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Intermediate shift linkage finally REPLACED
#1

Just have to share that I completed the SECOND MOST MISERABLE job I have done on any car (first is the R&R on the late 914 airbox assembly) - replacing the intermediate shift linkage.

 

Why and how did I need to do this? I made the decidedly unwise decision to attempt to restore my vehicle's shifting characteristics to new. Finding that my shifter pin had ovaled, I replaced the shifter and bushings which resolved about 80% of my shifter's side-to-side slop. But I couldn't leave good enough alone. Looking at the PET diagram, I figured that I could get it to stock tolerances by tightening down the rear transverse link on the intermediate shift linkage (which is above the transmission and completely out of sight, and almost out of reach).

 

   

 

I get it - almost - tight enough. Big mistake. BANG - my 13mm box end wrench shears the rusted bolt straight off the stud.

 

For obvious reasons, I now lose whatever improvement in shifter slack I've made, along with any use of the shifter in a horizontal plane. I then make the second poor decision of the night - to blindly weld a washer to the sheared bolt, to regain side-to-side action in the shifter, which would at least be a temporary fix. It takes multiple hours of literally blind MIG welding (the linkage is above the trans and out of sight), in the dark, while holding the washer with bare fingers - along with liberal application of JB Weld to my hideously pathetic bead (which I can't see, only feel), before I get a washer on that doesn't pop off every time I try to shift out of 2nd.

 

In the process I set fire to the nylon coupler of the linkage. But I don't know it's a nylon coupler at the time. I've got an extremely ominous glow coming from above the transmission. I put my mirror up there and something's burning green-orange. So I figure I must have set the magnesium trans case on fire. I'm more than a little panicked. I run to the garden hose and spray the transmission for a solid 5 minutes. Lying under the car competely soaked, with weld burns on my arms and chest, acrid smoke in the air - I decide it's a good time to call it quits.

 

New intermediate shift linkage takes 2 weeks to arrive from Germany. It takes three separate unbolting-pulling-failing-rebolting cycles before I finally got the linkage arm off the transmission's shift rod. That mother was completely corroded on. There's almost no working room. The exhaust heat shield (which, granted, I eventually did unbolt) punishes me by repeatedly lacerating my forearms. Every puller I tried failed until finally a solid 19mm tie rod puller did the trick (in about 10 minutes, no less). 

 

So it took a month but it's finally replaced. And, can I just say, the shifter in this car is now GLORIOUS. Zero slop, in any axis, whatsoever - just firm positive shifting goodness. Worth it? No. But an experience not entirely without its lessons. Big Grin

 

   

 

   

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#2

I have the "short shift" kit in my 968, a vey quick ( and clean ) job which resulted in a considerable improvement, but willing to bet it's not even remotely comparable to what you have achieved after this Herculean effort . Hard work , more often than not , pays off BIG ! Sounds like the shifting is as perfect and as enjoyable as it can be ! Rewarding no doubt .
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#3

I have said before on here that I rebuild these rear linkages, there is a company in Germany, WPO shop on eBay that’s sells all the parts to redo the nylon Bush part for about $50


And that is the easy part, I can only agree that with the gear box in the car this has to be one of the most awkward jobs, that heat shield was produced by a German razor blade manufacturer


The puller for doing this job I made out of a single bolt ball joint puller it works first time every time but it’s still really hard work, but as you say the improvement in shifting is more than worth it


I have done 7-8 in the last few years, and it’s right up there with door locks for loosing skin
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#4

Its a good thing it wasnt a Mg fire. Water is bad for that sort of thing. ;0)

But im in awe, didnt know there was such an easy* fix for the slop in the shifter.

*NOT!

My inner glutton for punishment is intrigued...


Waylander, r u saying that u also did this repair without dropping the gearbox?


I sure would enjoy getting rid of the slop in my shifter...

(Dont take it dirty, geez)
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#5

Yes you can do this without dropping the gearbox, I have done a few now, it is one of those really frustrating jobs



To make it a bit easier you have to remove some bits to start, the heat shield above the rear exhaust box, and a few other bits


You will need something to get the shifter off the gearbox selector shaft, I used a track rod end puller


Once off it’s easy to rebuild, if your an engineer I even have a drawing to make the shifter bush out of your chosen material
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#6

MLB - If you have side to side slop in the shifter - the first step is to repair or replace the shifter and shift rod bushings - which is a MUCH easier 30 min job. The pin in the shifter ovals and introduces a lot of play. 

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#7

I just removed the gearshift knob and boot and inspected the stack of shims bushing and cup springs where the gearshift lever attaches to the gearshift rod. Those look tight and fine, although maybe they still warrant replacement. The pieces are cheap from porsche.

But I still have almost 16 mm of side-to-side play in the gearshift lever, without engaging any springloaded resistance, which seems to indicate the 'play' is transferred back to intermediate shift lever back at the trans. Hrm.

 

Wayander, I wasnt able to find ebay seller WPO shop on ebay.de or the US ebay sites, but that price of closer to $50 sure beats the $205 that Sonnen lists for the assembly, 944 424 013 04 (superseded part number from original 944 424 013 01).

