[Scott Collins]

Hey Friends,



Got a curious problem - the car starts on the 2nd attempt. I turn the key once and the engine turns but does not catch. On the 2nd try, she'll start up.



Any thoughts?



Thanks.



-scott

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[jaacco]

Is it occasional or every time?



Some possible culprits:



-Bad fuel pressure regulator

-Leaky fuel injector(s)

-Bad hall sender

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[94SilverCab]

Corroded wires on your starter

Need for "Higher Connections" cables

DME Relay (the usual suspect any time the car doesn't start for any reason)



Jay

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[Scott Collins]

It's about 90 % of the time if the car has been sitting, like overnight. Not quite 100 %. If I run her, then turn off the ignition, then quickly turn the ignition again, she will start right up.



But either way, it's not an immediate start up like about 2 weeks ago. Used to be that the engine would fire immediately.



.

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[flash]

too rich? some chips will do that



leaky check valve



low compression due to sticky ring

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[Cloud9...68]

Do you hear a whirring sound coming from the starter after it fails to catch on the first attempt? You didn't mention it, but mine did that when I first got it. Turned out to be gummy starter syndrome, which I cured by doing the starter disassembly and clean.

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[tamathumper]

I have the Gummy Starter Syndrome right now, especially in wet weather. I was going to do "the fix" as posted herein, but I ordered a rebuilt Bosch instead, and I'll do the refresh on the one I take off. +1 on the "whirr" sound after an initial catch and engine turnover.

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[Scott Collins]

Thanks for the help guys.



The starter seems to be doing it's job, getting the engine to turn - don't think it's that, unless the starter should be doing something else as well.



I'll have to look at replacing the check valve - where is it?



I pulled the spark plugs and noticed some gunk along the washer that compresses into the bottom of the cam cover when you torque the plugs down. Some gunk had also collected along the cam cover surface ridge where the washer would mate with the cam cover. Maybe this is a source for loss of compression?



Obviously, I could change the plugs, but with the gunk still collected in the space where the washer would crush in, I imagine that I might still not have an airtight seal.

My guess is that I just need to pull the cam cover and get it on the bench for the cleaning.



Also, forgot to mention, I replace the vario cam solenoid about 3 months ago because it was leaking oil right through the top of it. Replaced all of the gaskets and well. Leaked no more oil for about 2 months, and started leaking again at beginning of June. Noticed high oil pressure at times, and don't think that two solenoids would both be bad. Any possible connection? I use a Canton spin on type filter and wonder if that is causing higher than desirable oil pressure. Thought?

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[DaveN]

2 cents worth. I would check the fuel rail check valve as well, it's supposed to hold pressure so you have some for start-up although I think that was only for 20-30 minutes? FYI I had a bit of weeping from my Variocam solenoid as well so I replaced the gasket and O-ring BUT put a thin smear of high temp RTV on both sides of the gasket due to the low torque and therefore low compression on the gasket.

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[Scott Collins]

Thanks, Dave. I used the RTV as well, but still have the weeping from the Variocam solenoid. Glad it stopped it for you though.



I'm going out now to pop the hood and start checking things out.



-Scott

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[DaveN]

You did change the O-ring as well right?

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[Grandpa#3]

The Fuel Pump Check Valve is located on the out flow side of the Fuel Pump. Its main job is to keep pressure in the fuel line for the next start up. Located aft and inboard of the right rear passenger tire and should have a black cover over it. IIRC, you need to order the Check Valve and three crush washers. While you are at that spot change out the Fuel Line Filter. The Oil Filter should be a Mahle #OC142 as it has a built in check valve. Low or High Oil Pressure can be caused by a sticky OPRV (Oil Pressure Relief Valve) and it takes an O-Ring on the end and one Crush Washer under the head.



Cheers,

Larry

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[Scott Collins]

Dave - I replaced both the o-ring and paper gasket when I replaced the solenoid, and used a light coating of RTV.



Larry - thanks for the help with the location and info. I'll order the fuel filter, check valve, and the crush washers Mon and also change out the oil filter from the Canton back to OEM. The fuel filter has about 40K miles on it, so that's definitely time for a new one. We'll see at that point if the condition has been corrected.



Thanks everyone.

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[TonD]

Scott, I am chasing (more passively at the moment though) a similar problem, and would like to hear if the check valve replacement helped? It's my prime suspect at the moment, too.

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[DaveN]

I just received my X-mas presents from Paragon <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> and in there is a fuel check valve. I have had the nagging issue of the engine not catching right away as well. Problem is I won't be buttoning up the engine and kicking it over until spring so I won't have any feedback until then.

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[TonD]

Chances are fairly high I'm still interested in the feedback, then <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> While mine is fully operational at the moment, it's not seeing much/any use with our stormy wet weather as of late... Bring on spring!

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[unknown4u]

One other question: Have we changed the DME relay? Seems to me that the problem is occured by not triggering the "idle control valve" try before starting to jumper the two point of the dme circuit.

a faulty dme gives the same symptoms. And is easier to replace than checking al the other components.



Do you have a 993 dme?

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