Yes the 36mm I think it is a headset wrench but there are also automotive fan clutch wrenches that are the same size.
Hit everything with penetrating oil a few times ahead of the job, then break loose the eccentrics first (I use an impact wrench) and then snug them again before loosening the non-eccentric bolts so you do not lose your alignment settings. Do not change settings until you are sure all the bolts can be loosened. Also loosen the rear drop link upper bolt so the camber eccentric can function without winding up that rubber bushing.
In the attached pic you can see the spring plate you want to jam for ride height adjustment. You want to jam the U shaped plate (steel with two bolts through it) so it cannot move relative to the cast aluminum carrier on the right of the picture while allowing the steel part to which it is bolted to move up and down. I do this with a piece of square stock inserted into the gap, sorta opposite that "477" part number. Does that make sense? You have to do this with the suspension loaded and then when you unload it, the stock gets trapped by the rotating blade. This is great because then when you adjust the ride height eccentric you do not have to fight the torsion bar. Otherwise with the suspension hanging the eccentric will turn to full drop once it's loose.