[flash]

what??? that's crazy, and i've never heard of that.



i just looked at the workshop manual, and the 944 plate looks just like ours. however, it looks like the ring gear is a separate component and you bolt through both the pressure plate and the flywheel. that's the goofiest thing i've ever seen.



no. ours is not like that.

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[jfrahm]

The 944 might have been set up that way so they could use a Rabbit starter with the polarity reversed. The 968 6MT starter is a bit odd as a result of going with the <acronym title='dual mass flywheel'>DMF</acronym> and easy access clutch. The flywheel lock for a 944 works with the tippy 968 but you need a longer one for the 6MT.

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[unknown4u]

Yep that is correct, the manual is a bit longer. But if you nog a longer one for a tip that is no problem if you fill out the space between the bellhousing. ( I presume this is the name of the house where the starter is fitted)

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[968cab]

Anybody interested in loaning, renting, or selling their flywheel lock for a manual transmission? If you live in the San Fran bay area, I could even pick up & return. PM me if interested.



-Mark

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[Scott Collins]

I've got one that I could loan you if you don't find one closer.

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[flash]

ring me up

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[MB968]

Which one you looking for, the one that goes in place of the starter, or the one that you can use with the engine out and the bellhousing off. I'm not using the one that replaces the starter right now.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='MB968' timestamp='1332261939' post='123600']

Which one you looking for, the one that goes in place of the starter, or the one that you can use with the engine out and the bellhousing off. I'm not using the one that replaces the starter right now.

[/quote]

This is the second time I've heard of the one that can be used with the engine out and the bell housing off. I got a part number for this one (can't remember what it is offhand), and did a search, but wasn't able to find it, so I assumed it was urban legend. Do you, or anybody else, know how to get one of these? And is it absolutely needed? Other than tightening the flywheel bolts (which it would seem could be done without locking down the engine), why would you need one? Seems like the trickiest part of this operation is going to be holding the engine steady while hanging from the hoist while tightening the flywheel bolts, as opposed to preventing it from turning, but I could be mistaken. I'm just about at the stage of installing my flywheel and clutch, which I would dearly love to do before I put the engine back in the car, so any info on this lock would be much appreciated. Thanks.

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[flash]

why not mount the flywheel after installing the engine? it will be easier to install the engine with the bell housing in the car, and then you can use the standard lock

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[Lear35A]

I cannot imagine trying to line up the engine with the bell housing mounted to the torque tube. Accessing the bolts...forget it. If anyone has successfully done it this way, I'd like to talk to them. I say it's not possible.

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[Cloud9...68]

Just trying to avoid the 87-step under-the-car-to-the-front-of-the-car-and-back dance to secure the flywheel. But it would take very little to persuade me to do whatever will make the task as simple as possible.

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[Cloud9...68]

Hi, Lance - it looks like your response came through as I was typing mine. I'm getting a little ahead of things, as there are a couple of things I need to take care of first (like all those pesky connectors and such I emailed you about yesterday), but I was going to ask you about engine install logistics. I was planning to secure the flywheel to the crank, and the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel (using an alignment tool to align the disk), and then attaching the bell housing, before installing the engine. Is this what you did? And did you ever use the mythical engine-out-of-the-car engine lock? Thanks.

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[Lear35A]

We'll work out the connectors.

1) For alignment of the clutch disc just use the shaft that does this on the drive train. You don't need an alignment tool. (Be sure to slide it back on the drive shaft before putting in the engine!)

2) I have the bell housing, flywheel, disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch release lever assembly all put together before dropping in the engine. You connect the torque tube flange 4 bolts, plug in the clutch operating cylinder and everything is connected. Much easier to install this out of the car rather than under it.

2a) Also a lot easier to precisely adjust the impulse sensor that goes in the top of the bell housing out of the car.

3) I use the 968 flywheel lock in the starter hole to torque the flywheel and pressure plate out of the car.

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[flash]

yeah - my bad - i was having another conversation with somebody else, when i was trying to figure out how to take it out the top, which they had never done, and they said that disconnecting the bell housing would make it easier to remove the engine

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[WJH]

I broke down and bought one. We've got a 944 and 951 in the family along with the 968. I found out my 944/951 one didn't fit. Oh well, if you're doing the work yourself you are saving much more than the cost of the tool.



When I was young (yes I'm 50) I would go out of my way to avoid buying a tool. As I got older I learned that my time is precious and anything to avoid stress was a good thing.

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[MB968]

[quote name='Cloud9...68' timestamp='1332263959' post='123606']

This is the second time I've heard of the one that can be used with the engine out and the bell housing off. I got a part number for this one (can't remember what it is offhand), and did a search, but wasn't able to find it, so I assumed it was urban legend. Do you, or anybody else, know how to get one of these? And is it absolutely needed? Other than tightening the flywheel bolts (which it would seem could be done without locking down the engine), why would you need one? Seems like the trickiest part of this operation is going to be holding the engine steady while hanging from the hoist while tightening the flywheel bolts, as opposed to preventing it from turning, but I could be mistaken. I'm just about at the stage of installing my flywheel and clutch, which I would dearly love to do before I put the engine back in the car, so any info on this lock would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[/quote]

Here's the urban legend lock (the one that is used to lock the flywheel with the bellhousing off). Just picked it up from Sunset. Had a chance to meet Bob, the Parts Manager; nice laid back fellow. Passed along a big "Thank You" from the Porsche community, especially the 968 group.



Part # is: 000-721-953-81 @$28.15 (club price).



   

   



I plan to do the front end seals, belts etc. on the stand, and will use the lock during this portion of the rebuild just to insure nothing moves during the process.

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[DaveN]

That's not the one I bought for my 968, it's much longer and twice the price.

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[MB968]

Dave, I think you are talking about the one the slips in where the starter goes.

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[tamathumper]

Mine looks like this:

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[MB968]

[quote name='tamathumper' timestamp='1332290332' post='123649']

Mine looks like this:





[/quote]



I have one like that too, but it needs to be used with the bellhousing on the engine.

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