[ds968]

Had the 100k miles variocam inspection yesterday.
The upper pad looks very good, just a light trace of some tracks but not quite in the grooves category.
Impossible to see the lower pad well enough to assess how much deeper the tracks were vs. the top pad's ( realizing that one does wear faster ), though we managed to get a small telescopic mirror in there and from the tiny bit that could be seen that lower pad also looked relatively ok .
Checked all of the teeth on a full rotation of the cams and gald to report a complete count, with none of their edges, tops or corners erroded. I wish we had a new cam to see how thick those teeth should be by comparison, because they did seem a bit on the thin side, or maybe they are perfectly fine, it's just very hard to tell without a frame of reference right next to them.
The chain does not appear to have streched at all, it's tight as can be ( I know the tensioner keeps it snug on those pads, but it's so tight it feels like it's superglued in place )
So, fingers crossed [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] I'm thinking based on the current appearance, the next check up is probably indicated in another 50k miles [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]

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[PorscheDude]

Glad to hear as is well with the cams.
You may consider replacing the pads and chain as preventative maintainance.


Pic of new cam teeth

http://rsbarn.com/images/968cam201.jpg

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[rxter]

<!--quoteo(post=69625:date=Mar 30 2009, 10:21 AM:name=ds968)-->QUOTE (ds968 @ Mar 30 2009, 10:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Had the 100k miles variocam inspection yesterday.
The upper pad looks very good, just a light trace of some tracks but not quite in the grooves category.
Impossible to see the lower pad well enough to assess how much deeper the tracks were vs. the top pad's ( realizing that one does wear faster ), though we managed to get a small telescopic mirror in there and from the tiny bit that could be seen that lower pad also looked relatively ok .
Checked all of the teeth on a full rotation of the cams and gald to report a complete count, with none of their edges, tops or corners erroded. I wish we had a new cam to see how thick those teeth should be by comparison, because they did seem a bit on the thin side, or maybe they are perfectly fine, it's just very hard to tell without a frame of reference right next to them.
The chain does not appear to have streched at all, it's tight as can be ( I know the tensioner keeps it snug on those pads, but it's so tight it feels like it's superglued in place )
So, fingers crossed [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] I'm thinking based on the current appearance, the next check up is probably indicated in another 50k miles [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


Which one wears faster?

I've heard different intervals, but the mech who PI'd for me, and subsequentially did a bit of work as well, suggested tightening belts at 15K intervals, and replacing them at 30K. That allows for a reasonably frequent inspection of the pads and teeth.

And, incidentally, my congratulations on keeping that beauty running and looking at good as she does for 100,000 miles and 16-odd years - well done.

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[ds968]

<!--quoteo(post=69633:date=Mar 30 2009, 12:31 PM:name=rxter)-->QUOTE (rxter @ Mar 30 2009, 12:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Which one wears faster?

I've heard different intervals, but the mech who PI'd for me, and subsequentially did a bit of work as well, suggested tightening belts at 15K intervals, and replacing them at 30K. That allows for a reasonably frequent inspection of the pads and teeth.

And, incidentally, my congratulations on keeping that beauty running and looking at good as she does for 100,000 miles and 16-odd years - well done.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


The bottom pad.

I'm confused.. what / how do belts replacement or tightening have to do with the variocam ? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]

Thanks [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

<!--quoteo(post=69626:date=Mar 30 2009, 10:34 AM:name=PorscheDude)-->QUOTE (PorscheDude @ Mar 30 2009, 10:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Glad to hear as is well with the cams.
You may consider replacing the pads and chain as preventative maintainance.
Pic of new cam teeth
http://rsbarn.com/images/968cam201.jpg<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

these do look thicker, and I should have probably taken a photo from a similar angle to compare apples to apples, because comparing photos to real life ( and memory recall at that ! ) is tough, but did I think of that at the time ?! Nooooo [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img]

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[Kim]

I would assume nothing other than affording a frequent opportunity to inspect them.

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[ds968]

so now that I'm at the point of replacing the pads and chain, and learned that my mechanic does not have the 9280 compression tool, and also learned from "search" that neither Sunset nor Paragon, nor anyone else ( even in Germany ) has them anymore, what has everyone else used as a substitute compression device ?

need quick help / advice on this, my mech was planning to re-assemble the system on wednesday and absent that specific tool, he will no doubt find a way to do it, eventaully.. but any tips, advice, etc on what works best is sincerely appreciated.

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[ds968]

<!--quoteo(post=72992:date=Jun 1 2009, 07:23 PM:name=ds968)-->QUOTE (ds968 @ Jun 1 2009, 07:23 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->so now that I'm at the point of replacing the pads and chain, and learned that my mechanic does not have the 9280 compression tool, and also learned from "search" that neither Sunset nor Paragon, nor anyone else ( even in Germany ) has them anymore, what has everyone else used as a substitute compression device ?
need quick help / advice on this, my mech was planning to re-assemble the system on wednesday and absent that specific tool, he will no doubt find a way to do it, eventaully.. but any tips, advice, etc on what works best is sincerely appreciated.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


Bump - anyone ? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img]

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[biotechee]

Call Pete at the Barn?

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[ds968]

Yup, I will.. was talking to him on the topic anyway, this tool issue just came up though so I'll follow up with him on that as well.

I just remember a few posts where others sucessfully used a variety of makeshift tools ( even wire from a coat hanger, IIRC ) but doing a search turned out exhaustive..and I still could not pinpoint where that info and
the most common diy advice was..

