[Nenehubert]

Ok, i'm still in the middle of my front seal, and water pump change. Lack of time due to midterms, and work... sigh. The only question i have right now is how do i remove the tensioner? Do i just undo those two bolts that seem to hold in into place.. How do i compress it afterwards? How do i remove the seals? Is this a hard process. Thanks, guys, trying to learn these cars whilst not ruining them.



I think that's it for now.

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[frank moran]

[quote name='Nenehubert' date='Mar 15 2006, 06:30 PM']Ok, i'm still in the middle of my front seal, and water pump change. Lack of time due to midterms, and work... sigh. The only question i have right now is how do i remove the tensioner? Do i just undo those two bolts that seem to hold in into place.. How do i compress it afterwards? How do i remove the seals? Is this a hard process. Thanks, guys, trying to learn these cars whilst not ruining them.



I think that's it for now.

[right][post="17399"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

the first thing to do is remove the tensioner arm, it has a circlip holding it on, remove that then slide the arm off of the pivot. You may have to loosen some of the 10mm bolts holding the back plastic cover. Now remove the tensioner, 2 12 or 13 mm bolts. If you have a large enough vise you can compress the tensioner, but you need a socket that fits just to the outside diameter of the end of the tensioner, this is to protect the end from damage while you compress it, you'll see a dimple on the the end of it, you want to be on the outside dia. of that with your socket, est. a 17 mm.

My vise wont spread far enough so I use a jack and I jacked it against the front wheel hub since I had the wheel off, this can be precarious but it worked for me. Compress it very slowly and I use a small finishing nail to retain it once it's in place, be sure the nail head is facing in the right direction so you can remove it upon assembly. Removing any seals be careful not to damage the journal it rides on....

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[Nenehubert]

HA, i feel so dumb. I forgot to order the waterpump gasket, so i decided to rush order it. How do i remove the cam belt-crankshaft sprocket to change the seals behind it. I assume my seal kit has the seals for it.. Also this balance shaft looks like it's leaking. Any feedback? What other ones should i change besides the two balance shaft gaskets and o-rings? I want to take the cam sproket off... but afraid of breaking the cheese head bold that holds it on. How hard is this to remove and replace again? I want to paint my the outer cover and i feel that the cam sprocket needs to be removed. Thanks again.



Oh yea. here is a pic of the leakage.. Also would the waterpump roller be where it was leaking? don't really know. I didn't see any breakage in the old gasket

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[Greimann]

A gear puller will get that sprocket off. The odd thing is, according to the parts diagram, there is NO seal identified for the front of the crank shaft. Anyone actually know if there is one?



Water pump leaks are usually around the shaft seal.

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[bob blackwell]

last time I had the belts changed and the front of the engine sealed the Crank Seal was replaced, PN 99911333140. ai t only cost $14.30 Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[Spieln968]

It has been awhile since I did my front engine reseal but I do believe that there is a seal as well as a large o ring on the crankshaft. When you change the seals on your balance shafts, look at them closely because they are different sizes. They look very close but are different. There are also some mylar washers that get replaced too.



If you decide to take off your cam sprocket to change that seal, do not forget to lock down the gear with three small bolts through the holes that hold the distributor rotor. This way you can avoid having to reindex the cams. The cam gear is not hard to take off but make sure you do not let the cams rotate.

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[Nenehubert]

I can't get the lower balance housing off.. I unbolted it, and took the two turnbuckles off. For one of the idler pullies there is a washer then a nut.. Do i does this hold the housing on also. Here's a pic. Trying to get this finished up today. How do i get that crank seal out? Thanks again.

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[frank moran]

[quote name='Nenehubert' date='Mar 17 2006, 05:03 PM']I can't get the lower balance housing off.. I unbolted it, and took the two turnbuckles off. For one of the idler pullies there is a washer then a nut.. Do i does this hold the housing on also. Here's a pic. Trying to get this finished up today. How do i get that crank seal out? Thanks again.





