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My HC conversion...
#1

I embarked on my AC system today, using the same product and techniques in the HC thread.



Brief Background: I bought this car about two weeks ago, had the AC recharged with R134a as part of the PPI. The refrigerant leaked out by the time I got home (~10 - 12 hr drive)



When I started, pressure on the system was 0 psi as expected. I don't know if this means I'm out of oil in the system? I added the first can with dye, but was unable to locate the leak. I started the car, turned on the AC full, and added the second can. I was very disappointed to see the temp drop only about 10 degrees to 70F. Not sure why this was... though I did have some trouble getting the second can connected, and leaked a decent amount of refrigerant in the process.



I was just about to give up on the project in disgust when I finally found the leak on the top of the compressor. See the bubbles in the attached pictures.



I'd like any pointers anyone could give at this point. I'm guessing the compressor needs a new seal??? Can I safely say that the system has plenty/no oil in it??? Thanks in advance! -Jon



       
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#2

Just get a new compressor...
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#3

Yep, new compressor. Try these guys: http://www.discountacparts.com/index.htm



I have ordered a new (reman) compressor from them a couple of days ago. Haven't received it yet so I can't comment on the service, but the price was right.



Discount AC want's $375 - no core charge and free shipping, and supposed 24 hour shipping



Sunset quoted $323 + shipping +$170 core charge (your core must be rebuildible - not siezed) and 1 week to ship.



So for the money the Discount AC got my business because no core hassles and free shipping (although I did have to pay CA tax).
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#4

GRC - since I followed Dave's excellent advice and went to HC, my 968 Cab blows ice cold 40-42F on Fan#1 and lots of cold air at even Fan #4, so your car should be capable of cold temps.



The photos don't show where the "leak" is, but if it is at the top of the compressor where the hoses all connect, there are 4 "O" rings in there - common size that you can even get from Home Depot. Since your car is leaking anyway, it's a cheap DIY try for under $4. Worth a try. You have to remove the compressor and then the hoses from the compressor.



The rectgangular plate that the hoses mount to is attached with 4 allen cap screws - remove these and you will see the 4 "O" rings. These are identical to the neopreme plumbing O rings. A better bet is to get the proper "green" AC rings, and I got a 270 pcs kit off eBay for $15= H&H. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/270-Pc-HNBR...itemZ7990660399

If you are going to do the whole AC, I highly recommend you buy this kit as it has lots of the sizes and are the proper AC material for R134 etc. But in a pinch, the HD rings should do the trick.



While the compressor is out of the car and you have that plate off, any oil can be easily drained. There really is very little in the system.



The HC recharge kits from eBay @ $40 are a really good deal from what I see - more HC coolant, all the charge hoses, fittings, temp gauge, and UV leak detector light. You can buy cans of HCR12a (2 cans are all you need for the 968) and 4oz of Charge Oil is only $5 - most sellers will sell you up to 5 cans of any combo of what you need - 5 oz. leak deterctor with R12a, 6 oz R12a only, 4 oz Charge Oil, etc. You can easily get 2x2x2 cans to make up 2 complete charges for a single S&H charge. http://stores.ebay.com/enviro-friendly-company



If you don't mind testing for leaks by recharging and looking for the leak get 2 cans of leak detector charges and after replacing all the O rings around the compressor'hose connections, take the chance for $12 of oil and 1 can of leak detect to find if the leak is still there. Use a really dilute soapy water solution in a old windex bottle to check for bubbly leaks - the solution should be thin like you would make up for a kids to blow bubbles. It's easier to check for the leaks.



The alternative option is to take the car into a AC repair shop and get them to do a Nitrogen Charge leak test - environmentally friendly and no headaches like you will get using R12a. This test would cost about $40 for shop time etc, and it might be a better bet if you have multiple AC leaks or hoses that are shot.



Now, for the AC compressor - check out eBay. I bought a reman-AC compressor off a eBay seller $200 + $20 S&H and it arrived quickly and well packed. I needed this for our 944NA, but it is identical NipponDenso unit as used in the 968. There are a few sellers on eBay with 1000+ rating and anyone should be fine. I even saw some for $149+$20 S&H - and NO CORE CHARGE. So that works out to be a much better deal overall. http://stores.ebay.com/AJSAUTOPARTS_W0QQss...storeviewQQtZkm



Check out my post http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=1025 for the actual fill / detect procedure.



Those are photos of the actual temps I got with HCR12a on the first drive. Now that I figured out the fan settings etc. I can easily get the temp in this photo. So DIY and save a few $$, in fact a lot of $$. The hoses are the most expensive part of the system - the short one from the compressor to evaporator was $120 new! You can take a chance and try a used one - I got one for the 944NA for $20 from a low mileage car - again, off eBay - and it worked PERFECTLY. Good luck! Report your results when you are done.
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#5

Thanks for the great info! As suggested, the source of the leak is the o-rings. You can see the damage in the picture. My only question is, how do I know when I have adequate oil in the system?



