[jimb968]

<!--quoteo(post=80690:date=Sep 25 2009, 04:47 PM:name=redhorse)-->QUOTE (redhorse @ Sep 25 2009, 04:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I need to replace one, and have part in hand...just have not gotten to it. Did you take any pictures by any chance, of the approach you used? I have been hoping that I could replace it without too much deconstruction of the top, and if I read your post correctly, that is what you are saying?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Great question. I'll add, how do you get under the canvas? How do you remove the bow?

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[sksail]

It really was not that hard. I am sorry that I did not take any photos, wish I had as it would be much easier to explain. I am not sure if this is exactly what I did but this is my attempt to go through the steps I took to repair my bow.

I started by removing the inner liner on the side that was broken. I think there are 4 small screws that you remove and peel back the the liner, this gives you a view of the working parts of the top. Then I started the real fun.

I have included 2 parts diagrams that I hope will help you, I used them to figure everything out. One is of the cabrio seals ( the top and rubber gaskets. the other is Cabrio top frames (the working parts of the top)
   

Next I removed the gaskets on the rear edge of the window. These are on the outer surface of the main bow. look on the underside when you drop the top and you will see a little plug to pull (#12). Then I removed the inner and outer gaskets from the Rail (#9) be careful removing these so you don't rip the rubber on the gaskets they are about $300 to replace them both! With the gaskets out of the way you can see the screws that hold the rail to the main bow. The canvas top is sandwiched between these two pieces of metal. Once you remove the rail you will see were the break is in the main bow and the top gets really floppy on the broken side. With the Rail out of the way you have the hardest part to do, that is peel the canvas off the main bow. it is glued on. You have to be very careful not to rip this material. I used a dull putty knife to peel it off. Now you can see the fracture.

Next you will need to remove the broken bow. I had to go buy some T long handle hex wrenches to get to some of the screws a 5mm, 6mm and 7/32. I also had to get a rivet tool.

   

I started by removing the base of the main bow from the car. you have to get the 2 screws out from the top support (#3) I had the hardest time with these screws. one was really stuck and I actually stripped it. I then broke an easy out off trying to get it out. then had to drill it and epoxy a wrench into to it to remove it. I hope yours goes easier. With those screws out you then have enough room to move the top support so you can get to the bolt at that holds the base of the bow to the top support. (There are 2 thin shims under the support base, do not loose them.) Once I removed the Bold and nut that hold the main bow to the top support I was able to remove the broken bottom portion of my bow.

Then I had to get the rest off. it is fairly simple with one exception. Once you remove all the attachments to the main bow you will find that the main bow has rivets holding the extension tube (#9) to the main top bow (#8). I removed the extension from the top main bow to free it. Now I had my upper broken part of the main bow out. Then I will drilled the rivets out and removed the extension tube from the main bow.

Then you just re assemble everything. The hardest part of reassembly was gluing the top back to the main bow and getting the rail back on, it helps to have an extra pair of hands for that part.

I hope that helps. If you have any questions give me a call. 207 443-3904
best of luck
Steve

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[flash]

ooh - please drop that into a PDF file so we can post it as a DIY

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[jimb968]

<!--quoteo(post=80708:date=Sep 26 2009, 06:01 AM:name=sksail)-->QUOTE (sksail @ Sep 26 2009, 06:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->It really was not that hard. I am sorry that I did not take any photos, wish I had as it would be much easier to explain. I am not sure if this is exactly what I did but this is my attempt to go through the steps I took to repair my bow.

I started by removing the inner liner on the side that was broken. I think there are 4 small screws that you remove and peel back the the liner, this gives you a view of the working parts of the top. Then I started the real fun.

I have included 2 parts diagrams that I hope will help you, I used them to figure everything out. One is of the cabrio seals ( the top and rubber gaskets. the other is Cabrio top frames (the working parts of the top)


Next I removed the gaskets on the rear edge of the window. These are on the outer surface of the main bow. look on the underside when you drop the top and you will see a little plug to pull (#12). Then I removed the inner and outer gaskets from the Rail (#9) be careful removing these so you don't rip the rubber on the gaskets they are about $300 to replace them both! With the gaskets out of the way you can see the screws that hold the rail to the main bow. The canvas top is sandwiched between these two pieces of metal. Once you remove the rail you will see were the break is in the main bow and the top gets really floppy on the broken side. With the Rail out of the way you have the hardest part to do, that is peel the canvas off the main bow. it is glued on. You have to be very careful not to rip this material. I used a dull putty knife to peel it off. Now you can see the fracture.

Next you will need to remove the broken bow. I had to go buy some T long handle hex wrenches to get to some of the screws a 5mm, 6mm and 7/32. I also had to get a rivet tool.



