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The Proper Way to Get (your car) High
#1

I have read a few old threads about jacking points, and some have stated that jacking the front of the car up using the front cross-member is preferred to using the side jacking points.

 

This would be preferable for me if it is, in fact, safe. Placing the jack stands under the jacking points is impossible if there is already a jack there, and jacking the car up using the jacking points and then using wheel blocks is also great, unless you are working on the brakes.

 

Anyone out there with experience on this subject? As it stands now (pun intended) getting the front end of the car high enough to work on using the jacking points takes a lot of time and if one uses wheel blocks one cannot remove the wheels.

 

Thanks!

 

Matt

 

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1992 968 Cabriolet

Volvo S60 Turbo AWD

Lexus RX 300 AWD

 
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#2

Send me your email and I will send you two pics.
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#3

Matt, I sent you a pic that should help.
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#4

I just recently saw these jack stands the other day, they look genius.  https://youtu.be/yqXIrSVQ3ts?t=20s
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Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
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#5

I like those!

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Kim Strong, Nova Scotia

Baron of Bugtussle and Lord of Wigtownshire, Scotland

2022 Mustang Mach-E
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#6

Thanks Bob and Bob. The pics will be helpful, as I seriously hate getting this car off of the ground to work on it.

 

M-
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1992 968 Cabriolet

Volvo S60 Turbo AWD

Lexus RX 300 AWD

 
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#7

not liking the idea of supporting the car on the pinch weld.  i've bent that before.  one good sideways lean or whatever, and i would be worried about bending it and the car falling.  but then, i'm a safety worry wart when it comes to jacking up a car, and working underneath it because i've had a car fall on me once, and a transmission once, severing the tendons in my right hand on that one.

 

jacking up this car is really not all that hard.  the jack points are fine.  in the front, then you support the car on stands at the caster blocks, or preferably the frame rails (watch out for the fuel lines).  you just have to use cradle stands, and not the cheap round ones.  in the rear, you can support the car on the torsion tubes with cradle stands.  not a big deal.

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#8

The have different saddles for that jack stand, the pinch weld one is the one they are using for the demo, apparently on that car the manual says to use the pinch weld.
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Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
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#9

that would make me very nervous.  might work fine, but you won't see me getting under there.  i don't like having any chance of lateral shift, and with as many cars as i have seen with that sheet metal bent........  i don't like being under a car at all, and i'll be darned sure if i do have to do it, that it is extremely safe.  i'm just paranoid that way, due entirely to experience.

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#10

That stand is nice but you could never get one under my car. I can barely get the jack alone under there much less that adapter.

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92 968 cab (cobalt blue/black top/grey int)

87 944S

19 Audi A6 3.0T

03 Toyota Tundra

 
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#11

Get a four post lift...with the added benefit of having room for another car in your garage.  As they say, you can't buy happiness, but you can buy another car...
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#12

Hey Bobs rap and az

Why just share pictures offsite?

Please post for all to see?
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#13

I find the jack points on the 968 and 944 inadequate. I've seen several partially collapsed. The P.O.

replaced one front jack point on my 968. My opinion is (not worth much) that Porsche could have

done a better job with these.They just seem rather flimsy. I have a four post lift so I avoid using the

jack points. If I'm dealing with tires, I always remove them and take them to the shop.

I don't like them using the jack points.


I too am overly cautious about a car falling on me. I got a set of stands for Christmas last year that

I returned because I didn't like the welds.  

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#14

many people use the wrong jack.  you cannot use the cheap 2.5" puck you find on your basic pepboys jack.  you have to have a 4"-5" puck, with a flat surface, like on a race jack.  

 

better still, you should have the jack insert designed for those lift points.  it is a disk with a "pin" shaped like the slot in the lift point.

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#15

Quote:Get a four post lift...with the added benefit of having room for another car in your garage.  As they say, you can't buy happiness, but you can buy another car...
 

This 100% - great investment.
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#16

Heck, I don't even feel safe under a car that's on a hoist ! I'd have to have one of those sub-floor standing work areas / ditches ( you see at all those quick oil change shops ) built in my garage, to feel comfortable getting under a vehicle .
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#17

When I was a kid, my dad had a barn with a pit.  (he, unfortunately, had an obsession with British cars back then)

 

I like pits and agree that they're safer than jacks/jack stands, except you can't adjust the height like a lift.

 

And, actually, if I was to build a new house or garage, I've thought about putting one in...Although, you'll still have the problem working with the wheels removed to fix things like wheel bearings, etc..
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#18

I've been wanting to try one of these, or I guess two are required for full car lift.   It is a single bar that lifts the car from both jack points at the same time, and then the jack stands are placed under the bar at those same jack points.

 

http://www.liftbars.com/

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Roland

'93 Coupe Tip Silver on Grey, '02 911 C4S, '89 Vanagon Syncro -- (RIP: 944, 911SC, 931, MGB, VW Bug, GTO, Sprite.)
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#19

Quote:I've been wanting to try one of these, or I guess two are required for full car lift.   It is a single bar that lifts the car from both jack points at the same time, and then the jack stands are placed under the bar at those same jack points.

 

http://www.liftbars.com/
 

I'm SOLD! We need to make these for the 968. What a great and simple idea.
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1992 968 Cabriolet

Volvo S60 Turbo AWD

Lexus RX 300 AWD

 
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#20

Quote:I've been wanting to try one of these, or I guess two are required for full car lift.   It is a single bar that lifts the car from both jack points at the same time, and then the jack stands are placed under the bar at those same jack points.

 

http://www.liftbars.com/
 

That would be Ken, he is big the 928 scene, I run his chips in my 928. Really nice guy, up in the Oregon area.
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Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
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