[rhudeboye]

Was bleeding my brakes yesterday and the right rear outer bleeder valve snapped clear off. All the others turned pretty easy and bleed out fine. This one never budged, meaning the fluid is still locked in.



Where do i go from here?



Has anyone successfully tapped into this little valve and backed it out?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[MB968]

Don't know much about our calipers. But, if the caliper is aluminum you could use a heat gun to heat up the area around the bleeder. Assuming you can get some kind of tool on (or in) the bleeder, it will give you a lot better chance of getting it out.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rhudeboye]

Ill try. Heading over to sears as I hear they have a tool designed for that kinda thing.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rhudeboye]

I give up. After using an drill and extractor kit, an impact and a host of other improvised tools. I've come to find that whats left of that bleeder screw is a piece of the caliper. We drilled down to the smallest fractions of an inch and the screw will not break apart and collapse. I guess Ill be buying a new caliper.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[vliegwielolaf1234]

Too bad , bummer

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rhudeboye]

HOLY CRAP! They're NLA!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mbardeen]

DC auto has them used, $225



http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/841219971



Good luck with your hunt!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rhudeboye]

Thanks, I keep coming up with Centric calipers

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[DaveN]

Can't you just tap it, flush the bits out and out in a proper bolt? Or better yet a bleed screw from an auto like a truck that will have a larger diameter? This will make it a bit of pain to flush in the future but a lot less expensive.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[KRAG50]

Is it a stock front, if so I have a couple, rebuild two years ago.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rhudeboye]

No, it's stock rear. part # 951.352.421.02



just purchased it.

I figure i should rebuild the right while I'm at it.Looks like an easy procedure

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[tamathumper]

Can't be helicoiled?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rhudeboye]

Tam-

I doubt it. The bottom of the bleeder screw is still in there. If someone could successfully remove whats left of the bleeder screw, clean out that tiny area and re-tap. I'm sure it would be pricey.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[kwikt]

Maybe try a reputable machine shop and have them take a look at it.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='kwikt' timestamp='1349999777' post='133704']

Maybe try a reputable machine shop and have them take a look at it.

[/quote]

I agree. Extracting the bleed screw has to be cheaper than buying a new (used) caliper.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[DaveN]

One last suggestion...

http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/index.ph...cts_id=240

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[MB968]

Left hand drill set, nice find.



If this were my problem, I'd first soak the threads (let them stand overnight) with something like a teflon spray, or liquid wrench. Then, preferrably with the caliper off the car, I'd heat up the caliper, and try using the left hand drill. I'd try a size that was less than the drill size for the threads on the bleeder, but with enough bite to dig into the bleeder. I don't think you'll be able to get the bleeder to turn out, since you couldn't do it when it had a hex on it. But it is worth a try.



When this didn't work, I'd follow one of two courses.



My biggest concern with this first approach is that it could screw up to bottom of the hole where the bleeder seats. For this approach I'd use a regular drill, one size less than the drill size for the bleeder threads and drill out the hole to the bleeder. Then I'd follow with the drill size for the tap for theese threads, taking care not to oversize the hole (which is why I'd start with one size below this first). Then I'd follow this up with a normal tap, and then a bottom tap.



The other approach which I think could work better is mentioned in previous posts, putting in a helicoil. I assume the drill for the helicoil for the stock thread is larger than the current threads that are in the caliper. If so, you can drill it down to just past where the stock threads are in the hole. So once you are past the threaded portion of the broken off bleeder, the rest could just be pulled out. This should protect the bottom seating area for the bleeder. Helicoil it, and you are back in business.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[kwikt]

Their is a set of rear 944T calipers on Pelican sight for $150.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-9...rs-fs.html

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rhudeboye]

good suggestions. I got a caliper off a wrecked 968 for $120. with a 90 day warranty.



I'm pulling the caliper and will continue trying later. Id like to take my time and practice cleaning and rebuilding a caliper on that one. If I get the screw out, Ill paint it as well and put it back on the car. Was thinking of painting it Red, blue or Yellow. so many colors look good on a black car

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

not yellow. it will ALWAYS look dirty.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.