Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

things that resonate with me.....or don't
#21

[quote name='tamathumper' timestamp='1364589081' post='140745']

Do the coupes have the hatch tripwire in the rear fender like the cabs? If so, pop the door vent and voila.

[/quote]



No, Coupe rear hatch emergency release cable is in the rear hatch.....put the seats down, crawl through, pull carpet down and it's near the backside of the lock cylinder. Oh how I WISH it was like the Cab.........
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

1992 Slate Gray Coupe over Carrera Gray Full Leather interior....1 of 1

2006 Cayenne S Icelandic Silver Titanium Edition

2006 Cayman S Seal Gray over Black
Reply
#22

ordered it online ( via Amazon ) from Car Audio Dealers - $ 98. 54" x 32" X .045" 12 sq ft
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#23

that's quite a savings. cool.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply
#24

Saw it as low as $ 78 and change on E-Bay, of coarse that was after I had ordered it for $96.00.

~tom
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

997 C2S

GMC Sonoma SLS, dd

Miata LS, Cheap Thrills

Acura TL, Wifes dd, zzzzzzz

1993 Red 968 M030, after 18 yrs, gone but not forgotten
Reply
#25

So any thoughts/updates on the effectiveness of this after some extended road trips (Paso) - Tom/Dan?

Do you notice any marked reduction in road rumble in a coupe?



Sam
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#26

[quote name='EEZATOY' timestamp='1368806343' post='142824']

So any thoughts/updates on the effectiveness of this after some extended road trips (Paso) - Tom/Dan?

Do you notice any marked reduction in road rumble in a coupe?

Sam

[/quote]



Yes, I did notice a decent reduction ( perhaps as much as 20 % less noise ) with this. I'd have to say though that the combination of the dynamat extreme and the dynapad translated to probably a 50% noise reduction in the coupe.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#27

I am so glad I found this thread! After my cancer treatment in '06, I have a horrible tinnitus in my head as well as having all my high frequency hearing being gone from the chemotherapy. Anything I can do to mitigate noise helps me hear better and works with my hearing aids.

I hate rattles and other noises. If I can use this stuff to my advantage with the hearing, so much the better.

I used to love listening to the exhaust on my Harley (even though it is stock) but now it just wears me out, so I totally get what Flash is talking about.

I still don't have my car yet (still in the shop - hope to get it Weds or Thurs of this week) but you guys have helped more than you can ever know. Reading all this has been a real education!!!!



Thanks for everything!!



Ed
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#28

I'm very much interested to install dynapad in my coupe. I already have dynamat extreme in my trunk area including spare/storage wells. So far from reading, I see dynapad do not have adhesive back. So what's the best way of installing/stick dynapad? Pics from coupe please.



Thanks.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Guards Red/Cashmere Coupe, 6 Speed, 17" Wheels
Reply
#29

OK guys I'm a bit confused. I'm interested in installing this Dynapad product in the rear hatch area of my coupe. That would include the side cubbies, side quarter walls, spare tire well and of course the floor. Do I need to use both the dynamat extreme and the Dynapad or can I use just Dynapad? How much is needed for the coupe installation and do the vertical pieces need to be glued in place? I'm interested in reducing the road noise in the rear chamber of the coupe.

Thanks, Carl
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

1992, Guards Red, Coupe, 6 spd., LSD, Drilled frt. rotors,
Reply
#30

Any chance of a photo how to by one of the experts here?
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#31

post #16 shows the finished product in my car. i think somebody else put some pics up in another thread. there really should be a DIY, but i don't think anybody has put together a PDF file yet, so this stuff tends to get buried. but, that's what search is for. just remember to use the extra options.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply
#32

So thinking about pulling my carpet - yes I know big messy/hard gluey job - but if I do I am thinking about linning the floor boards/tub with either dynamat or dynapad...before replacing the carpet. They seem simular in weight pad is thicker - but would there be a greater sound reduction from one or the other? The dynamat would seem easier (adhesive backing and thinner) or a combination depending on location...



