[flash]

lol - it was about anomalies of the tiptronic.

 

as for the memory of the unit, in some purely subjective testing, i have been able to nail it down to about 5 minutes before it "forgets".

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[az968]

How quickly does it "relearn" a previously more aggressive shift pattern, e.g. if you had been driving on pattern 3 and it defaulted to 1, will it quickly go back to 3?

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[flash]

a couple of minutes of driving hard enough to warrant pattern 3.  it's really pretty frustrating, having driven newer cars.  however, compared to older automatics, it's a world apart

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[968Syncro]

I always wished that the car had a manual selector on the dash/console to simply pick the shift map the driver would like.  But I understand an argument whey it wasn't included, if the reason is "who cares" .... simply put the pedal to the metal and you'll get the best results at any point in time.

 

Around town I sometimes drive in "3" when I want it to be a bit peppier immediately which in traffic is rarely over 45-50 mph.

 

And I'll often use "3" in freeway traffic also especially when it is really slow, such as too slow for 2nd gear.  It probably doesn't really help, but clearly there is less binding force in the drive train in first gear than 2nd gear.   Would be an interesting test for Dan with the idle problem, to see how the idle RPMs are in first vs second gear.

 

Also, reminder to everyone about the lateral acceleration sensor function.  It ensures that the Tip doesn't shift gears in corners;  I test that function every once in a while when I think of it, and it works on my car.  Not a subject related to the original subject in this thread, about idle RPMs, can't see how this sensor would be related to the idle question.

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[ds968]

Also, reminder to everyone about the lateral acceleration sensor function.  It ensures that the Tip doesn't shift gears in corners;  I test that function every once in a while when I think of it, and it works on my car.  

 

Good point - especially with a supercharger I'm not sure I'd want to test what happens if it downshifts two gears when you're not completely out of the corner and stomp on it.. my rear tires are only 255s   :glare: .  

But considering the crack found in a fairly new flex plate ( less than two years old, and not that many miles..) I'm not sure I'd want to allow that two gears shifting to happen , under any situations..     

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[ds968]

The last couple of days I had to use the windshield defogger and holy crap ! ..the moment I push the switch the RPM plunges by 200-300 rpm. ( this is on the tiptronic ) And I thought turning the AC on resulted in too much of a drop..little did I know there's something far more potent ! BTW, no rpm drop at all using just the fan, so it's only the AC and now the newly discovered and much worse defogger system. When I got home I started the six speed to test its defogger but that resulted in a very minor impact by comparison ; maybe 50 rpm , definitely less than 100, same as turning on the AC. . So it's definitely a thing with the tip. Could this be ICV related ? ( I know I have one that's going bad so after I replace it we'll see if anything changes ). Otherwise, anything else with that defogger blower that can cause such an impact ?

Heck, if I turn the AC and the defogger on simultaneously the car will stall !

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[flash]

what happens on the voltmeter?

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[ds968]

Do you mean the instrument gauge volt reading ?  Or,  if you're talking about an external voltmeter I'll have to test that when I get home.    

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[flash]

instrument gauge is fine.  looking for a change

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[ds968]

big change :  approx 1 whole volt .   for the AC it's about 1/3 of that..

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[flash]

just spoke to dan on the phone.  just checked the white car.  both cars are normal.  the defroster puts the same load on the engine as the AC with it on full cold and fan at 4.

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[ds968]

Somewhat relieved to hear this is not entirely out of the ordinary, particularly knowing how fine-tuned and in perfect running order your cars always are, so the comparison of my car's symptoms was vis-a'-vis the " gold standard " ; I'd expect a reasonable deviation right off the bat        I went back to the car to test all those things once again ; ( and this was at idle, of course ).    Turning on just the ventilation fan at any speed, including at the max setting (IIII)  does not even budge either the voltage gauge needle, or the rpm, one bit.  Turning the AC on , the voltage drop is about 0.5 , and the rpm drop is close to 100.    Turning on the windshield defogger drops a full volt, and drops the rpm by more than 200..pushing almost on 300, so lets just say 250.              

 

But then again, we learned that no two 968s  operate exactly the same , tolerances are different , and even minor deviations can result in significant reactions , so as long as they're within the parameters which are considered " normal " , or at least not alarming, i guess we just learn to live with these things ..       

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[flash]

that's a lot of rpm drop.  i don't have that but then this car is not supercharged.  i am surprised that the voltmeter doesn't drop on the fan though.  it should.  my blue car did too.

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[Bulti]

Could it be the alternator isn't up to the task anymore?

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[flash]

that was a question i asked too, given the noises and other issues.  i think he is planning on changing it.  the thing is i can't see why it would drop the rpm so much.  i think he has a couple of unrelated things going on at the same time

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[Bulti]

Maybe the bearings have failed and there is a serious drag at high load or something? Just thinking out loud.

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[ds968]

That's the suspicion.. Planning to have the alternator replaced ( seems to be the predominant source of my cold starts rattling noise, and that by itself drives me nuts ) and we'll see how many , if any , problems that solves.     

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[ds968]

Here's the latest : the primitive "blink" test does not find any fault codes , the Durametric also did not come up with anything , so I had a Bosch computer system diagnosis test done and one ( the only ) fault code which showed up was : " closed loop system " No idea what that means .??


Reminder re the symptom : the first start in cold weather causes a very rough idle , the car needs at least two or three minutes to warm up or otherwise if just drive it right away, the moment it comes to the first stop the rpm drops to the point where it'll stall . A sticky ICV has been a suspect for a while because of a few previous fault codes coming up as " oxygen ANALYZER " , but now since not even the fancy computer shows any faults, it's back to the mystery zone ..

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[flash]

have you changed the O2 sensor yet?  both "closed loop" and "oxygen analyzer" point to that

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[ds968]

I believe so , but will check . The oxygen sensor has its own fault code , which should be triggered if it's going bad . Oxygen analyzer code , by itself , typically points the finger at the MAF ( according to my mechanic ). The " closed loop readout " appeared with the engine off so just the ignition key on while running the diagnostics .

This car runs like a Swiss clock after it warms up two or three minutes . If it was an O2, or the MAF, the car would exhibit symptoms pretty much all the time, not just on cold morning starts, wouldn't it ?

I'm still thinking it's the ICV, but maybe just not in bad enough of a shape to light up a fault code ..


I also recall a discussion last year with tne mechanic who rebuilt my engine and he thought it's also possible it could be a coolant temp sensor , which once it warms up a bit, it's fine but could cause issues on cold starts only. I never followed up on that, got sidetracked hunting for all the other possible culprits .

." Coolant temp sensor " ? Where is that located ?

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