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Re-Indexing Torsion bars - Printable Version

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Re-Indexing Torsion bars - JWahlsten - 08-30-2013

Ink,



If your ride heights are correct, your corner balance is going to be in the ball park for a street car. I set mine up, and put it on the scales and each corner was within 5 lbs of where it should be...It's a well balanced car.



The rear shocks could be basically frozen causing your tail happy attitude. I don't know if your car is on Boges or Konis, but I've personally seen Konis locked up tight as a drum. Not the best for a supple suspension...

Re-Indexing Torsion bars - flash - 08-30-2013

agreed. i hate the koni yellow shocks. they are an inexpensive upgrade if you want something a bit faster acting, but they fail quite a bit, are not as adjustable as i'd like, and make for a bit more of a rough ride than i prefer, due entirely to the banana arm suspension design.



frankly i am am not a fan of any kind of gas shock in the rear. while they can improve things on the track, they all make it too jittery. the OEM shocks ride very nicely and are not that expensive. beyond that, you get into pricey stuff that presents a slippery slope if you want to stay hydraulic.



i'm leaving the white car bone stock when it comes to shocks and struts.

Re-Indexing Torsion bars - AJG - 08-30-2013

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1377823441' post='148356']

i have both the michelin pilot super sports (on the sl-550) and the yokohama advan ad-08 (on the blue 968). i like them both. the michelins are a bit quieter and smoother (not a lot), and are much better in the wet. the yokes are better in the dry. if i ever had to drive the car in the rain, i would choose the michelin. if i knew for certain that the car would never get wet, i'd probably stick with the yoke.



as for the mushy/wandering thing, once you get that thing flat and level, take a really good look at the caster blocks. if there is any play in those (and a power steering leak will make them soft) then they need to be replaced. soft front struts can cause this too. the front end should resist manual compression. if you can get it moving, it should only bounce 1.5 times before coming to rest. (push down, it comes up past zero and settles back to zero)



then look at your settings. there is a thread here with alignment specs, varying based on desired traits. too much camber (very common) or toe out, will cause wandering in a hurry.

[/quote]

That's interesting what you say about Yokohama's, I had them on a Mk1 series 2 MR2 ( metallic blue, nice) along with adjustable shocks of a brand I cant remember, Koni's probably and in the dry rev to 6000, drop the clutch and it was like a bat out of hell (for a 1.6 litre engine) no wheel spin just instant grip. In the wet..mmmh! Short wheel base and soft tyre compounds, spun that one once, felt like a ballerina! Wet performance requires more than just soft compounds, maybe not even that!

Re-Indexing Torsion bars - Inkedupfatboy - 08-30-2013

I am pretty sure the car has oem shocks and struts that are original to the car.



The yoko's are great on my element and so I should have just gone with them.

Re-Indexing Torsion bars - flash - 08-30-2013

don't assume that all yokes are the same. i am referring only to the ADVAN AD-08. uber sticky dry. slicker than deer guts on a door knob wet (though not as bad as the conti extreme contacts).

Re-Indexing Torsion bars - Inkedupfatboy - 08-30-2013

I don't remember what I have on the element. She likes them so that is really what matters.