[flash]

ok - so in the process of installing my monoball bushings all over the car, i ripped one of my stainless brake lines - of course it was the one farthest from the master cylinder, meaning i figured i would have to beleed the entire system



no worries - wanted to buy a power bleeder anyway



the stuff came in yesterday, and i procrastinated dealing with it, because i have always hated dealing with hydraulic fluid



i followed the instructions on the bleeder, and i can't believe it is this easy - i got only a few bubbles out of the line, mostly on the inside bleeder - none out of the other rear cylinder - now, granted, i capped off the line where it broke, was not dumb enough to break the seal on the reservoir cap (thereby breaking the pressure seal), and it only leaked about 2 dozen nickle sized drops in the process, but i expected more air



anybody else have any thoughts on this? how far should i go? do i really need to go around the entire car? it seems i got no air back up into the system - i've cracked the bleed screw loose a half dozen times now, and no bubbles - am i really done? is it really this easy?

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[968cab]

[quote name='flash' date='Oct 25 2005, 10:05 AM']anybody else have any thoughts on this?  how far should i go?  do i really need to go around the entire car? [right][post="11658"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I'd throw the wheels on and try it out. You'll know soon enough by the feel of the brake pad. It will be spongey (sp?) if there's still air in there. It's quite possible that it's that simple. If not, it's not that big of a deal to put in back in the garage and do the other corners.

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[flash]

yeah - the pedal feels great sitting here, but you know how that goes



not too much of a big deal getting it back in the air, though it's a lot more of a big deal now that i have the motofloor - i have to put plates under the stands or the whole thing is pretty rickety - i can't even jack up one corner without a plate under the jack, or it digs into the floor



very pretty, but not as easy to work on as concrete



well, i guess it's down she goes and off for a very brief test drive (need an alignment again before i can really get her out there)

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[Clem]

Given that the Motive is so easy - why not bleed the entire system?

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[flash]

i can - just not sure there is a point, as i can't see air working its way back up the line, and was wondering if anybody else found similar results

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[BruceWard]

The motive bleeder is that easy to use, but I would bleed everything because it is so easy.

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[flash]

as i am inclined to do anyway - i'm already under there working out the new belly pans, ducting and cable routing anyway

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[968 Cab]

Bleed it while it is up on the stands - fluid is cheap. Hitting a wall / curb / tree / car / person when you have no brakes = more expensive. Yep, speaking from personal experience at a DE.....

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[SANDOVAL]

Buy the Griots Garage jack stands they will solve your problem. I did and I love them they are designed for race deck flooring.

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[flash]

just may have to do that eric - this way sucks

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[Eric_K]

Before you call it good, be sure to test how the brakes feel with the motor running. I've been caught by that one. The brakes felt firm after bleeding but with brakes booster the pedal went to crap. Then you have to go back to square one.



I would see no reason not to bleed the whole system while you are at it.



Eric

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[flash]

certainly prudent - besides, i should bleed the clutch again anyway, just as a normal course



p.s. - knew about the vacuum booster effect - had that one catch me before too

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[Brian]

not sure if i'll have two posts pop up here... my last one didn't show...

when i bled my clutch, it was very messy. the bleeder up under there leaked all over when i loosed it up. it's much smaller than the brake bleeders (from what i can tell). let me know if your's leaks too. i may have to replace mine or just seal it better with some teflon tape next time.

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[flash]

perfect



no leaks at slave when bleeding (yes, a bit lacking in design though)



no air anywhere



pedal rock hard after running engine





will drive shortly

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[Dave]

The Motive really IS the hot set-up, isn't it? I had my now 14-year-old son bleeding brakes/clutch on the Porsche back when he was only 10.



When in doubt, blast a liter of fluid through there (1/5 liter for each corner + clutch), and you are virtually guaranteed to have flushed/replaced the entire system in the 968.



For what it's worth, I also got VERY little air out of the rear lines when I swapped them out for stainless as well. I was pretty surprised considering one is opening the entire hydraulic line up.

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[flash]

initial test drive complete - no worries - brakes are great

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[Harvey]

I wish I'd purchased the motive brake bleeder 20 cars ago. It's way too easy and no disgruntled wife having to push the pedals.



Harvey

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[Dave]

Harvey - Funny how that works, huh? I can spend way to much money on car parts/maintenance...



BUT, if she has to drive me to the shop to drop-off or pick-up the car, then it's the riot act!



Gotta love team owners, er, spouses I mean.

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[S_Cal968]

What's the recommended pressure for the bleeder? Unfortunately I mis-placed the instructions. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wacko.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> The motive web site mentioned 10 psi for initial setup.

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[flash]

that's what i used - worked like a champ

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