[Ernie]

Luke at Sunset asked me if Ihad a manual or a tip, so I think they are making both. Will check later today.

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[Tahoe968]

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IceShark Battery Cable Installation - 1.doc Size: 1.57 MB  Downloads: 15

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<p class="">From Robby <rkc951@yahoo.com>  Tuesday, June 2, 2015 at 8:40 PM

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<p class="">"...all I offer, as of right now, are battery cables. They are not stock- they're made after the original IceShark battery cables. It's become quite an effort to explain b/c there are so many options, but here is the mostly original (I did add a few minor things) complete kit:

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<p class="">One 1awg  main [+] battery to starter (EF)

<p class="">One 4awg main [+] alternator to starter (EF/F)

<p class="">One 4awg supplemental [+] from battery to fuse box (EF/F)

<p class="">One 1awg (2-pc) main [-] battery to ground- (EF on long cable)

<p class="">One 4awg supplemental ground (EF)

<p class="">Miscellaneous Hardware, etc

<p class="">New military spec clamps to attach main cables to battery

<p class="">All lugs have adhesive-lined heatshrinked

<p class="">EF = cable is covered w/ExFlex

<p class="">F = fuse

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<p class="">- the grang total (with fuses) is $350 & covers S&H, Paypal, etc. The fuses are the best I've found but are getting really pricey now- my best cost has finally topped $30/ea(!) & since there are 2 of them, if one owns the supplemental.

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<p class="">When "IceShark" from R.L. was alive & started making them after sev engine fires caused by cable insulation gone bad, he didn't want to deal w/new exciter/solenoid wires (that go through the alternator to starter cable insulation). The 944/951/968 owner would pull existing wires through. Now, it seems, most 968 guys want new ones, & they're newer cars. But I finally found a way- customer has to reuse plug but simply pry out old pin ends & plug back together at firewall.

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<p class="">If interested in any of this, let me know & I'll price things out for you. attached are the installation instructions BEFORE the new Exciter/Solenoid are threaded through.

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<p class="">Sorry for delay- typed over half of this that night last wk.

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<p class="">Thanks,

<p class="">Robby"

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[Inkedupfatboy]

I tried emailing them months ago. I never got a response so gave up and I ordered OEM's from Sunset from Germany. Took forever but they are in the car. I did it as more of a preventative measure. The originals that came out look totally fine, but the car has less than 50K on it.

I don't like it when a company asks for my business then never responds. I don't take to well to that. I had even asked Jay to get in touch with them and that didn't even help. It is what it is.

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[jferraro17]

MCL---

 

Any chance you know the model/item number of the starter/alternator cable you ordered from Summit??

 

Thanks!

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[MCL968]

Here it is:

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-1-84

 

I chose the longer cable so I could run it along the fender well to avoid the heat in the center of the engine. I did the same with the small trigger wire for the alternator that comes from that bizarre connector under the firewall cover above the master cylinder. That connector has two wires, one charges the alternator, the other triggers the starter solenoid. Both are prone to failure, so I suggest you replace them both by cutting and splicing a new, heavier gauge wire into the connector.

 

As I recall, I had to open up the connectors at both ends a bit with a round file, but besides that, this cable was a great option and with those three wires fixed I worry less about spontaneous combustion. I was absolutely shocked by the condition of the original wires when I removed them.

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[type968]

As I recall, I had to open up the connectors at both ends a bit with a round file, but besides that, this cable was a great option and with those three wires fixed I worry less about spontaneous combustion. I was absolutely shocked by the condition of the original wires when I removed them.

 

No pictures by chance?

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[jferraro17]

Thanks!

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