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A/C's out
#1

After 6 weeks or so in the paddock outside my mechanics' shop the A/C has failed on my car. Transmission's very nice now thanks, but it's HOT AS HELL inside the car.



The compressor kicks in but I don't see any activity in the 'spyglass'. I am assuming the compressor seals have failed.



Suggestions, tips?



Thanks.
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#2

The true test is to put a pressure gauge on the system. You should have about 145 to 175 PSI on the high pressure side of the system when the engine is at 2000 RPM.



Don't rule out the dreaded heater control arm failure too. That will dump hot air into the cabin even if the AC is on.
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#3

Thanks. I don't think it's the arm. I can tell the difference when I turn the heat on. I have an early Monday AM appointment with my local A/C guy, but the more advance knowledge the better.
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#4

[FONT=Times]My compressor went out a while back, just like you said i couldnt see anything in the spy glass so i took it to a mechanic and all the freon had leaked out, there was a leak in the compressor its about a thousand to fixed, but you could try a recharge kit that has a sealer, depending on the leak size it may hold up for a while. A good way to tell if the compressor is bad is by looking to see if it has alot of grease on it. Good luck.[quote name='Etnier' date='Jul 16 2005, 09:11 AM']After 6 weeks or so in the paddock outside my mechanics' shop the A/C has failed on my car. Transmission's very nice now thanks, but it's HOT AS HELL inside the car.



The compressor kicks in but I don't see any activity in the 'spyglass'. I am assuming the compressor seals have failed.



Suggestions, tips?



Thanks.

[right][post="7439"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]
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#5

No activity in the sight glass usually means either nothing (dry - no oil or coolant) in the system = catastrophic failure (leaking AC line, compressor, evaporator, etc) rather than just a simple minor R134 or R12 leak OR the compressor clutch is not engaging.



SO - check the AC fuse, AC relayand Compressor clutch wire too.



With the engine "off" but ignition on, can you hear the electric AC clutch "click on" when you hit the *snowflake button on the AC control? If there is no click, then suspect fuses, relays, even the HVAC control (little yellow light still come on in the switch?). There is another simple thing to check - get under the car and make sure the single BLACK wire connection from the compressor to the spade connection (it's about 8" long) has not been disconnected. If your car was "serviced" recently, there is a chance this was disconnected - it's really easy to do and forget because it is a rather thin wire. It would not be the first time this has happened to owners either.



If all this works OK, then start looking for compressor leaks (the oily streaks etc).



If you've lost the R12 (92 cars) or R134 (93+ cars) then you need to do the leak tests etc. Most countries, you cannot get R12 anymore, but check Greimann's post http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=905 on HC coolant - I'm waiting for my kit to refill a system but they are also on eBay for less $$. Get some leak detector (just dye in the coolant fill) if you suspect a leak in the system. A good AC check at your serviceman should include a liquid nitrogen charge / check (much better for the environment) to find the leak.



For our 85.5 Porsche 944NA, I just changed a compressor ($200 on eBay with 1 year warranty from a 6000+ feedback seller) and a line. I also changed the receiver dryer ($30 - cheap). A good idea to get a LOT of new "O" rings while you are at it however. My total cost for the whole install re & re will be under $350 plus 8 hours labor removing and installing everything. My 968 Cab checked out fine with the Nitrogen test, but since it was a R12 fill, I cannot get anyone to recharge it, hence I will try the HC kit refill that Greimann suggests.



If the car blew ice cold 6 weeks ago and there is absolutely nothing now in the sight glass, that sounds like something more catastrophic / or faulty electrics rather than a gradual slow leak. I'd check out the electrics first - that should be easy 30 minutes max.
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#6

Thanks for all this info!!! My A/C guy recharged the system today and we're going to see what happens over the next 24 hours. He's a bit frustrated by the fact that it's so hard to access the 'low' fitting.
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#7

I know the horse may already be out of the barn, but when your mechanic recharged the system, he should have added dye. If it leaks, even a slow leak, you will be able to determine its location and whether its just an ring or something worse and it operates fine with the dye if everything is OK.



Perbal
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#8

Quote:…when your mechanic recharged the system, he should have added dye.



This is a very smart old coot who knows his stuff and doesn't charge an arm and a leg. We're all set there.



ON EDIT: 24 hours later the system is still fully charged and shows no dye leaks or bubbles in the window. Wonder what happened to make it lose the charge? My guy thinks that the recharging, with the redistribution of the oil, sealed a leak. Says it happens... we'll see.
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