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ALIGNMENT SPECS FOR YOUR CAR
#61

sunset imports is a porsche dealership. each dealership has the ability to set its own prices. sunset has historically been lower across the board.



to truly get the ride height, you have to do some measuring the way it shows in the workshop manual. a quick check though is at the fender arch.



26.5 or so is normal for a standard car. 20mm lower is M030, whether it is CS, Sport, or normal. there is no difference i can find anywhere between US and ROW.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#62

You're right and when you're right you're right and you, you're always right! I've decided that the whole suspension system needs a makeover. Here's what i'm thinking. New Koni sports shocks all round with 220lbs-ish springs, new bushes all round, just the standard items nothing fancy, its a road car and the roads are getting wose by the minute! And Bob's lower chassis brace while all this is going on will be the icing on the cake, after years of old bushes etc it will feel brilliant! And of course a re-level to get it all working correctly. Comments. Anyone, anyone? Fry?
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#63

sounds like a decent plan. you'll enjoy the car more, and not go broke doing it. good on ya
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#64

I just put on 220's and they seem just dandy for every day driving; certainly not too harsh.
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#65

Checking around for complete Koni sport shocker and spring combo in the UK, and there are none. They don't do front coilovers I am told. But Spax do a full sport set which is height adjustable by about 20mm/3/4", is that doable for an already lower Sport, bearing in mind the JIm pasha article about ride height etc? Any feed back would be appreciated. Ta.
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#66

I keep looking at this thread waiting for salvation, but no reply. AND THERE SHOUDN'T BE ONE! Just browse the site, there's lot's of stuff! For example, Koni yellow sport shocks with 200lb springs front, 90lb rear for a slightly firmer than bog standard set-up. Job done! Won't be asking any more stupid questions..... while I'm here what's the best tyres with that set-up! Only kidding.
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#67

Since I do very little driving on the roads with my car (mainly just to and from autocross, about 30 miles away. Not to work because it's no fun to sit in traffic), I am looking for some alignment specs to bring to the alignment shop tomorrow since they'll only do the alignment to a set of specs.





There is very little information I could find about setting up the 968 or even 944 for autocross (mostly just for street and track use), and no info for setting up a 968 M030 setup (which is lowered to bottom on the rear, and adjusted level in the front - with big thanks to Flash!).



What I'm thinking is:



Front:

zero toe

-3.0° camber (if it can be adjusted that high)

Caster - follow Flash's settings of 3.30° Left and 3.60° Right



Rear

1/8" total toe IN

-2.0° camber



Is there any reason to go higher on the caster settings? Anyone out there do autocross with their car and have any input?
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#68

generally speaking, that's WAY too much negative camber up front. you'll end up reducing your net contact patch area because your outside tire will barely be touching. this will cause your inside tire to bear all the load, and heat up quite a bit. if you ever plan to drive faster than autocross, you'll have a problem.



that being said, because autocross is so slow, allowing the car to roll over helps keep it from sliding during weight transfer. negative camber helps here. HOWEVER, you need to look carefully at your tire wear patterns and tire temps across the tire. this will tell you whether or not the extra camber will help you or hurt you.



if i had to guess, for autocross, assuming you have the upper and lower braces installed, i would say -2 degrees up front would be about right.



caster is what brings the steering wheel back to center and keeps the car from wandering on the freeway. it doesn't hurt you in autocross. more is pointless and will only increase steering resistance.



what you have for the the rear is fine for autocross. that much camber will wear out tires on the road though. you're going to have to decide how fast you want to go through those.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#69

My guy wants to do my alignment with me sitting in the car. Sounds good - any thoughts? This will be my first time through this process with the car and I just bought new Michelin Super Sports.

Thanks

Ed
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#70

sounds like a good start. that is always best.



you'll love the super sports
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#71

So, I got the car aligned on a Hunter Hawkeye Elite machine. It took about 2 hours. They did the alignment with me in the car.

Before the alignment, my settings without me in the car were -0.1 left and +0.2 right camber front, 0.2 left and 0.28° right toe IN, and caster was around 2.5° one side and 2.9° the other. Rear was at -1.7° camber and 0.3° toe IN each side.



Here is where I ended up:



Front:

Caster - 3.2 both sides - he couldn't squeeze any more out of it.

Camber -2.9 left, -3.0 right is what the final printout said, although on the Hunter Hawkeye machine they used which is very sensitive, it kept going back and forth between -2.9 and -3.0.

Toe - Zero



Rear:

Camber: -1.9 on both sides - couldn't get any more out of it he said.

Toe - 0.25° each side.





I had my first autocross event with the updated alignment yesterday and WOW what a difference in steering response - instant. However, I think I am gonna play around with moving my rear swaybar to the middle setting again since I was getting some wheel hop around corners and it felt like a little more roll could have helped things. I ended up 0.296 seconds behind the class winner in a 944S2 with weight reductions, suspension and swaybars, and sitting on a second-event set of Direzza ZII's.



Also, since my alignment was done with me in the car - it definitely feels more off-balance with a passenger on the autocross course - whereas before my best times were with a passenger.



Oh, and here's my splitter scraping on the ground in a corner. Three scrapes on turn-in <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/EmoticonCar.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

http://youtu.be/1WFlxuqEGX0
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#72

For what it's worth, my guy just stuck the equivalent amount of batteries in the footwell and seat, I left for much more pleasant things ;-)
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#73

Adam in other pics of your car I've seen your front end looks like it's set a little bit too low. It's interesting that more body roll is better for autocrossing - I've spent my life trying to dial it out of every car I've owned!
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#74

I kind of agree with Flash that -3.0º seems like too much, even for a slow autocross. Does the S2 that beat you have that much? If he said yes, was he telling the truth? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#75

Next spring I'll get a corner balance when I have to do a new alignment after getting the suspension rebuilt, which should help level the car out even more.



As Bob said - a lot more of these quick steering twitches back and forth, especially in slaloms, really need some body roll or the tail of the car will start snapping...and you know what that leads to!
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#76

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1369017956' post='142908']

sounds like a good start. that is always best.



you'll love the super sports

[/quote]



Thanks Flash! I appreciate the feedback. As soon as I get the car and get it cleaned up I will be sure to post better photos. I also want to get a tower brace as soon as I get the cash flow updated.



Ed
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#77

well, you have 9 days left to do that. then i'm shutting down for a year.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#78

Yikes!
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#79

Ordered and paid!

Thanks

Ed
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#80

[quote name='DaveN' timestamp='1369068607' post='142923']

For what it's worth, my guy just stuck the equivalent amount of batteries in the footwell and seat, I left for much more pleasant things ;-)

[/quote]





Yea I thought about that he would have to put weigh in the car - but 285lbs is a lot to stack on the seat (I ain't small ya know) - The thought made me cringe - and batteries?!?! Yikes!! one leak and the interior is gone not to mention the possibility to scratch something.



I figured it would be time well spent learing something as well.



Thanks

Ed
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