[rxter]

Cab top was working fine. Now when I try to close it won't come all the way down. A bit higher at the stop of travel on the driver side (see pic). I could probably force it closed, but that seems dumb. Any adjustment tips from other cab owners?



Thanks



Joe



   



   

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[Mark]

Do not force it, that could get expensive. I would probably change to manual mode, but wait for more responses before doing so

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[968rz]

As Mark said DON"T FORCE IT, you could break the bows or worse. I dont have a cab so my help is limited but I do know the owners manaul tells you how to enter manual mode.

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[rxter]

Does going manual mean not being able to go back?



I did notice that when I put the top down the last time there was an audible clunk/grind at the end of the travel down. Sort of sounded like it went to far. I pulled it up just a hair to take the pressure off the cables/motors.

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[Anchorman]

Manual mode does not mean you can't go back to power. However, you might find that you like manual - my top has been "manual" for five years. As said, the owner's manual tells you how to go to manual, but I believe going back means making sure that the two sides (motors) are in synch. There's a manual on this site that tells how to do that - but I've never tried.



If you go to manual, and the top still doesn't go up and down with ease, HAVE IT CHECKED BY A KNOWLEDGEABLE EXPERT. Mistakes can be expensive.

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[earossi]

There is a "large" plastic plug in each of the rear kick panels. You can easilly reach these plugs. You'll need to pop them off to gain access to the bolt that has to be loosened to disengage from the power system. You will, I believe, use the lug wrench that you use to change your tires, to loosen the bolt. Once the bolt is loose, you shouuld be able to raise or lower the top manually.

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[Darryl]

Yes, correct...use the lug wrench (or equivalent) to loosen the two bolts. I think I read somewhere that there is a recommended number of turns to make sure the cable assemblies are fully disengaged, but I may be mistaken about that. IIRC, I backed mine out 3 turns on each side.



The problem when going back would be the inverse of not loosening enough, ie, not getting one side tight and having the motors be pulling at uneven tension from one side to the other. Biggest challenge with the motorized top is broken bows and/or motors not being in sync with each other, which usually causes the broken bow! Never had it happen, but after reading about it, I decided to go manual as well and love it that way...very similar to my Miata. When I first got my 968, I thought "how cool, a power top" but I found it too slow and a pain trying to guide it down so everything would fold up nicely. In manual mode, you can guide it as it goes down and I think it's actually faster.



- Darryl

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[SILVY968]

The above info is correct. a few turns and the top is disengaged from the motors. Find the amount of tension that will release the motors but not let the parts rattle around during driving.

Mine is also "manual". I find it is more convenient, as I can stop at a light, undo the latches and flip the top back. Also when parked I can easily put down my "window scratch eliminator" pillow as I flip the top down.

The electric top is cool, but manual is way faster.

Brian

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

A bit OT....but when you set the top to manual mode there are some pro`s (point taken)but what about the con`s???



If you ever have to switch back to electronic operation it seems to me you are taking some risks as well (as mentioned in the posts above) or are you just leaving it in the manual mode, for example, if you are selling the car? Or do you take your chances and hope that the motors are in the correct positions?? To me it would be a real bummer if you break one of the bows when you are trying to sell the car....

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[rxter]

Sounds like once you manualize you have to take it in to get it set back up for motorized operation. Seems like most of the P mechanics are good with the motor/drive train. Has anyone used a non-stealership mecahnic to work on the top, or is that a specialized skill? I would like it to be auto if possible, although I can live with it manual personally.



I also thought - cool, an auto top. But frankly with the towels (my window has the original stamp and I want it to stay clear and clean) and the boot cover this is not a top that you can throw down on a whim anyway. I do it in the garage or driveway and keep it down until I need it up.

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[Anchorman]

Go here - http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=360 - and you will find the instructions for synchronizing the top motors.

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[rxter]

Cool. Thanks Anchor



944 S2 same as the 93 968 top?

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[rxter]

So it looks like I want to do the following.



1) Manualize per instructions on page 21 of pdf.



2) Close top and lock



3) Adjust per instructions on page 13 of pdf. I assume that I should continue to put the top up and down manually whilst effecting the adjustments?



Then what?



Tigthen the lugs back 4 turns (reverse of the emergency manualization procedure) and operate electrically?

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[Anchorman]

Rxter,

I'd modify your procedure slightly.



2) See if, once in manual, the top closes relatively easily. If there is still resistance, STOP and inspect (or have a capable mechanic inspect) the mechanism to see what is preventing closure.



If there is no resistance, carry on as you describe.



Again, though, you may find - as many of us have - that manual operation of the top is better than power operation.

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Hi,





Today I bought another service manual regarding the cabriolet tops on our cars, it contains 60 pages and even the electrical diagrams. I think it was isued fot the 944 S2, but the top & operation are the same (at least I think). Once I get it I will make a scan and put it in the DIY section.



Regards,



Rutger

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[Darryl]

Rutger,



Sorry to be the messenger, but I think that manual is here in PDF format...check the DIY section under Misc.

If you obtained something different, my opologies in advance and yes, by all means thanks for sharing.



- Darryl

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Darryl,



The one on the forum is about "sealing" the car. The manual I just bought is different, I checked the numbers...( it also has more pages) It should arrive within 3 days.



Regards,



Rutger

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[rxter]

[quote name='Rutger' post='50911' date='Apr 14 2008, 05:28 PM']Darryl,



The one on the forum is about "sealing" the car. The manual I just bought is different, I checked the numbers...( it also has more pages) It should arrive within 3 days.



Regards,



Rutger[/quote]





Many thanks Rutger! I'll eagerly await your posts on this. The car is sitting in the garage looking kind of cock-eyed at the moment <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/blink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Joe

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[Anchorman]

Don't take the "Sealing" word in the title too narrowly. Apparently, getting the top to work properly is considered part of "sealing". But, I'll be very interested in seeing what this other manual is.

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Hi,



Got the manual in today.....it sure is different then the "sealing" one.....only thing left is to scan the 60 pages.... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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