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Thin wrenches
#1

I want my rear suspension set up properly again, but some special tools are needed:



Special tool P221 (aquired)



A 27 mm and 36 mm thin wrench.



The wrenches will be standard tools grinded down to the maximum thickness.





My question: does anyone know the maximum thickness for these?



Thanks!
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#2

Not off hand, Philippe, but you can use a feeler gage to measure the max thickness needed.



Cheers,

Larry
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#3

Just remember to grind them sloooooow or the hear will damage the integrity of the metal.
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#4

I'm sorry MCL, 'the hear'?... Is that some kind of metal slicer? The dictionary is failing on me :-)
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#5

Sorry, the heat, not the hear, will cause the metal to lose integrity or temper. So grind, cool, repeat until it is thin enough to do what you need it to do. I do this to make pedal and bearing wrenches to work on bikes. If you are careful to keep it very cool when grinding the wrench will still work fine and not spread under load.
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#6

Okido, got it
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#7

I use a bicycle wrench. You should not be using a lot of force.



For the ride height, you can jam the spring plate with some square stock so when you jack up the car the spring plate gets locked, then you do not have to fight the torsion bar when you adjust the ride height eccentric. You stab it in like you are trying to stab the torsion bar.
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#8

Bicycle wrench? I will check if they got the correct sizes and the thickness of those. Thanks Joel!
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#9

Yes the 36mm I think it is a headset wrench but there are also automotive fan clutch wrenches that are the same size.



Hit everything with penetrating oil a few times ahead of the job, then break loose the eccentrics first (I use an impact wrench) and then snug them again before loosening the non-eccentric bolts so you do not lose your alignment settings. Do not change settings until you are sure all the bolts can be loosened. Also loosen the rear drop link upper bolt so the camber eccentric can function without winding up that rubber bushing.





In the attached pic you can see the spring plate you want to jam for ride height adjustment. You want to jam the U shaped plate (steel with two bolts through it) so it cannot move relative to the cast aluminum carrier on the right of the picture while allowing the steel part to which it is bolted to move up and down. I do this with a piece of square stock inserted into the gap, sorta opposite that "477" part number. Does that make sense? You have to do this with the suspension loaded and then when you unload it, the stock gets trapped by the rotating blade. This is great because then when you adjust the ride height eccentric you do not have to fight the torsion bar. Otherwise with the suspension hanging the eccentric will turn to full drop once it's loose.
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#10

This picture will help a lot! A specialised shop will handle the corner balancing and wheel allignment, but although they prepare all kinds of cars for racing, the 968 remains a rare beastie.



Thanks to this info I can prepare (read: loosen and tighten) the bolts in advance and prepare the car. This way I hope to avoid at least some of the surprises the car will throw at them and subsequently save some time and money.



More money to sent over to Flash... How does he keep doing that? ;-)





Anyways: another BIG thank you Joel







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#11

Folks,



Can anyone please enlighten me? I have the car raised, but still can't figure how, where (and why for that matter) I need a 24, 27 and 36 THIN wrench to anything? The suspension people need all three sizes?



Maybe a pic to avoid any confusion would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks!



Ps: are these special tools? My thinest wrenches are about 11 mm thick...
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#12

I actually use bike tools for the 35-36mm and the 24 and 27 are pretty readily available through Arnnworks or other actual Porsche parts suppliers. The eccentrics on the camber and toe are easier to work with using thin wrenches.



They are needed for doing belts too. 24mm for the elder 944s and 27 for the later cars. Thin offset.
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#13

Still confused I am... Like in the picture above, the nuts are pretty accessible?? Why the special tools? Can you only adjust these with the wheels supporting the car so they dissapear behind the chassis or something like that?



Sorry for the probably dumb question...
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#14

[Image: t52002000lg_zps609932b7.jpg]



Stoddard has an 4 piece oil line wrench set http://www.stoddard.com/t52-002-000-oil-wrench-set.html
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#15

The eccentrics are located on the back side of the spring plates. I have my car up in the air and will try to take a decent picture for you. You'll see that access is fairly limited and you need multiple sizes.
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#16

Thanks Joel, appreciate it!m





FYI: my thinnest wrenches are about 11 mm thick, wich is thinner than the ones in picture above if I'm not mistaken...
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#17

Here are the pics. The eccentric toward the front of the car is 24mm, the center is 36mm, and the sway bar is 27mm...
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#18

I forgot to thank you!



Hereby: thanks for the pics :-)
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#19

No worries. Hope they helped.
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