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[The_Oz]

Preventive maintenance [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] ... currently changing the chains, pads AND camshafts - at 180.000 Km

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[Cloud9...68]

<!--quoteo(post=74346:date=Jun 20 2009, 04:11 PM:name=The_Oz)-->QUOTE (The_Oz @ Jun 20 2009, 04:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Preventive maintenance [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] ... currently changing the chains, pads AND camshafts - at 180.000 Km<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Let us know how they look - these cars tend to have a HUGE amount of variation in the degree of pad and cam wear, for some reason. When I replaced my pads at about 85K miles, they look absolutely brand new - indistinguishable from the new ones I installed.

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[ds968]

mine looked great at 100k miles, top one was like new, the bottom did have a bit more sign of wear with tracks finally starting to appear but not much more than just that, a mere trace... and i keep the rpm mostly at or above 5k, I shift at 6 or 7 k a lot, and so forth. i only tracked the car once
though so perhaps the pads wear quicker for those who do that regularly. but "Cloud" is right - seems a lot of components on our cars wear with huge differences between one another and I for one am not so sure driving habits are necessarily the biggest influence - no idea what is but check everything at every opportunity. no surprises are a good thing here ! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img]

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[madridcab]

Had the Variocam system inspected 2 years ago when buying the car with approx 100K miles. My mechanic said pads, chain and cam sprockets looked like new (could not inspect bottom pad), and that I would be wasting money having him swap it. Still thinking about doing this in the next little while, though, not sure to do it next oil-change this fall or next belt change in 3 years time (only do about 2-3K miles per year). How much time should a P-Car experienced mechanic take on this job, 5-6 hours?
Will also need to do oil pan gasket at some time, so the question could be one of whether the right thing to do would be to do a complete engine preventive maintenance overhaul (head gasket, refresh top, rings, crank bearings, renew all gaskets, etc..) but I struggle with spending that much money on a perfectly well running engine..

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[Cloud9...68]

<!--quoteo(post=74362:date=Jun 21 2009, 04:57 AM:name=madridcab)-->QUOTE (madridcab @ Jun 21 2009, 04:57 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Had the Variocam system inspected 2 years ago when buying the car with approx 100K miles. My mechanic said pads, chain and cam sprockets looked like new (could not inspect bottom pad), and that I would be wasting money having him swap it. Still thinking about doing this in the next little while, though, not sure to do it next oil-change this fall or next belt change in 3 years time (only do about 2-3K miles per year). How much time should a P-Car experienced mechanic take on this job, 5-6 hours?
Will also need to do oil pan gasket at some time, so the question could be one of whether the right thing to do would be to do a complete engine preventive maintenance overhaul (head gasket, refresh top, rings, crank bearings, renew all gaskets, etc..) but I struggle with spending that much money on a perfectly well running engine..<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Boy, other than the Variocam thing (I foolishly and needlessly replaced mine at 85K), you hit my sentiments right on the head. The thing that makes deciding what, if anything, to do on these engines when they get to 15+ years and 100K+ miles, is that the two major wear items, the head/gasket, and the rod bearings, are on the opposite sides of the engine. So, if you proactively freshen the head and replace the rod bearings, it's not much of a leap to go ahead and do the rings, too, especially if, as in my case, you have a high reading of fuel dilution in your oil.

And then, the dreaded "while-we're-in-there" questions pop up - might as well go for at least RS Barn's Stage 2 head rebuild, and maybe the hotter cams, too, which really need the headers, which really need the stage 2 chip, and of course the cat back. With everything apart, might as well install a windage tray, right? And, why not punch it out to 3.2 liters, too? Pretty soon, you're well into five figures (don't worry, kids, a college education is over-rated anyway...), and all on an engine that's still running just fine!

This is why my preference would be to keep nursing my engine along until I get the funds to do a serious rebuild, then do it once, do it right, and then have a blast with it on the track. Wait, with all this new-found power, I'm going to need some serious suspension work too. Well, look on the bright side - Doing all this is still a lot cheaper than buying a new (or even used), modern high performance sports car, right? Ooh, I sense a new thread coming on...

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[DaveN]

Correct me if I'm wrong and this forum usually will [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img] but the look of the pads is not the only criteria for changing this item. After 15+ years they become brittle and can chip. These chips will get into the cam chain and then you get to make friends with your mechanic $$$$

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[The_Oz]

<!--quoteo(post=74351:date=Jun 20 2009, 04:44 PM:name=Cloud9...68)-->QUOTE (Cloud9...68 @ Jun 20 2009, 04:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Let us know how they look - these cars tend to have a HUGE amount of variation in the degree of pad and cam wear, for some reason.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


The pads were still the old type pads ...

The camshafts had all their teeth still on them - but the sprockets did show some wear and tear ... so "better safe, than sorry" I've replaced the camshafts for new ones .. the cams looked OK -

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[hryden]

In case another example helps,

I inspected my pads about 6 months ago at around 75k and everything looked good. Obviously, we couldn't see the lower chain pad very well (even with a little mirror), but based on how good the top pad, the chain and sprockets looked, we thought we were in good shape. I am now at 78k and just did the belts, water pump, and also decide to replace the chain pads as well. Glad I did!!! As good as everything looked every where else, the lower pad was shredded. It had really deep grooves in it and was very brittle.

The amazing thing is that the top pad, chain and sprocket all looked practically new with almost no noticeable wear. My mechanic was even amazed at how good they looked. That initial inspection was very deceiving and I am glad that paranoia over the pads lead to replacing them while having the belts done.

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[xrad]

maybe your tensioning unit is not working....

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[rustech]

Hans' example is very typical of a large percentage of our cars. Maybe they all aren't working?

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[The_Oz]

<!--quoteo(post=75767:date=Jul 18 2009, 03:27 PM:name=xrad)-->QUOTE (xrad @ Jul 18 2009, 03:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->maybe your tensioning unit is not working....<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


Mine wasn't indeed - observed a gap between <i>the plunger</i> and <i>the roller</i> ... didn't try to fix it - just replaced it [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]

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