[frank moran]

[quote name='flash' date='Mar 20 2006, 12:36 PM']do a blink test again first - make sure you have a good reading



don't change a thing until you have done that



while it's fine to put in new parts, since you are trying to diagnose something, start with the diagnostic process - establish a nominal condition, identify problems, then move on the cure



then, if the blink test shows nothing, start with simple stuff like you said

[right][post="17641"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Ditto, 100% don't start throwing parts at it until you have confirmed the diagnosis. In the end that is the least costly approach. The info below is at the ecm or DME wire harness....



this may help some;

Test Point 1 - Power Supply for DME Control Unit

TEST POINT 1a - Power Supply for Digital Motor Electronics (DME) control unit (V)



Possible Causes, Elimination, Remarks





a) Permanent positive (B+) If there is no B+ at (term 30) the fault memory is cleared









Test procedure: Connect a voltmeter to terminal 24 (-) and terminal 18 (+) of the control unit plug with the help of test leads.



Display: Battery voltage



No display: Check current flow and ground paths in accordance with wiring diagram.







TEST POINT 1b - Power supply of DME control too high/too low - Fault code 1_11



Possible Causes, Elimination, Remarks





<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Power supply via terminal 15













Check regulator voltage with the engine running. Specified value approx. 13.8 V .

Connect a voltmeter to terminal 24 (-) and terminal 27 (+) of the control unit plug with the help of test leads.

Turn on ignition.

Display: Battery voltage

No display: Check current flow according to wiring diagram.







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[ether_joe]

to clarify, I am definitely getting 1-5 no fault the first time, when I repeat the process immediately after the first I get 1-1, then repeat again I go back to 1-5, et al.



Also I know from a prev inspection that the distributor contacts are corroded so it's due for replacing anyways.



Taht being said I will also exercise your suggestions as well so thanks for those.

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[flash]

so, just to be sure we are on the same page - the short blinks say 1-5 - the long blink is the 1-1 thing?



if so, that's cool - weird, but cool



new cap and rotor can never hurt



we have heard of knock sensors kicking out but not showing up in the blink test - they would cause the cutoff too

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[BBZ 968]

[quote name='flash' date='Mar 19 2006, 07:33 PM']wow - an early one!  what is the serial number on the car? been trying to figure out the point at which they changed over

[right][post="17580"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Flash....I'm not sure what my "serial" number is......However I do have the following.........TRANSMISSION NUMBER 1001268

ENGINE NUMBER 42N51195

VIN Number WPOZZZ96ZNS801473

Does this help ?



What conclusions do you draw from this info ? please explain.



Cheers Shaun.

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[flash]

the serial number or vin number should be on the windshield, the door jam, and your registration



what i am trying to figure out is at exactly what point they changed ecu models - it was in the first few 92s - then from there on it was the late model

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[BBZ 968]

[quote name='flash' date='Mar 20 2006, 10:13 PM']the serial number or vin number should be on the windshield, the door jam, and your registration



what i am trying to figure out is at exactly what point they changed ecu models - it was in the first few 92s - then from there on it was the late model

[right][post="17665"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I have edited the post to include the VIN Number. Let me know which one I may have and whether I am at a disadvantage ?



Shaun.

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[ether_joe]

1. turn key to 2nd (on position)

2. depress accelerator until CEL blinks, the release pedal

3. one short blink, then five short blinks, then a long blink, then repeat 1-5 short blinks, this cycle continues

4. depress accelerator pedal again until CEL blinks

5. one short blink, long blink, one short blink, long blink, et al.

6. depress accelerator pedal again until CEL blinks

7. per #3, one short blink, then five short blinks, then a long blink, then repeat 1-5 short blinks



in this cycle, is what I'm getting

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[ether_joe]

[quote name='BBZ 968' date='Mar 20 2006, 02:09 PM']                      VIN Number  WPOZZZ96ZNS801473[/quote]



IIRC this is well into the '92 run, yes?

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[insite94]

BBZ (and Flash) -



I note the "ZZZ" in the VIN posted, which appears on all cars - US and ROW cars, if I'm not mistaken - under the hood on the firewall. The US VIN cars will make their distinction known on the door mylar sticker and driverside A-pillar with "AA2" instead of "ZZZ".



That said, check to see if your car is truly Euro, or if US. If Euro, might that be a Euro ECU?



I'm curious on the early part too.



Best,



Buzz

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[flash]

bbz



that's odd - it is a euro car, but that car should not have come with that chip - #1473, even accounting for the in house numbers, should be well into the run, and well after the changeover



did you happen to get the ECU number?



is that the original ECU and/or chip?



depending on the ECU, there have been problems over here when fitting a wrong chip into the wrong ECU - i have no idea about over there - you have a sightly different setup, and slightly different fuel - we have a lot more issues with chips here



a quick run ot the dyno, or an emissions test will tell you if you are running lean or rich or not - if the car revs to the specified redline, and your mixture looks great on an A/F meter, then i would say you're fine



as for disadvantage, well, there is the new and better RS Barn software out there, but due to your location, and the inherant import cost issues, balanced against what additional power you would get in return, unless you are racing, or running at the top end limits, i don't recommend changing, unless you are also going to do more mods

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[BBZ 968]

[quote name='flash' date='Mar 21 2006, 04:16 AM']bbz



that's odd - it is a euro car, but that car should not have come with that chip - #1473, even accounting for the in house numbers, should be well into the run, and well after the changeover



did you happen to get the ECU number?



is that the original ECU and/or chip?



depending on the ECU, there have been problems over here when fitting a wrong chip into the wrong ECU - i have no idea about over there - you have a sightly different setup, and slightly different fuel - we have a lot more issues with chips here



a quick run ot the dyno, or an emissions test will tell you if you are running lean or rich or not - if the car revs to the specified redline, and your mixture looks great on an A/F meter, then i would say you're fine



as for disadvantage, well, there is the new and better RS Barn software out there, but due to your location, and the inherant import cost issues, balanced against what additional power you would get in return, unless you are racing, or running at the top end limits, i don't recommend changing, unless you are also going to do more mods

[right][post="17690"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]





flash....Where is the ECU number ? If it's on the Bosch sticker on top of the DME control box under the passenger floor carpet then I will have to look at the weekend.

My car was manufactured in Feb 1992 to Japanese spec. and imported into the UK in April 2003 so have no history before then.

I presume the ECU and # 1473 factory chip are original as there were no visible signs of prior removal of the DME/ECU when I fitted the Promax chip a few weeks ago.

There have been no reported problems with this chip in the Uk and we use Shell Optimax 98 RON.



Cheers Shaun.

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[flash]

it should be on the outside of the ECU - mine was - it will be interesting to see what you find



i've also not heard of any problems with that chip over there

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