[right][post="17514"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



man your making me nervous, here's how I do it, if you cant get a seal puller into the seal lip or a screw driver etc. behind the seal to wedge it out then VERY carefully punch a small hole in the metal part of the seal for a small sheet metal screw, turn the screw in only a few turns and work the seal out with a pair of pliers. Now doing this you have to be very careful not the scratch the crank or damage the seal housing. Looking at it you may have enough room to simply pry it out with a screw driver or other wedge capable instrument. It's easy but you have to be careful not to damage the crank.

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[Nenehubert]

[quote name='frank moran' date='Mar 17 2006, 07:23 PM']man your making me nervous, here's how I do it, if you cant get a seal puller into the seal lip or a screw driver etc. behind the seal to wedge it out then VERY carefully punch a small hole in the metal part of the seal for a small sheet metal screw, turn the screw in only a few turns and work the seal out with a pair of pliers.  Now doing this you have to be very careful not the scratch the crank or damage the seal housing. Looking at it you may have enough room to simply pry it out with a screw driver or other wedge capable instrument.  It's easy but you have to be careful not to damage the crank.

[right][post="17521"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]





haha.. sory about that. I finished it already.. the pet diagram that i have doesn't show the stupid hex bolt that was covered in goop. HAHA.. so i would tug on it.. no budge.. Was simple once that hex came out. Thanks though. One more thing. I have a lot of resistance on the upper balance pulley. It's hard to spin by hand. I don't remember hurting it in anyway. kinda scared about this.. it rolls.. but has lot's of resistance.



The seal/ o-ring process is much easier that it seems... was my first time.. and didnt want to ruin anything. Like to "Measure twice and cut once" if you know what i mean.

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[frank moran]

[quote name='Nenehubert' date='Mar 17 2006, 09:05 PM']haha.. sory about that. I finished it already.. the pet diagram that i have doesn't show the stupid hex bolt that was covered in goop. HAHA.. so i would tug on it.. no budge.. Was simple once that hex came out. Thanks though. One more thing. I have a lot of resistance on the upper balance pulley. It's hard to spin by hand. I don't remember hurting it in anyway. kinda scared about this..  it rolls.. but has lot's of resistance.



The seal/ o-ring process is much easier that it seems... was my first time.. and didnt want to ruin anything. Like to "Measure twice and cut once" if you know what i mean.

[right][post="17524"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

your doing well, are you talking about the balance shaft itself? or a roller?? what work did you do on the balance shaft? did it turn easier berfore your work? I know both my balance shafts turned very easily

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[Nenehubert]

[quote name='frank moran' date='Mar 17 2006, 09:22 PM']your doing well, are you talking about the balance shaft itself? or a roller?? what work did you do on the balance shaft? did it turn easier berfore your work?  I know both my balance shafts turned very easily

[right][post="17526"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



For the upper balance shaft. I took the front housing off to replace the o-ring. I unbolted the 3 13mm Boltt and after taking the woodruff key off the balance housing slid right off. Being very dumb, not really just was out of it today, I tried to slide the housing back on with the woodruff key in first ( i'm a dumb ass, i know... that's where i was keeping it so i didn't lose it). I didn't see any scaring on the inside, and i dont see how that would cause it to not turn freely. It's rather tight and has be a bit scared. will i have to buy a new housing? With the housing off, the balance shaft spun with little resistance. The housing then bolted onquite easily .. once i took the woodruff key out. Did the same with the lower balance housing. PAIN IN THE ASS... i damn hex bolts. I used a drywall screw to take out the crank seal... replaced the o-ring with that.



Just bolted on the water pump and trying to get ready to put the belts on. I still have the balance shafts marked and yes i know about moving the cam gear back to TDC. Hoping for smooth sailing unless i have to replace that housing.

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[Nenehubert]

Awesome, were in business. Have the cam belt on.. looks good?



http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/nen...rt/IMG_0275.jpg





My cam sprocket didn't move much.. maybe 1/2 a tooth.. strange? I moved it back to where it was when i placed the cam belt on.. piece of cake. Thanks guys for all of your help. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> will start soon. HOPE IT DOESN'T DIE. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Nenehubert]

So i have my car back together... and it's leaking oil like crazy. It's coming from the valve cover. I just replaced it with a new one today and apparently it's still leaking.. it's in the back left corner. the bolts are only on hand tight.. and i used some sealer on the sharp transitions. Trying to get my car leak free. Should i tighten the back cover bolts? Put more sealer in the back? This sucks. Although, a plus is i no longer have any belt squeel. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> The balance idler roller was touching the balance belt when it was static. so i just moved iti a bit and.. no squeel. Looks like i done good, eh? I hope it isnt a seal.. would suck to take everything down again. Gotta love the cars though.