[Image: AC3.JPG]
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#6

[quote name='GuardsRedCoupe' date='Aug 6 2005, 07:28 AM']My only question is, how do I know when I have adequate oil in the system?

[right][post="8450"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

The oil charge is 120 cc or 4 ounces. One of those off the shelf cans will do it.
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#7

[quote name='GuardsRedCoupe' date='Aug 6 2005, 07:28 AM']Thanks for the great info!  As suggested, the source of the leak is the o-rings.  You can see the damage in the picture.  My only question is, how do I know when I have adequate oil in the system?



[Image: AC3.JPG]

[right][post="8450"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Good work! Glad you found the leak.



If you cannot find a AC shop - just go to HD - take one of the O rings and get the exact size in neoprene. They are inexpensive.



Tip the compressor over to drain the old oil out onto a CLEAN pan of some sort. You can use this old oil to moisten the new O rings before you install - just give each one a little wipe of the AC oil before you seat it and reassemble. Make sure it is SPOTLESSLY CLEAN. Put it all back together and locate the LOW PRESSURE inlet port down by the compressor - the R12 fitting is on the Hose. Leave the engine OFF. Might as well go over all the hose fittings and snug them up before charging the AC too.



Connect and fill with 4 oz of oil, it will take only a few seconds - then fill the AC with 1 can of the leak detector R12a. Then go check for leaks. Use a short section of plastic tubing and probe around all the hose ends etc and listen for hissing = leaks. If it's all OK, add the last 6oz of R12a per the instructions.



Good luck!
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#8

Well, I did everything as described in the last post. It's working, but I'm still only getting 60F output on 80F day. Seems that it should be a little lower than that???





UPDATE: I guess I spoke too soon... when I got it out on the open road for a while between 45MPH - 60MPH, it dropped into the mid - to - high 40's. I'll wait and see how it is when the temp is in the high 90's. Thanks, everybody, for the help!!!
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#9

[quote name='GuardsRedCoupe' date='Aug 6 2005, 04:29 PM']Well, I did everything as described in the last post.  It's working, but I'm still only getting 60F output on 80F day.  Seems that it should be a little lower than that???

UPDATE:  I guess I spoke too soon... when I got it out on the open road for a while between 45MPH - 60MPH, it dropped into the mid - to - high 40's.  I'll wait and see how it is when the temp is in the high 90's.  Thanks, everybody, for the help!!!

[right][post="8456"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



That's better Jon - the AC is not going to blow like a GMC truck, but it will be cold. See my other posts on this topic - Dave G had good feedback on temps that I get.



Also clean off any debris you have on the evaporator in front of the rad - bugs etc will reduce the cooling capacity. The other thing that you could do (but it will require a recharge again) is to change the receiver dryer to get rid of moisture in the system. I did not bother to do this in the 968 as it appeared to be fairly new already - I did change it in the 944NA and honestly, I don't notice any diffference in temps, but I have yet to measure that in the NA.
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#10

[quote name='Greimann' date='Aug 6 2005, 09:33 AM']The oil charge is 120 cc or 4 ounces. One of those off the shelf  cans will do it.

[right][post="8451"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

On closer inspection, since I was changing my worn out compressor today, those little 4 oz cans are 2oz of oil and 2oz of refrigerant, so you will need 2 cans of oil charge if you got the same kind as I did.
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#11

[quote name='Greimann' date='Aug 20 2005, 02:16 PM']On closer inspection, since I was changing my worn out compressor today, those little 4 oz cans are 2oz of oil and 2oz of  refrigerant, so you will need 2 cans of oil charge if you got the same kind as I did.

[right][post="8990"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I just checked the extra cans I have and the EnviroSafe Oil Chage 3 indicated 4 oz of oil and no refrigerent. Compatible with mineral, Ester, and PAG oils.



Dave, is this the same brand? I still get a little bit of a squeal when the AC is first turned on for about 10 seconds, and then it goes away and does not return until the next start up.
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#12

I just had the Castrol brand oil charge from Pep Boys. I charged the oil then purged the R134 carrier propellant so I could start from zero. I just wanted to followup on something that I was concerned that I had incorrectly stated before. Bottom line, read the can.



If your compressor squeels, it is probably the belt. Give the tension arm 1/2 a turn tighter.
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#13

Thanks Dave! I'll check the belt next time I have it up on the jackstands - getting pretty good with my Kricket! Meanwhile, 3+ weeks later and the thermometer in the vent still shows as low as 40F! Usually in the 44-48 F range, so nice and cool inside the car. My son's 944NA is showing similar temps since we did his car 3 weeks ago.



Too bushed from all the alarm hassles this morning when changing the DS handle - good thing I had a rolling mechanics seat - saved my back!
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