[Peter B]

I'm building a maintenance schedule spreadsheet for the 968. I want to include recommended parts.



Searching the web, there are many opinions. Since a we may be loosing a few experienced members, I thought I'd piece by piece get opinions. I've searched the forum. There is not always a consensus.



1) Manual Trans oil (with a 93-<acronym title='Limited Slip Differential'>LSD</acronym>, if this makes a difference). Swepco 201? How often to change? 48K miles? Additives?

2) Oil Filter - Mahle #OC142 or Canton. Does the Canton have the Check Valve. Do you want this?

3) Battery - Mine's about to go.

4) Fuel Filter -Make and how often (24K miles?)

5) Spark Plugs - (24K miles?) Mine are Pt +4, VW.

6) Spark plug wires - How often to change.



I'll be happy to share the spreadsheet when I'm done. If you've already got a good one please send it my way.



Thanks,

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[rl968]

I use swepco 201.



I use Bosch plugs and Bosch fuel filter.

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[flash]

plugs are a bit subjective. bosch copper are the cheapest but give only average performance. platinums last longer. most of us use ngk iridium, as we want all of the performance we can get. (side note: you can't use a multi-prong plug at all with the supercharger)



canton is the no brainer oil filter. far less mess. better filtering.



for batteries, i was an interstate fan until a couple of months ago. can't find them anywhere now. switched to bosch.



spark plug wires should be changed every other spark plug change.

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[MCL968]

This is a great idea, I would love a copy when it's finished



I switched my trans oil to Amsoil because they 1) have a 75-90, which is specified and other providers had somewhat different weights, and 2) there were some negative comments about Swepco's additives and possible synchro damage.



I think a list of part numbers would also be a great idea since I find different numbers for the belts and I want to run what works best. I noted yesterday that Dayton has a regular and a heavy duty timing belt, which I had never noticed before, and I was curious as to the benefit of the HD belt, which incidentally cost around 100 more than the standard duty unit.

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[apex]

Affirmative on the Canton filter and cartridges. I will say it has torn apart the filter element when opened. Canton has a 2.0 upgrade that addresses this I believe.

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[flash]

i have never seen the filter actually torn apart, though i have seen the metal end cap come off

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[ds968]

[quote name='MCL968' timestamp='1387038316' post='153579']

I noted yesterday that Dayton has a regular and a heavy duty timing belt, which I had never noticed before, and I was curious as to the benefit of the HD belt, which incidentally cost around 100 more than the standard duty unit.[/quote]



Guessing it's a typo and you mean Dayco belt ? Anyway, where did you find the info about the heavy duty one and any idea who sells Dayco belts for our car currently ? I've heard for many years that Dayco timing belts are as good as if not even better than Gates and I could be wrong but I believe they also were at one time Porsche' OE belts . I wonder if the heavy duty one finally has the Kevlar component they were talking about incorporating in it ? Do we dare dream about a bullet proof timing belt that has a worry free 100k / 10 year operating life ?

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[ds968]

Amsoil for anything and everything they make in oils and other fluids for the car. ( although my mechanic also swears by Swepco for transmissions )

NGK iridium plugs ( one step cold for chipped / air box mod NA engines )

Interstate batteries ( readily and easily available at the Interstate stand-alone stores, but rarely carried by any other retail places nowadays )

Non-phosphate ( orange color ) coolant - Prestone ( silver container with an orange cap )

Canton filter - a big ++1 on that .

Chevron gasoline. ( don't laugh, it is indeed far superior in terms of additives and cleaning / detergent elements to any other gas )

Additives : my mechanic is dead set against putting additives in anything he feels they do more harm than good, but will concede that Water Wetter for coolant, and Techron fuel system additive are the exception and beneficial products . I can vouch for the Water Wetter.

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[apex]

Flash what's happened almost every time I open the Canton is - yes - the top twists off - but sometimes the top doesn't let got of the perforated metal filter element before twisting it all to hell. Ha - In spite of this I still like the Canton for these cars.

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[flash]

do you make sure to lube the seals with oil before installing?

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[apex]

Yes.

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[flash]

hmmm - i've never seen that. perhaps you are overtightening the cap, which would then twist on the filter as it tightens. it's really only supposed to be hand tight, just like any other filter. you have to use a tool on it, due to the design, but you should barely be putting any torque on it.



what happens to me, is the filter stays on the cap. when i then pull it off, the end of the filter often pops off. but the filter always stays in its original shape



this has been the case on the 5 cars with that filter that i have serviced here

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[ds968]

wow, that has never happened to my canton filter ( although i have the oil changes done at my mechanic and he's the one who

twists off and on the cap ..)

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[KRAG50]

Every time I've ever changed the Canton filter, the metel top comes off with the canister top, but the filter holds it's shape.

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[flash]

yup - i suspect that lid is getting over-torqued



the early units (without the screws) required a filter wrench to hold the bottom still, while you worked the cap. if you tried to loosen or tighten both from the cap, then you end up with stuff buggered.

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[banditsc]

The new ones use four bolts to secure the cap to the filter.

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[apex]

OK! OK! Clearly user error! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rock.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> I should not be so cheap and get the upgrade.



But apologies to PeterB - let's keep this on-topic: anything else for the recommended maintenance sheet? BELTS of course should go on there, with recommended source and mfr (Gates, if you read this forum...)

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[flash]

lol - nah - just use a filter wrench on the body. then, when you unscrew the lid you won't have that problem, assuming you don't over-torque it

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