[speedysprocket]

Swapped the chip and problem remains.  How do I check codes?  I hooked a wire up to the terminal for the check engine light so I could put a multi meter on it.  I thought you press the gas pedal to the floor or something...?

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[flash]

search here for "blink test".  there is a thread with the procedure and a list of the codes.  you will need to be able to count the blinks of the check engine light.

 

always use the advanced features of the search.

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[speedysprocket]

Is there any way to test the MAF besides replacing with a known good one?  I did just order another DME relay, though I can't believe that would cause such an issue...

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[flash]

i'm sure there is a test, and the durametric can probably do it, as it can track the readings, but i don't have the reference points so as to compare the readings with a known condition.

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[speedysprocket]

So I did the best I could with the MAF test described in the manual.  I get voltage increase when I blow across the wires.  One thing I don't see is the manual says the wires should glow for a second 4 seconds after shutting the car off, and I don't get that.

Blink test is still a mystery.  I've found through searching that pins 15 and 19 on the diagnostic plug are the same that feed the check engine light.  They trace back to pins 11 and 13 of the 14 pin connector on the DME harness.  However, I get no voltage across 11 and 13.  From reading, one should be positive, and the other a switched ground...?  But I'm not seeing anything.  Can anyone help there?

Finally, could it be my coil...?  It's a Nology that I've been running for like 8 years now.  Can the coil act fine at low throttle, and progressive get worse over time with higher throttle positions?  (This symptom is getting worse- stumbling at lower throttle positions...)

Thanks!

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[flash]

a coil can absolutely create all sorts of problems.  i wish you had said you had that earlier.  under heavy load, like WOT and higher rpms, if the coil is getting too hot, it will fail as described.

 

swap out to a known good OEM coil, or even a bosch super blue and test

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[speedysprocket]

Yup, swapped it out with a stock one I had...  Runs like it used to!  What can I buy for a new coil, though?  I've had a stock one just die all at once ,before...  That's when the Nology went into the car.

 

And I'd still like help on the check engine light, if possible.

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[speedysprocket]

Well that sucked.  Bought a brand new blue super coil.  Distributor wire was too big...  Then tried to start the car...  Took forever to start and then died anything past idle!  What's up with this new coil?  Put the old stock one back in and all is good again...

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[flash]

as far as i know, the OEM coil is still available.

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[speedysprocket]

Why does the super blue not work...?  Stock is 12 volt, right?

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[flash]

i ran a super blue for a while (i think it's still around here somewhere).  ran "ok" but i could swear it wasn't quite the same performance as stock.  not sure the connector fit right though.  i think i had to change the end

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[speedysprocket]

swap out to a known good OEM coil, or even a bosch super blue and test

So now you tell me the super blue may not have been the best choice...?!

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[flash]

for test purposes it would be fine, and readily available.  i figured availability might be a problem with an OEM coil, so i suggested a substitute for testing. 

 

i can't say the super blue wasn't fine when i was running it.  it just seemed better when i went back to stock.  i have no data to support the feeling.

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