[patkeefe]

Hello all,

The 968 is leaking oil; has been for years. I can no longer stand it. I want to get the engine out and put in a new oil pan gasket, and check the seals. I think the rear seal is leaking also.

 

I can follow the Clarks. procedure and remove the engine out the bottom. Or, I can try to get the engine out from the top. Is that do-able? Anyone ever tried it?

 

Pat

 

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[Cloud9...68]

I've heard it's possible to remove it from the bottom, but I think you need a lift to do it - conventional jack stand can't lift the car high enough to clear the engine from below.  The manual describes how to lift it from above, which is the procedure I followed.  Definitely a big job.  It really helps to have a load leveler, and a second set of hands while lifting it out.  You also need a set of metric curved wrenches to remove the top bolts for the connection between the torque tube and the bell housing.  I bought a set from Harbor Freight, and they worked very well.  Good luck.

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[Bulti]

It is possible to replace the seals without removing the engine. Just another option. I got mine to be bone dry for years now.

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[Cloud9...68]

Bulti,

 

That's great to hear.  I tore my engine down to the bare block, and carefully re-sealed the balance shaft covers (along with of course replacing all of the seals and gaskets), and didn't see a drop of oil on my garage floor for about six months.  Then, it started leaking again, so I'm of the opinion that this is pretty much a "luck of the draw" type of thing - it depends how flat you various mating surfaces in your particular engine are.  In general, these are just leak-prone engines.  I'm tempted to move on to something like this one of these days:  

 

http://www.motorwerksracing.com/porsche-...-18t-swap/

 

I'm assuming that they could make something like this work for a 968, although of course the 968's bell housing design is different from the 944's.  But for a price, I'm sure anything is possible.  Of course, mine is a track rat - I wouldn't do something like this in a street car, especially if there's a chance of the 968 appreciating in value in the coming years.

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[Ryan]

Cloud...interesting link. That 1.8 is super light.

 

The pan gasket can be changed by dropping the cross support and suspension while using a top motor support.

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[oppositelock]

If your going to do a major reseal, then pulling the engine and doing the work in a stand is WAY easier and more time efficient than with the motor in the car.  You'll have to pull the engine for rear main and/or balance shaft housing reseal. Out the top is how the factory manual describes and is how I have done it.  Some like from the bottom, but you'll have to have a way to get the car up high enough to clear the engine when it's on the ground. The factory workshop manual is a big help with this job.

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[Bulti]

Hi Cloud, it's been a while. Looks like a great way to go, altough it would change the character of the car significantly. But it sure looks like these guys know what they're doing. How deep are your pockets ;-))


I wonder, is it the VW/Audi block?


Re oppositelock: I changed EVERY gasket, except for the balance shaft seals. But those can be sealed with a good heat resistant RTV silicone. Holding up fine for a few years now.


But, if you have the means and skills, I agree that pulling the engine would definitely be a more efficient way to seal things up and clean everything.

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[Rap]

Cloud wants to run with the big boys!!

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