Any thoughts appreicated



Thanks Sam
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#33

i would do both, wherever possible. if i ever get the nerve to tackle the insane glue that holds down the carpet, that's what i am going to do. my experience with the tunnel carpet has pretty much scared me off though.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply
#34

Flash,



How much does all this Dynamat stuff weigh? In total, how much weight do you figure you've added to the car in the sound deadening exercise?



Mikey
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#35

probably 25-30# all together. since i have the supercharger, i don't even notice. it's negligible, considering i have likely 70# of stereo, and 35# of braces, and it's spread out across the car pretty evenly.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply
#36

Thanks Bob, Kinda what I figured - its a possible summer project so we will see if I get up the nerve to tackle it....
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#37

I did the interior on my '58 TR3A last fall. FWIW, instead of the usual underlayment material, I used water heater blanket from Home Depot. Very similar material with a foil lining on one side. About $35 to do the whole car. MUCH lighter than the dynamat I used on my 968's doors when I installed new speakers. I've head others claim it helps with sound, though I really can't tell as the Triumph is essentially a 4-wheeled motorcycle - open, windy and noisy any way you look at it. It does help to keep the tunnel from getting hot on my leg, a common TR3 affliction.



Bill
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

'93 Horizon Blue Metallic Cab

'58 Triumph TR3A (sold)

'06 Lexus RX400h Hybrid

Lots of guitars
Reply
#38

there is a real science to sound deadening material. while sound energy can be expressed as heat, what a sound deadening material does differs greatly from what a heat insulator does. with sound, you deaden it. with heat, you block it.



the other issue is the physics of the energy. with sound, things move. it takes mass or elastic material to deal with that. with heat, that isn't the case, and very effective heat barriers can be created with very little mass.



something is better than nothing, but i've tested just about everything. lead is best, but not practical. the dynamat products are better than the others on the market that i have seen so far. they are pricey though.



i'm pulling the rear side panels out in the next few days, and adding some more material over the wheel wells to deal with that noise penetration point. i know it works well, as i've already done it in another car. then i plan to but a buffer in between the 2 floor panels of the car (a cab thing only). that should knock out a lot of the floor resonance.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
Reply
#39

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1395339487' post='156089']

i would do both, wherever possible. if i ever get the nerve to tackle the insane glue that holds down the carpet, that's what i am going to do. my experience with the tunnel carpet has pretty much scared me off though.

[/quote]



Flash,



It is indeed insane glue. I'd love to know what Porsche uses to glue that carpet down, I could use it to build a skyscraper. I had to cut pieces of carpet out then peel off the glue on the door sills and rear wheel arches to weld the attachment plates in for the roll cage. It's some incredible type of contact cement, actually lost a fair amount of skin pulling it off in a giant gluey snot ball. I can't imagine EVER trying to replace ALL the carpet in one of these cars.



Mikey
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#40

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1395440416' post='156150']

there is a real science to sound deadening material. while sound energy can be expressed as heat, what a sound deadening material does differs greatly from what a heat insulator does. with sound, you deaden it. with heat, you block it.



the other issue is the physics of the energy. with sound, things move. it takes mass or elastic material to deal with that.....something is better than nothing, but i've tested just about everything. lead is best, but not practical. the dynamat products are better than the others on the market that i have seen so far. they are pricey though.

[/quote]





Flash,



I know I mentioned CAE previously, but folks tended to discount their products as perhaps overly hyped. Not my experience, I use their stuff on everything, but most folks seem to think Dynamat is the best answer. However I'd like to point out one of CAE's products I really like for firewalls and floorboards. VB-3



http://cascadeaudio....ontrol/vb_3.htm



It's two 1/8" neoprene foam layers sandwiched around a 15 mil lead septum. It really does do a fantastic job. Give it a look, just suggesting Dynamat isn't the only, or even the best answer to each problem.



Mikey
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread / Author Replies Views Last Post

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)