like a royal pain to remove, I'm not going to replace mine, so I'm not going to worry about whatever this washer thingy is.



So far, by far the hardest part of this job, other than removing the 24 cheesehead bolts holding the axles to the transaxle and the hubs, has been removing the cover piece from the CV joints. I had to put mine in a vise, and pound pretty aggressively with a hammer and punch to drive them off. Other than that, the job has been straightforward.

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[tamathumper]

The AutoAtlanta parts catalog shows the concave washer in the repair kit, but when you click through to their actual website, the pictures of the repair kits do not include the concave washer... I know that doesn't answer your question about whether or not it's required for your application. Their part number for the kit is R951 332 901 00, and maybe they'd have some insight for you if you called?

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[Cloud9...68]

Tamathumper,



Thanks, but I'm not going to worry about it, since my main goal was to re-pack the CV joints, and there's nothing matching the description of a concave washer in the actual CV joint assembly. The boots aren't torn, an in fact are still quite pliable, which I find pretty amazing for a19-year-old car, and it's probably why the grease inside the joints is so plentiful and "clean" (if grease can be clean).

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[willw]

Just replaced the inside driver's side boot on my 6 speed. A few things I found out:

1. The direct replacement part is $30 but the 944 one goes for $10 - this adds up if want to do all four.

2. The cheaper one fits fine, you just have to reuse your original fastening clip

3. If you're really feeling thrifty you can buy just the rubber boot for $5 - this could make you a great spare for cheap!



It's the same one used on the Boxster and several 911s - here's a link http://www.paragon-products.com/CV_Joint...293.02.htm

You have to use your original metal frame (assuming you're replacing an OE boot and not the 944 one)

You can buy a version which comes with grease and the correct fasteners - this goes for $13 http://www.paragon-products.com/product_...924.02.htm

These boots uses a tougher grade of rubber compared to the $10 944 one



4. The biggest thing I learned from this is that the muffler heat will cook your CV grease. I'm going to do the right side next and see if that's as bad, I'm guessing not.



I'd recommend buying the complete $13 Boxtser type one because it comes with grease and new fasteners.

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[Cloud9...68]

Willw,



Congrats on getting the CV boots done, and thanks for the info on the options. Surprisingly, the grease in my was in perfect condition, even the ones on the left near the muffler. I suspect they'd been repacked before; this grease couldn't have been original.



I'm intrigued by your avatar - is it a picture of the process of timing your cams? Have you done this job? I should be doing it in the near future, and am stranded hundreds of miles away from any shops with experience with this job, so I'm forced to tackle it on my own, although I will be leaning heavily on people who have done it before. However, this is a very exclusive club...

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[willw]

Thanks, yes that’s valve timing setup. I think you can do fine with just a dial gauge to indicate <acronym title='top dead center'>TDC</acronym>, then reset to your cam gear the same way it came off. There is a ton of info on the subject, but it doesn’t need to be that difficult. You can use zip ties to help you squeeze the unit place before assembly and be very carful to evenly torque down the cams. Take your time make sure your cam carriers are oriented correctly.



In addition to the great write ups on this site, I also found the photos on this piece helpful http://docwilenracing.wordpress.com/2009...intenance/

http://docwilenracing.wordpress.com/2009...intenance/

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[Cloud9...68]

Willw,



I'm glad to hear the cam timing went well for you. To be honest, I'm anxious to see what all the fuss is about. The pictures in your links are very good, but they don't really describe anything about the actual procedure. You say you've seen a lot of good info about the procedure on this site; could you point me to an example? So far, I haven't been able to find a step-by-step procedure that doesn't leave anything out. My ultimate goal in this is to gather the most reliable information I can from people who have successfully done this, and write up a very thorough, detailed set of instructions of the type I would like to use, which is to say, step by detailed step.

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[willw]

All the info is on this thread in the DIY section http://www.968forums.com/topic/4519-sett...ft-timing/

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[whotoo]

I have no idea what marks they are talking about in step # 20 on the Clark's Garage procedure. I've noted an asymmetry to the joints and am reinstalling all 4 with the three rings on the outside diameter engaged to the boot rings the way they came out. is that at all important?

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[Spyderman]

[quote name='Cloud9...68' timestamp='1301162821' post='107238']

I have a couple more questions (as usual) about this job. First, in Clarks Garage's DIY, step 9 says to remove the concave washer from the axle shaft, and that channel locks may be necessary to remove it from the shaft. I'm not seeing anything on or near my axle shaft that meets the description of a concave washer. Anybody know what he's referring to, or does this piece not exist on the 968 half-axles?



Second, I noticed that there are two types of grease used in the assembly. The races themselves are coated in a heavy, very smooth, black grease, while the axle splines have a brown grease of some kind. Any idea what types of grease these are, particularly the brown stuff on the splines?



I'm sure I'll have more questions as the job progresses. As an observation, the grease on my CV joints appears to be in excellent condition, and it doesn't look like they've been apart before. Clark's Garage says the grease tends to disappear over time, but there's tons of the stuff left in my races. Of course, I wouldn't have known this without taking them apart, but it looks like I could have gone 200K miles without touching these. Oh, well, I should be good for another 200K when I'm done.

[/quote]



I realize that this is an older thread, but for those who read this in the here and now, and wonder what the 'brown grease' might be in Cloud9's post, I think it's along the lines of a copper based anti-seize paste. I'm in the process of replacing my rear wheel bearings, and when I pulled the axle half shafts, I found a copper colored 'grease' coating the wheel shaft and hub splines. Made for an easy extraction of the wheel shaft from the wheel hub. I picked up the following item on ebay that I'll be using when I re-assemble everything.

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[Bulti]

There are probably a bunch of alternatives, but looks like the right stuff Spyderman! Grease her up :-)

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