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A couple of months ago, I started hearing a high pitched whine coming (I think) from the rear of the car. Starting about 35MPH, I can hear it when I am on the freeway. When I push in the clutch and coast, I still hear it so it's probably not engine-related. Just changed tires and the sound is still there. Any thoughts? Bearings, trans, other?
95 Coupe, Aventurine Green Metallic
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Actually more like a pair of J-79s running in full afterburner. Sounds like a pinion bearing to me. I changed mine when it got to the point where I couldn't drive the car for more than an hour without getting really agitated. Kind of like the way you get when there is something off in a sound system that makes you want to run away!!! Or like way too much expresso in the morning.
Chris Vais
1994 Coupe Midnight Blue Metallic
2015 Audi Allroad Quattro Brilliant Black
2008 Audi A5 Brilliant Black
(This post was last modified: 05-14-2010, 09:46 PM by
Chris Vais.)
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From another site
Pinion Bearing Failures
Everything you wanted to know and were afraid to ask:
What is a pinion bearing: the 968 has a transaxsle i.e. the gearbox, final drive and differential all in one unit. The gearbox output shaft has at its end a pinion gear driving the crown wheel. This shaft has a big 'pinion' bearing on one end and a smaller one at the other end. A pre-load is applied by way of shims and a nut at the smaller end of the shaft.
Symptoms: Road speed related whine audible from 35-40 mph. Test on straight road with smooth surface for minimum tyre noise. Close roof and windows, accelerate to 80-85 mph, lift off, if you hear noise resembling a jet plane slowing down on a runway - you have a problem ! Alternatively you can secure the rear of the car on stands, run the car in top gear and listen to the noise from the gearbox. If you haven't got LSD you can stop one or the other wheel to eliminate possible wheel bearing and CV joint noise.
Cause: Too much pre-load on the pinion bearing at assembly. Getrag ( who made these transmissions for Porsche ) uses a computer controlled robot, which has not always been accurate.
Repair: This requires complete dismantling of the transmission. Porsche allows 15 hours, but everyone says it is not enough. One London, UK, dealer quoted 40 hours at £70 plus tax = £3290 = over $5000 just for labour. Parts are not too expensive, but it may be wise to replace all the bearings. Setting the correct free play - 'backlash' while at the same time achieving the correct pre-load requires an accurate measuring instrument, choice of shims, patience and experience.
Make sure your mechanic / shop have the necessary skills.
Prevention: Check for leaks, correct oil level. It may be a good idea to change the oil at 20,000 miles or maybe even more often.
92 968 Coupe, Polar Silver/Black, 6 speed
88 928 S4, Lagoon Green/Cobalt Blue
79 911 SC Track car
(This post was last modified: 05-14-2010, 08:44 PM by
968Oz.)
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Thanks for the quick feed back. The sound itsn't horribly loud. I only noticed it when the stereo was off. Could it be a low fluid problem? If it turns out to be the pinion, do you think I could replace with a used LSD unit more cost effectively than a rebuild?
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Thanks for the offer Flash. However, I'm probably not going to have very many opportunities to steal away to LA any time soon. I'll just have my mechanic down here take a listen next week.
Regarding the LSD, thought it might be a convenient reason to upgrade. Otherwise, not really ready to make the change right now.
Thanks again.
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"Six years ago, parts and labor cost me $ 2,050."
Mine reached an unbearable level of noise at about 96,000. The repair was $2500, but I also replaced the synchros, and bearings. As I recall, most of the pinions failed within the first 100,000 miles or so and I don't know of anyone who had it properly replaced having to do the job a second time.
Chris Vais
1994 Coupe Midnight Blue Metallic
2015 Audi Allroad Quattro Brilliant Black
2008 Audi A5 Brilliant Black
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Someone told me that if you didn't see a problem the first 75000 miles you probably never would. He was referring to assembly and material problems.
Normal wear and tear should logically result in a little less noise in the beginning of the tranny life and then gradually increasing.
I would do an oil change first. I have used a Redline product with a friction enhancer (to aid when shifting and not to be used in clutch type lsd's) with great success but others may feel differently. After the oil change I would monitor the noise to see if it intensifies but since it is not audible unless you turn your stereo off I'd say you're most likely ok and that the noise/sound is simply a new thing that you have discovered (I get that all the time).
Perhaps get one of those magnetic plugs for the tranny and plan for dual or triple oil changes to thoroughly check for chips. Oil change is rather easy albeit a bit messy and oil is cheap compared to a unnecessary tranny rebuild.
1995 Riviera blue 968CS with LSD, custom LEDA coilovers with t-bar delete, S4 brakes, RS Barn braided lines, Tarett sways, Racers Edge bushings everywhere, Rack Tack, Design 1 braces and short shift kit, air box mod, RS Barn stage 1 chip, RS Barn cat back, RUF BTR2 wheels with Toyo R888, Deutsch Nine TRS version 2 rear wing (carbon fiber), AIR repop splitter (carbon fiber), brake cooling intakes (carbon fiber), Sparco seats and belts, OMP steering wheel and a lot of other little things that I can't recall at the moment...
(This post was last modified: 05-16-2010, 03:03 AM by
firefish.)