[PorscheDude]

[quote name='flash' post='48716' date='Mar 5 2008, 08:58 AM']yeah - i was referring to the story of the little girl who, after watching a bunch of "experts" try to figure out how to get a truck unstuck from an overpass, spoke up and said "why don't you just let the air out of the tires"



i suppose i could also have just referred to occam's razor[/quote]

Thats funny, that the first thing that came to my mind.

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[Todd951968]

Thanks for the tip, FLASH. Is an alignment necessary after changing out struts? I am planning to change mine out along with the sway bars sometime soon. But, I am CURRENTLY getting new tires installed....I dont' want to pay for an alighnment twice.. Thanks

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[flash]

YES! - due to the removal of the camber adjustment bolt, you need an alignment afterward

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[Gentleman Driver]

[quote name='FRporscheman' post='45541' date='Jan 11 2008, 04:22 AM']The "special tool" needed for holding the strut shaft can be substituted by a standard 22mm offset box wrench. But more along the lines of the "proper" tool would be a 22mm oxygen-sensor wrench. Personally I actually think the offset wrench works better... YMMV.[/quote]



I am about to perform the re-install and I need this tool. Where can I pick one up?



Thanks!!!!

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[banditsc]

The oxygen sensor wrench or socket can be bought from Paragon, but that will not help you with Koni's, only the removal of the old struts. When I assembled mine, I did it with the struts in the car so there was weight on it, thus pushing on the strut and used a quick blip of the impact gun to snug down the nut.

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[Gentleman Driver]

[quote name='banditsc' post='50135' date='Apr 1 2008, 03:39 PM']The oxygen sensor wrench or socket can be bought from Paragon, but that will not help you with Koni's, only the removal of the old struts. When I assembled mine, I did it with the struts in the car so there was weight on it, thus pushing on the strut and used a quick blip of the impact gun to snug down the nut.[/quote]



OK, unfortunately I don't have an impact gun... is there no specific torque to this nut? I hope I can complete without a special tool...

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[banditsc]

I'm no expert here, only did it once, hopefully someone will chime in. But with the struts in and the car on the ground, thus putting weight on the struts, the strut should be pretty much all the way thru the hole. It is fastened down with the nut and lock washers, so that lock washer should be compressed down basically flat when it's good and tight.

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[doggonit]

I'm not sure where you are located, but I use a loaner O2 toolset from my local Autozone. Perhaps one of your local auto parts stores have loaner tool programs. Basically you pay for it up front and return whenever you are done with it for a full refund.

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[Gentleman Driver]

[quote name='doggonit' post='50145' date='Apr 1 2008, 05:06 PM']I'm not sure where you are located, but I use a loaner O2 toolset from my local Autozone. Perhaps one of your local auto parts stores have loaner tool programs. Basically you pay for it up front and return whenever you are done with it for a full refund.[/quote]

OK, so I do need the special tool to re-install the strut? Sounds like some use it and others don't... and just torque the top nut until the shaft starts to spin...

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[banditsc]

[quote name='The Gentleman Driver' post='50148' date='Apr 1 2008, 06:31 PM']OK, so I do need the special tool to re-install the strut? Sounds like some use it and others don't... and just torque the top nut until the shaft starts to spin...[/quote]



No, you actually can't use the special tool on the Koni struts. The top of the Koni strut is the slot for adjusting the strut, unlike the original struts which have a allen head that you can use to hold the strut assembly while you spin the nut on the top of the strut.

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[Gentleman Driver]

[quote name='banditsc' post='50151' date='Apr 1 2008, 05:56 PM']No, you actually can't use the special tool on the Koni struts. The top of the Koni strut is the slot for adjusting the strut, unlike the original struts which have a allen head that you can use to hold the strut assembly while you spin the nut on the top of the strut.[/quote]



Understand. Sorry, I meant a special tool like an O2 sensor socket. You can still hold the insert as it does have the flat surface at the top, just not the same as the allen head on the original...

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[Rudolf968]

I just changed my old front struts with new KW V3 (rear will follow in a week, with reindexing TB).

The old shocks were totally gripped, so that's why my car felt so harsh with the standard suspension.

I didn't need spring compressors, thanks to Flash for dealing his experiances.

To separate the mounting top, the 22 mm bolt was not willing to lose and by using a lot of force I rounded the little hexagone hole in the shaft. I then decided to make 2 flat surfaces on the shock shaft (the old shocks are obsolete, so it don't matters) and put a vice gip on it --> then the 22 mm nut loosend easyly.

To thighten the 22 mm nut on the new shocks I used alot of elastic rubber wrapped around the shock shaft and put the vise grip on the rubber being shure not to damage the new shaft. It did the job quiet well.

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[Steve]

Hi Everyone,

I have been through a ringer the last six months. Found out I have stage 4 Kidney Cancer in April and had my left kidney pulled in March and have been on a special medication that stops blood vessel growth ever since. I feel great now and here is the one and only thing that was a good thing. I lost 50 lbs! I would not recommend my diet plan.

Anyway, I finally have enough strength to get into the front end of my car to replace the struts. I pulled the sway bar and used my impact gun to get the top nut off of the strut. I pulled the strut and got the new strut in place but I just don't like the idea of using the impact gun to put the strut nut back on. What do you guys use of this? I can imagine that a deep offset crows foot would allow me to keep an allen in the strut shaft while you tighten the nut but where can you find such a thing?
And... do you need the sponge cushion that is on the strut shaft? If so where can you get those?

Thanks in advance.

Steve Patrick

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[flash]

there is a tool for this, but i don't use it

first i put a jack under the control arm and push the strut up as much as it will go without raising the car

then i use the impact gun, set on low, and in short bursts, watching the shaft for rotation

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[Steve]

Thanks,
And do you think I need the cushion?

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[flash]

if you are referring to the bump stop that goes between the top of the strut and the bottom of the strut tower bearing, yes

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[banditsc]

He's referring to that little piece of foam that goes between the body and the upper strut bearing. Not really sure of it's purpose, nothing that would change the performance of the strut. Maybe paint protection or something, not sure.

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[flash]

re-read the end of post #33

there would be no reason to remove the strut tower bearing to change the struts, so no reason to deal with the foam liner below it

i think he is referring to the bump stop that goes on the shaft of the strut between the top of the strut and the bottom of the strut bearing - the stock one is orange foam

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[Steve]

Yes, mine are falling apart so I got a couple from Paragon.

https://www.paragon-products.com/ProductDet...P951.343.527.00

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[Steve]

Okay, so now I have an old set of Boge/Sachs struts that are worth something to someone who would like to convert then to accept Koni cartridges.
I just spent about $500 to buy two new Sachs. The way folks go on about the Koni conversion it sounds like I will be installing struts that will cause my car to handle like a Buick. For street and some spirited canyon carving I can’t imagine there would be that much of a difference. Is there?
If so, perhaps I should do the conversion and dump the Sachs.

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