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[Greimann]

The bolts should be tight enough so they stop turning. The torque on the bolt does not actually compress the gasket. It is the length of the bolt and the valve cover height. The gasket fills in what is left. This should work fine unless your valve cover is warped really badly, or there is a big gouge in the sealing surface.

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[ugo968cab]

If your valve cover is leaking, the problem (probably) is not the gasket but the 13 small "grommets" (rubber spacers) the go below each valve cover bolt.



There are on the market low quality grommets that loose their elastic properties due to temperature, and shrink. If you have those shrinked grommets, your valve cover will leak more and more, also dripping on exhaust with lot of white smoke.



The ongly solution is to buy 13 new original Porsche grommets. They are thermally stable and put sufficient pressure on valve cover.



Bye



Ugo





[quote name='Greimann' date='Mar 20 2006, 05:18 PM']The bolts should be tight enough so they stop turning. The torque on the bolt does not actually compress the gasket. It is the length of the bolt and the valve cover height. The gasket fills in what is left.  This should work fine unless your valve cover is warped really badly, or there is a big gouge in the sealing surface.

[right][post="17626"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

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[Nenehubert]

[quote name='ugo968cab' date='Mar 20 2006, 11:52 AM']If your valve cover is leaking, the problem (probably) is not the gasket but the 13 small "grommets" (rubber spacers) the go below each valve cover bolt.



There are on the market low quality grommets that loose their elastic properties due to temperature, and shrink. If you have those shrinked grommets, your valve cover will leak more and more, also dripping on exhaust with lot of white smoke.



The ongly solution is to buy 13 new original Porsche grommets. They are thermally stable and put sufficient pressure on valve cover.



Bye



Ugo

[right][post="17643"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



The leak from the valve cover stopped. Unfortunately, there is still a leak from that reigon. Still may be the valve cover; i need to clean the area to further inspect. There is another leak, besides the one under the left, back corner of the cam cover, and it's about 9 inches left of the cam leak. It's dripping from the flywheel where the inspection hole is. What could this be? I'm ordering the grommets and another valve cover to make sure. Hope it's not any rear seals.. i'll be pissed, royally.



I was considering bringing it to somebody to look at, but i feel it's a waste of my money. Oh well <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />. Go from leaking coolant crazily to leaking oil crazily. The thing is, it wasn't leaking like this before i did any of the work. All of the leaks now are not where the initial leaks were. Damn..



One leak has to be the valve cover cause it's still hitting the exaust.. creating a smoke-screen.



Thanks

Rene

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[frank moran]

[quote name='Nenehubert' date='Mar 21 2006, 05:39 PM']The leak from the valve cover stopped. Unfortunately, there is still  a leak from that reigon. Still may be the valve cover; i need to clean the area to further inspect. There is another leak, besides the one under the left, back corner of the cam cover, and it's about 9 inches left of the  cam leak. It's dripping from the flywheel where the inspection hole is. What could this be? I'm ordering the grommets and another valve cover to make sure. Hope it's not any rear seals.. i'll be pissed, royally.



I was considering bringing it to somebody to look at, but i feel it's a waste of my money. Oh well <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />. Go from leaking coolant crazily to leaking oil crazily. The thing is, it wasn't leaking like this before i did any of the work. All of the leaks now are not where the initial leaks were. Damn..



One leak has to be the valve cover cause it's still hitting the exaust.. creating a smoke-screen.



Thanks

Rene

[right][post="17757"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Carefully go back over your valve cover installation, the cover on that engine is pretty fool proof and is not be susceptible to leaks if it's put on correctly. Are the seals for the plugs on correctly and not holding the cover off the head.....if the rear main seal wasn't leaking before you started working on the engine it is probably your valve cover leak running down the bell housing.??? did you by chance loosen the rear cam bearing carrier and dislodge the rear seals???

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