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Decided to check the function of the LSD this morning. I remember the PO saying something about the springs being bad (which I assume means that is is slipping). Jacked up on one side and, indeed, the wheel is spinning freely without any friction at all. And without any noise too which I guess is a good thing.
Now to the questions. Can the stock LSD be rebuilt? Or should I get better one (assuming that there better ones available)? I do not have any leaks from the tranny, nor do I have any of the dreadful R&P noises. Should I replace the P&P bearing now for safe measure or leave it until it becomes a problem? Can the LSD be removed/installed with the tranny in the car? What other things, except maybe for the R&P bearing, should be adressed if I take the transaxle down?
I wanna do it right but I do not want to replace a lot of working parts just for the sake of replacing them (limited finacial resources) so point me in the right direction please [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
1995 Riviera blue 968CS with LSD, custom LEDA coilovers with t-bar delete, S4 brakes, RS Barn braided lines, Tarett sways, Racers Edge bushings everywhere, Rack Tack, Design 1 braces and short shift kit, air box mod, RS Barn stage 1 chip, RS Barn cat back, RUF BTR2 wheels with Toyo R888, Deutsch Nine TRS version 2 rear wing (carbon fiber), AIR repop splitter (carbon fiber), brake cooling intakes (carbon fiber), Sparco seats and belts, OMP steering wheel and a lot of other little things that I can't recall at the moment...
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It all depends which type of diff you have fitted.
If its a plate LSD then yes its rebuildable. If its the Torsen type [torque biased] then as far as i know its not rebuildable...
Usually the early cars were fitted with "plate" diffs + later cars Torsen diffs...
Yes you can remove + replace the diff whilst the box is in the car. BUT if your doing other seals etc then its better out of the car...
Have you considered the fact that you might not have a LSD .?? I know of a few cars that had the diffs removed [because of costly rebuilding ] + fitted with a standard "open" diff,,even though it had a 220 code on the options list...Just a thought...
Dave W.
95 - 968 Sport with Cup 1,s + 2,s ...
(This post was last modified: 05-05-2009, 01:47 PM by
Big Dave.)
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I sure hope that they have not removed the LSD...
About the gear. I jacked the left rear tire up with the right tire on the ground and trans in neutral. The LSD did not brake as I assumed it would. Should I have done it differentely?
1995 Riviera blue 968CS with LSD, custom LEDA coilovers with t-bar delete, S4 brakes, RS Barn braided lines, Tarett sways, Racers Edge bushings everywhere, Rack Tack, Design 1 braces and short shift kit, air box mod, RS Barn stage 1 chip, RS Barn cat back, RUF BTR2 wheels with Toyo R888, Deutsch Nine TRS version 2 rear wing (carbon fiber), AIR repop splitter (carbon fiber), brake cooling intakes (carbon fiber), Sparco seats and belts, OMP steering wheel and a lot of other little things that I can't recall at the moment...
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<!--quoteo(post=71465:date=May 6 2009, 12:52 PM:name=968gene)-->QUOTE (968gene @ May 6 2009, 12:52 PM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I always thought that you place the car in gear, jack up both rear tires and spin one. The other tire will turn in the same direction if you have an LSD, and in the opposite if non-LSD. If the car has LSD and passes the first test, it should be difficult to turn one tire off the ground if the car is in gear. You may been turning only a neutral transmission. (or I may be completely wrong, anyone else?)<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I usually do that too. But in this case, from what I have read, the idea is to measure the "health" of the LSD by measuring the torque needed to turn one wheel when the other one sits firm on the ground with the engine in neutral. With an open diff the necessary torque is about zero until the prop shaft starts to turn. With a LSD you first have to overcome the limited slip that connects the two wheels. I read somewhere that a fresh LSD takes about a 100 Nm before it slips. In my case it took zero torque so A; it is completely shot or B; it has been removed (worst case I might add).
1995 Riviera blue 968CS with LSD, custom LEDA coilovers with t-bar delete, S4 brakes, RS Barn braided lines, Tarett sways, Racers Edge bushings everywhere, Rack Tack, Design 1 braces and short shift kit, air box mod, RS Barn stage 1 chip, RS Barn cat back, RUF BTR2 wheels with Toyo R888, Deutsch Nine TRS version 2 rear wing (carbon fiber), AIR repop splitter (carbon fiber), brake cooling intakes (carbon fiber), Sparco seats and belts, OMP steering wheel and a lot of other little things that I can't recall at the moment...
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I just drop a patch of rubber on the driveway.................If I get two marks I'm fine
Ross Carley
Newtown, CT 06470
1992 968 Tip. Cab. (Slate Gray) purchased 4/2008
1965 356 SC Coupe (Iight Ivory) purchased 10/1976 $2500 ( now undergoing complete restro help me chose a color)
1970 914-6 (Irish Green) purchased new March 1970 $6800 sold it 10 months later a real POS
1964 356 SC Coupe (Irish Green) purchased 1969 $2700 blew it up on the Tapanzee Bridge 3AM at 90+
1966 Austin Healy 3000 (BRG) purchased 1968 They came as a set $1200 for both
1966 Austin Healy 3000 (Guard Red) purchased 1968 " " " " " " "
1961 Austin Healy 3000 ( Silver Blue) purchased 1967 $400
1953 Le Francis (Le Mans White) 3 speed twin overhead cams purchsed 1966 $600
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<!--quoteo(post=71475:date=May 6 2009, 03:28 PM:name=p92968)-->QUOTE (p92968 @ May 6 2009, 03:28 PM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I just drop a patch of rubber on the driveway.................If I get two marks I'm fine<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Talked to a reputable shop today (works mostly in 997 GT3 Cup though...). Appearantely the stock LSD has very little "pre tension" so you can not determine the condition of the diff by measuring the torque needed to turn the wheel. You can tell wether it has a LSD or not the classic way. Jack the rear up and if the wheels are spinning the same direction OR if the other wheel is standing still = LSD. If it turns the opposite direction = open. The shop also said that it is almost unheard of that the stock style LSD simply breaks and stops doing its job (unless it goes boom and you have a major failure). It is however common that they over time and mileage get weaker and will eventually require a rebuild. It is supposedly hard to measure the status of the LSD without taking it apart and you'll have to push the car in order to find out, ie two black = ok, one black = no ok. Or if the inner tire spins in the turns on the track.
So, since my opposite tire is standing still when turning the wheel it leads me to assume that the 220 option LSD is still in place. I'm way to cheap to simply burn up rubber so that I can count the stripes so I guess I have to find a track instead [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
1995 Riviera blue 968CS with LSD, custom LEDA coilovers with t-bar delete, S4 brakes, RS Barn braided lines, Tarett sways, Racers Edge bushings everywhere, Rack Tack, Design 1 braces and short shift kit, air box mod, RS Barn stage 1 chip, RS Barn cat back, RUF BTR2 wheels with Toyo R888, Deutsch Nine TRS version 2 rear wing (carbon fiber), AIR repop splitter (carbon fiber), brake cooling intakes (carbon fiber), Sparco seats and belts, OMP steering wheel and a lot of other little things that I can't recall at the moment...
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Hey Pete can you check my LSD out while you have the car? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
'95 968 Cabriolet White/Chestnut Brown
'94 968 Cabriolet Midnight Blue/Gray
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That one supposedly has a 220 or 221 option code. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
'95 968 Cabriolet White/Chestnut Brown
'94 968 Cabriolet Midnight Blue/Gray
