[blau]

weren't you going to make a cab rear spoiler at some point?

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[flash]

nope - bought one - painted it - still haven't stuck it on the car to see if i like it or not. i should get the car back tomorrow and start putting it back together, and then finally see if i like the spoiler or not.

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[AJG]

[quote name='Cloud9...68' timestamp='1343327241' post='130056']

Any P9201 owners out there willing to ship theirs across the pond so AJG can produce a duplicate? I know it's a lot to ask, and the shipping can't be cheap, but I for one would be glad to pitch in for the shipping cost to help enable the creation of an affordable, accurate, reliable belt tension measurement tool.

[/quote]

I'll stand all the return shipping costs to Bob for instance, as he could be the hub for lending tools out. You could pay Bob thru DR1 for shipping costs. That is if he would be up for that. Remember dear readers that Bob hasn't worn the rubber flash (ha ha) of his tyres yet, he's a busy lad. Some say when he swims underwater he does not need to surface to breath and he can speak to dolphins! All I know is he doesn't drive enough, boom boom!

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[tamathumper]

The ArnnWorx tool, although not a repro of the P9201, is cheap and accurate enough to get the job done... I'm not sure there would be a demand for another belt-tensioning device. Maybe if it was really cheap and really easy to use, but that smacks of serious design work, does it not?

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[Cloud9...68]

Are you confident the Arnworx tool can be cross-calibrated to the P9201? If so, then I agree. But it seems like very time I read a review of that tool, it's loaded with qualifications and caveats. My experience with the P9201 was outstanding - a wonderful design, very simple to use, and no ambiguity to it whatsoever. But my personal opinion is that a tool of some kind is necessary for monitoring the tension of the belt. Otherwise, you're stuck simply guessing when it's time to re-tension it, and then going through the procedure of setting the tension by whatever method you choose, in addition to setting the clearances. A very tedious job - I swear it took me almost as long as it did to time my cams! I would much prefer to have a gauge, test the tension periodically, and re-tension only when the gauge says it's needed.

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[tamathumper]

I've never used the P9201, so I can't or shouldn't say whether or not it can be cross-calibrated. You and I did trade comments about the Arnnworx before, in my thread talking about the Arnnworx and Krickit tools.



http://www.968forums.com/topic/12385-the...msearch__1

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[flash]

ok - i'll step in and say "i'm not likely to do this one". the reason is simple. you only need the gauge once. once you know what the correct tension is, you can feel it, and then set it to that same feel. the gauge simply becomes superfluous at that point. that is, unless you have the sensitivity of a sidewalk in your fingers.



i used to use a tension gauge on tennis strings. after a very short time i was able to tell, within a pound or two, by touch.



if you simply must have a gauge, there are a number of them on the market. no need to reinvent the wheel



i'll now ask that this thread get back on track, so i don't have to dig through 9 pages of things to figure out what i have to do.

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[Cloud9...68]

Discussion on tension gauges moved to the thread on the balance shaft belt

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[flash]

thanks



i forgot to add the AC Delete kit. i'll do that now.

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[banditsc]

Just thought of one, the Stage 2 Front Spoiler Kit.. The derlin strips.

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[flash]

ah! right. i will be working on that so i can install the splitter on my own car, so good call

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[flash]

i also forgot to add that i plan to offer the lower mesh grilles that 968engineering used to make. i just made the template yesterday, and will get it off to the sheet metal shop this next week for quote.



i have not gotten to the upper grille yet.

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[flash]

started making progress on the oil cooler yesterday. looking forward to this one. even if i only do it for my car, it is going to resolve the "sitting in line while your car overheats" issues that so many have on the track. i've done some real "out of the box" thinking on this one, and i can't wait to finish it. i'll start another thread once i have more info to share.



i'll be working out the front tow point today.

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[Lim Yong]

Bump for the battery relocation kit. none else interested?



What's the under body aero kit? for the back of the car??

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[flash]

so far, nobody else willing to spend $350 to move their battery, which is what it takes by the time you are done. the saddle is only the beginning. the connectors, terminal blocks, and cable are the expensive parts.



the underbody kit would flat-bottom the car all the way to the fuel tank. the rear of the car would not benefit from any panels, as the inability to introduce proper curvature, diffusion, and exit at the rear would actually increase rear lift. at low speeds (under 100mph) it might seem fine, but once you get over that, it will get tail happy and you would then have to add a bunch of wing to add downforce, which would then scrub off speed.

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[flash]

got the templates done for the lower grille



got the template done for the splitter protection kit

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[rxter]

Dual exhaust

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[flash]

lol - that's going to wait until after the ortega run. i need to run the car for a little while as is to get it fully broken in. then, after i have incorporated stage 2, i will add dual exhaust and retune AGAIN.

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[BeBe]

Any idea what kind of timeline the lower mesh grilles might be on? I just stopped today to get an estimate on getting my front bumper cover painted and the front splitter painted and installed. The shop was hesitant about custom fabricating the lower mesh grille and would prefer me to provide one that they would install.

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[flash]

i'm set to be dropping off the template on tuesday. i need to see if i need to provide the material or if they will do it. then i can put pricing up.



unlike the previous provider, i plan to powder coat these black as the standard. if somebody wants in uncoated, that's fine, but they will need to let me know.



this should not be a long lead item in any case. it's pretty darned simple.

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