I started by removing the base of the main bow from the car. you have to get the 2 screws out from the top support (#3) I had the hardest time with these screws. one was really stuck and I actually stripped it. I then broke an easy out off trying to get it out. then had to drill it and epoxy a wrench into to it to remove it. I hope yours goes easier. With those screws out you then have enough room to move the top support so you can get to the bolt at that holds the base of the bow to the top support. (There are 2 thin shims under the support base, do not loose them.) Once I removed the Bold and nut that hold the main bow to the top support I was able to remove the broken bottom portion of my bow.

Then I had to get the rest off. it is fairly simple with one exception. Once you remove all the attachments to the main bow you will find that the main bow has rivets holding the extension tube (#9) to the main top bow (#8). I removed the extension from the top main bow to free it. Now I had my upper broken part of the main bow out. Then I will drilled the rivets out and removed the extension tube from the main bow.

Then you just re assemble everything. The hardest part of reassembly was gluing the top back to the main bow and getting the rail back on, it helps to have an extra pair of hands for that part.

I hope that helps. If you have any questions give me a call. 207 443-3904
best of luck
Steve<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Wow! Thanks so much for the thorough explanation of what you did. I think I'll venture forward.

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[Dobie]

deleted

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[Anchorman]

That is the correct part.

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[davelister55555]

Hi All, Can anyone help me source the circled below parts ? (see below) it would be much appeciate.

regards
Paul Nisbett

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[banditsc]

If you go here, you can download the parts diagram for the 968 and pull the part numbers for all of those pieces. Then you can get them form the dealer like Sunset Porsche who discounts the parts. http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands...partscatalogue/

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[Ed Russo]

I am also looking for the parts that davelister55555 has circled in his post above.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I believe the part numbers to be 9415615910 and 94156151711.



Thanks

Ed Russo

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[banditsc]

Time to start calling around to the Porsche dismantlers..



[size="2"][color="#1C2837"]20th Street Auto Parts in Phoenix, Arizona at: [/color][size="2"]www.20thstreetauto.com/[/size][/size]

[color="#1C2837"][size="2"]Oklahoma Foreign Car in Oklahoma City, OK. at: www.oklahomaforeign.com. [/size][/color]

[color="#1C2837"][size="2"]Parts Heaven in California at: www.partsheaven.com[/size][/color]

[color="#1C2837"][size="2"]DC Automotive in North Carolina at: [/size][/color][size="2"]www.dcauto.com/ [/size]

[color="#767676"] [/color]

[size="2"]Probably a couple I'm forgetting.[/size]

[color="#767676"] [/color]

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[Ed Russo]

Thank you banditsc. I'll start searching immediately .

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[Monstrous4Banger]

Just an FYI from a local Phoenix resident. I wouldnt trust anything rebuilt, or remanufactured from 20th street. An OEM replacement you would probably be ok, if its something simple.

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[Ed Russo]

I will have to source the salvage yards .

Called Sunset and their price for the two pieces was over$700. Pelican wanted over $1100.

Are they serious ?

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[banditsc]

There is an entire top with everything for I believe 1100 on the Pelican parts forum.

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[SILVY968]

I needed the same rubber parts about 2 years ago. I was told that they are not available new any longer. I looked at ebay for about a year until i saw a guy selling the rubber parts from his crashed 968 cab. he wanted half of new prices, but I was able to talk him down, but only a bit.

Try to build up any torn pieces of rubber from the ends with black silicone. Saran wrap can be used over the silicon patch, with the door/window closed to form a watertight mold. The saran wrap will not stick to silicon. Also very handy for water leaks at the window/roof gasket line.



There are certain parts that are gone for good and the list keeps getting longer.

If there are pieces that are getting worn, now is the time to look for them before they become as expensive as hen's teeth.

Brian

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[Ed Russo]

I'm going to try and salvage the parts.

Thank you to all for their advise

This forum rocks.



Ed Russo.

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[Dobie]

Any updates on repair/replacement kits for the bow?

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[mbardeen]

Just when I thought I was getting a handle on this car... I go to fix a bit of non-fitting rubber moulding around the window and discover a broken main bow on the passenger's side. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/whine.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



What else lurks for me, I wonder?

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[MLB]

Okay, okay! I give. I've been "scared straight" by all the cab top gloom and doom threads I've been reading, and so I'm finally switching to manual mode. It wasnt that fun in powered mode anyway because its not very fast, it made a significant amount of 'gear-y' noise (even though it didnt sound like there was a problem), you still have to get out and amble around the car for a few minutes, and most of all the anxiety over this car sucking another couple Grover Clevelands out of my wallet for no good reason has become unbearable ;0)

So, Cab top is in the fully upright and locked position.

I removed relay G21 from the fuse box near the brake booster.

Now I'm trying to loosen the bolts through the rear seat area side panels, and those puppys are TIGHT. Almost afraid of breaking something just trying to loosen them. Is this normal, and I should just patiently keep cranking?

Can I stop and test periodically for manual move-ability? is it important that I keep very careful track of how many turns?

Thanks

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[tamathumper]

Mine were not that hard to turn, and only a couple of turns are required although the manual calls for more.

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