 

   

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#8

Ah sorry, the seller has changed name


It is now Partworks_de


I have bought lots off Richard over the last few years, I deal with him directly not on eBay


seller:partworks_de


If you cant find it email him

Info@partworks.de
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#9

MLB - the play in that assembly doesn't show up as any play in the pin/bushing/cup washer assembly itself, unless you're missing a bushing.  The slop that develops in the shift lever is due to wear (ovaling) on the pin that connects to the shift rod. It's noticeable when moving the lever side to side - kind of hard to explain, but a gap wears between the outer edge of the pin and the shift rod. Also the bushings wear with time. Even a tiny tiny amount of wear can translate into pretty significant side to side play in the shifter. The issue becomes that the the shift rod requires more and more lateral movement from the lever to "tip" enough to move the shift plane. Google for "944 sloppy shifter syndrome." 

 

I was skeptical that I had any significant play in my shifter but went ahead and replaced it anyway, and it cured 90% of the lateral play. Should have left it at that and never crawled under the car. Not to dissuade you from taking on the intermediate linkage job...  Big Grin

 

I gotta mention - also - the shift lever bushings in our cars are specific to 968 - so the 944 repair guides only partially apply. 

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#10

For the Shift lever you need the following parts

 

999 166 034 02 x1

N 027 381 2 x1

999 924 002 40 x2

900 222 015 01 x2

944 424 231 01 x1 (heat up in a jug of very hot water before fitting)

 

and if the arm is worn oval

944 424 015 02 x1               $83.00
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#11

Thanks pdxmike and Waylander!

so, pdxmike, when you say "pin that connects to the shift rod" you're NOT referring to the ball-and-socket arrangement, right?  (seen as parts 1 and 11 in PET diagram 701-00)

 

I dont see any noticeable movement in the stack of bushings, washers etc that are part of the assembly holding the shift lever to the gearshift rod. That all looks tight (Im talking about the connection in the center of the picture I posted above).

 

So I just took that apart, and used a micrometer on the shift lever pin (pic'd below) but didnt detect any significant out-of-rounding. The 944 sloppy shifter youtube etc show horrible wear on the shift lever pin, which is because those cars didnt have our plastic bushing apparently.

 

                   

 

Then I wiggled the shift lever while it was only held in by the ball-and-socket, and found a little bit of straight up and down slop but very little side to side or fore-aft.

So I think the majority of my side-to-side play is probably due to a loose connection back at the trans, but I could be wrong. That will have to wait until I have time to get the car up in the air.

 

For a few bucks I guess I should replace the bushing and other PET parts 17-20, that Waylander listed above, since that part is easy. Less sure about $90 for a new shift lever that I dont think will improve anything?

 

 

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#12

I had a problem with the socket at the base of the shifter. The entire unit was cracked into pieces, once I replaced that shifting got substantially better.
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#13

I re-measured my old shifter pin and it has 0.4mm of ovalling wear. If you aren't seeing any wear with your micrometer then that isn't the problem. Also - my outer pin bushing was missing and so I had some metal-on-metal wear. You appear to have both bushings intact again suggesting you don't have the typical wear problem. 

 

New bushings (pin and base) are probably a reasonable and cheap option. 

 

Interested to hear what you find at the transmission. Be very careful with your 13mm wrench back there!  :o

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#14

when you go to remove the rear intermediate linkage, you must remove the bolt completely just loose is not enough,

 

It is cramped you are working almost blind, you can get a bit more room by supporting the box and undoing the two bolts in the cross memeber

 

also having you drivers side rear wheel off is an aid
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#15

Hmm, OK well if 0.4 of a millimeter is enough to cause a problem then I will reconsider replacing the shifter and the bushings and the spacer for the ball and socket first.

Will let you know

Thanks!

( I just spent 250 bucks to replace the badly worn leather on the handbrake with a whole new arm. Thats been bugging me for five years. Its funny how they make you wait 3-4 weeks to get stuff from Germany but for 35 bucks more you can get it in 2 days. Ill wait...)
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#16

I just recoloured mine with gliptone leather paint,


Did the drivers seat as well, looks like new and cost me about $40, and a few hours work


But we digress from the awful job the gear linkage is
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#17

As an aside, the POs, of which there were at least 4, either had big butts that abraded the top of the set handbrake, or perhaps they just didnt care that much. I figured this wasnt going to 'buff out' and its a downer to me every time I get in the car. :0/

Plus it says they didnt keep the handbrake adjusted properly because it was obviously pulled too high in order to incur that extent of wear.

 

   

 

I wanted this part to look good, and maybe if the value trend keeps up I will consider new seat covers but holy cow the cost of that!

(Cant go for the idea of *sanding down* the leather and re-dyeing, as its already thin on the drivers outer bolster.)

 

But I will look into the gliptone paint, or US equivalent. Hoping it doesnt involve sandpaper?

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#18

It's not so bad, you just need to rub it over to get the fluffy bits off and give the color a key to stick to
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