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Mushy pedal & Brake Fade
#1

Was hoping to get some suggestions on how to cure my mushy pedal.



Current setup is m030 fronts, stock rears. Stock bias. I am using ATE fluid and KFP gold pads.



I bleed before every event. I do get some bubbles - but usually nothing crazy. I don't think the problem is with boiling fluid.



Regardless of this - I inevitably wind up with a lot of travel and a mushy pedal. Stopping force is usually good (until things get really hot), but the pedal just feels like crap and gets progressively worse.



I have always had this problem, and a fellow 968 driver I was driving with last weekend had the same issue. (Same setup, but different pads and Motul fluid)



Is a mushy pedal standard on these cars?



Any racers out there have suggestions to help cure the mushiness?



Many thanks

Jim
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#2

i haven't taken mine out on the track yet, but i have pushed the thing pretty darned hard, and so far, there has been absolutey no indication of any pedal change with heat



i've not heard of this being a problem either



sounds like you have a seal somewhere that is not holding
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

I've had a mushy pedal I couldn't get rid of. It wasn't so much mushy but 'long'. It was always there and consistent but took a lot of travel to work. It was like there was air trapped somewhere and it wouldn't come out no matter how much it was bled. I eventually just replaced the master cylinder. Interestingly, the replacement master cylinder had a bleeder on the cylinder itself where as the original did not. Now, I'm always able to get a few bubbles out of the bleeder on the master cylinder. I wonder what was happening with those bubbles on the older master? Does your brake master cylinder have a bleeder?



I recently recycled 40+ bottles of used Motul. Painful to think how much all that fluid cost.
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#4

Eric - that sounds very similar to my situation. Stopping power is good, but the pedal just feels like crap.



I will check the master cylinder. Don't know if it has a bleed valve or not.



I'm also considering switching to SRF.
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#5

if original, i wouldn't be a bit surpised if both the master and caliper seals were on their way out - those seals are only meant to last a max of 8 years - i expect we're going to see a lot more of this over the next year or so - an awful lot of people are living on "borrowed time" (including me)



oof - this is reminding me all too much of the british stuff - constant hydraulic problems with way too many of those cars
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#6

Calipers are new - but master cylinder is definitely a possibility. I will be looking into this.
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#7

The same situation has lead me to replacing the rubber brake lines (original) with stainless-braided. The logic explained to me is the fluid gets very hot... being fluid, it conducts heat upstream into the lines... rubber lines get hot and "spongy"... brake pedal gets spongy.



I've run with these now for a couple of track days, but not a full-out Enduro. So far, so good. Time will tell.
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