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Fresh air blower runs continuously
#1

I had a mystery battery drain and I figured out that the fresh air blower runs (very slowly) when the dial is set to zero and the key is out of the ignition. I pulled the fuse so it doesn't keep draining my battery, but does this sound like a problem with the fresh air relay or the ignition? Does anyone know if there is supposed to be power to the fresh air blower when the car is off?

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#2

Congrats, that's a new one! We have had weird problems with the cooling fans, but I don't recall ever hearing about the heater fan running when the car was off. Off the top of my head I would guess the ignition switch was messing up, but maybe someone else on here has an idea.

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#3

it should not be blowing when the car is off.  my guess would be an ignition switch issue.  is the car a tiptronic?

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#4

Gotta be the switch, no other way power could be running to that fan motor. Matt says it's an easy DIY.
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#5

love to hear how it's easy.  i may have to do it in the black car in january.  didn't look easy.

 

in case somebody thought i was nuts, if the car is a tip, and the gearshift is not fully forward, it could keep the ignition switch circuit in the ACC position, which could turn on the fan

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#6

I was surprised how (relatively) easy it was. Pull the wheel and remove the instrument cluster to start (remember to disconnect the battery the night before to keep the air bag computer from freaking out). Short straight-slot hex bit on a 1/4" box wrench worked great to get the two back screws out. The connector is by the driver's right knee, disconnect, reconnect the new one, fit it into the tabs on the switch housing and reassemble. I swapped out the straight-slot screws with some Allen head ones sourced from the local hardware store. That allows you to reinstall them with an Allen wrench rather than the hex bit in the box end wrench. Reinstall the cluster (put a bit of lube on the plastic sliders for the three connectors to make next time easier, and you know there will be a next time). Reinstall the wheel and off you go.

 

For those new to the forum, replace the instrument lights in the instrument cluster while you are in there, and maybe refurbish the plastic light tunnels with foil while you are at it. Also, clean the grounding nuts on the PC board for the gauges and consider changing the odometer gears while you have it out if they are original. All the info you need is on this forum. just use the search function (the little gear looking icon next to the search window) properly and it will magically appear.

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#7

yeah - those 2 screws were a drag.  getting to them, even with what you describe, was not fun, and i don't think i got them tight enough as a result, and will have to get back in there in january.  when i do, i will definitely be replacing them with something other than a slotted screw.

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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#8

Thanks!  It is a manual, so that wouldn't be the cause.

Good idea to replace the screws with something easier to take out next time. I just had the cluster out to replace the lights and fix the odometer, so I've got that part down by now, so hopefully it should be pretty straightforward.

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#9

Get the part from sunset. They have the best price and they will not try to sell you the wrong part like my local dealer did.
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