[flash]

the sudden release and danger for me is likely my tool choice or body position - if i ever have to get back in there, i'll see if i can do something different about that - also, i don't use loctite of any type, so they tend to move more quickly

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[biotechee]

If loctite is required, it would be called out in the manual and should include the required loctite #. If the use of loctite is not called for in the factory manual, I wouldn't use it.



Follow the torque proceedure and you should be fine.

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks, that's what Flash told me as well. As I said, I think it would be physically impossible to effectively to use loctite on these bolts, given how long it takes to go through the full torquing procedure.

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[Cloud9...68]

Woo-hoo! The flywheel-ectomy is complete! I managed to remove the last bolt, which I had slightly damaged, by wedging a 3-1/8" wide piece of old baseboard material between the back side of the head of the wrench, and the inside of the bell housing. And I noticed that fortuitously, one of the bolts holding the torque tube to the bell housing was exactly where I had wedged the board, so I was able to loosen this bolt, slide the wood piece in, and then tighten the bolt against the board. This allowed me to apply a significant amount of pressure against the driver into the head of the bolt, which kept the driver in position while I was turning the breaker bar. So, the deed was done, without spending a dime on a fancy bolt extraction kit, and it only took a few minutes.



Pulling the flywheel wasn't too difficult, and I was very careful to make sure I was in position to catch it. What a mess behind the flywheel! I think the rear main seal must have given up its ghost years ago, judging by the amount of gunk back there. So the next steps are to clean things up back there, pull the old RMS, fabricate a mini-press as Eric_K explains, and then pressing the new one in. I don't have the new single mass flywheel yet, so I will then move on to other items, probably starting with the replacement of the transmission input shaft seal. If I can replace it without pulling the tranny, I'll take pictures, and post a DIY.

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[jakerade]

Hi



Anyone had problems with starting after changing to a Fidanza flywheel?



We are checking the speed sensor gap at the moment but having to use the 944 guide as a 968 one doesnt seem to exist? Suggests a clearance of 0.8mm



Thanks



Jake

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[flash]

there was a batch of them that had the ring gear installed in the wrong place

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[kwikt]

No problem. I set mine at .8mm and starts fine.

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[jakerade]

[quote name='flash']

there was a batch of them that had the ring gear installed in the wrong place



[/quote]





eek - that sounds pretty joyful...



i guess you can reposition the ring gear but will it need new bolts etc? Never thought to compare them.



To add insult to injury we managed to hit the flywheel sensor when trying to reposition it this morning



Thanks



Jake

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[flash]

i'd call fidanza on that one - i got lucky with both of mine, and the gears were in the right place

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[jakerade]

I sent them an email and got this back. Lets hope its the speed sensor as i dont want to have to pull it all out again!



Thanks







Jake,



As far as a batch of these 968 flywheels going out wrong, Ive heard nothing of this. Now, every once in a great while I do come across this problem. As with anything, there is a chance that the trigger on your flywheel was clocked wrong. If you have weeded out any other things that could cause a no start, then i would say this could very well be your problem. If so, please let me know and i will send you a picture of a 968 flywheel with the proper clocking.

Thank You,



Technical Department

Fidanza Engineering Corporation

4199 Main St. Unit A

Perry, OH 44081 USA

tech@fidanza.com

P: 440-259-5656 x116

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[jakerade]

it is indeed set incorrectly.....



Fidanza says its ok to reposition it. Will this upset the balance or was it manufactured with the balance based on the sensor ring being in the correct place (kinda slow getting responses direct from Fidanza...)



Others in the UK are having problems with the bearing housing coming detached. Has anyone else had this problem?



Thanks for your help



Jake

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[tamathumper]

This is a great DIY - it's a shame the pictures are broken... If I can help to fix them somehow, just let me know.

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[Cloud9...68]

This job must be a real bear on jackstands. I replaced my clutch and flywheel with the engine completely out of the car, and I assume Tama is using his scissor lift. Maneuvering the flywheel and clutch assembly through the bell housing window on your back with the car on jackstands must be a royal pain. I think I'd go out and buy a lift before attempting this job with the engine in the car!

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[flash]

not fun, but not that bad. of course, i've now done it entirely too many times, so perhaps i'm just numb

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[tamathumper]

I can't imagine getting the necessary torque from a creeper.

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[flash]

no creeper when i do that part. in fact, i don't think i've used a creeper at all in ages.

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[Cloud9...68]

I seldom use a creeper, and never when I need to apply significant torque to bolts from below the car. Man, do I ever want a lift...

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[kwikt]

Tackled this task a few times with jack stands and NO creeper. Actually I try to position myself so I can turn the crank(with one long ratchet) and torque the flywheel bolts at the same time. It does help marking the bolts(bolt area) while doing the torque circle so you don't lose track. I use a thin black Sharpie.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='kwikt' timestamp='1334873965' post='125700']

Tackled this task a few times with jack stands and NO creeper. Actually I try to position myself so I can turn the crank(with one long ratchet) and torque the flywheel bolts at the same time. It does help marking the bolts(bolt area) while doing the torque circle so you don't lose track. I use a thin black Sharpie.

[/quote]

Cool, although I'm trying to picture how you do this <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Eric_K]

[quote name='tamathumper' timestamp='1334850541' post='125645']

This is a great DIY - it's a shame the pictures are broken... If I can help to fix them somehow, just let me know.

[/quote]



I don't know what happened to the pictures. They were uploaded to forum so they wouldn't get lost. ? They are also here: http://www.968turbo.com/clutch.htm



Damn, I originally wrote that back in 2002. No wonder it seems so long ago.

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