Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Calling all detailers our
#1

I had my car ceramic coated just over five years ago . It was great for the first two or three years , but I think the coating has worn off by now. No interest in having it ceramic coated again and I want to go back to the usual detail and wax routine .. the question is : will a clay bar application prior to the buff and wax be ok to remove whatever residual may be left from the old ceramic coating , or is something else better to prepare the surface for the new wax job ? 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#2

Double Post
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#3

I had my car color corrected and coated in 2010 or so. That was “pre-ceramic,” but TBH, I think the Glosit treatment was pretty much the same thing. After “selling” it to a buddy and storing it outside under a cover for two winters after I repo’d it, it was still doing pretty well. 

But when I found myself back in Las Vegas to do my shocks and struts in 2017 after I moved back west, I felt it was time for a recharge. The second time I nixed the color correction and just had the coating reapplied. This was where it was at in 2021.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ERWukaewsms?s...fsFxpnnCkW

 

Earlier this year, an imaginary internet friend on another forum posted about how the guys from The Rag Company came to one of his PCA chapter get togethers and demo’d their Optimum No Rinse and Hyper Seal coating and how much he loved it. I bought some and tried it out. The ONR arrived first and I couldn’t wait to try it, and I found it pretty remarkable. My only criticism was that it seemed to attract dust, kind of like ArmorAll does. (Once I applied the coating, it no longer does) 

 

While I was waiting for the HyperSeal to arrive, I figured, like you have, that I should clay brick it before I applied the coating. So when the coating arrived, I spent about 4 hours, ONR, followed by clay brick (using the ONR at double concentration for the “lube” as recommended by The Rag Company) followed by application of the coating. 

 

I honestly couldn’t be easier.* And since, true to the company spiel, no more car washes. I take a small bucket of ONR out to the parking lot, spray it, wipe it with a rag soaked in ONR, and dry it with a microfiber towel. 

 

The results are easily equal to the expensive Glosit details (599 2010 dollars for the full Monty, $399 for the redo in 2017) They say it lasts a year but since it only takes an hour or two to do the whole car, I think I’ll do it again before I put it away for the winter.

[Image: attachment.php?thumbnail=14574]

 

Best of all: It’s as good on rubber, black plastic, and glass as it is on paint. And no white residue to clear out of cracks and crevices. 

 

*They only mistake I made was being stingy on the MF towels. Fold them in quarters, and use 1/4 on each panel (one side only) I turn the towel over on my trunk and it ended up being a little cloudy. Redid it with a new towel and it was perfect. 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#4

Thanks, good info !  

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#5

I clay, compound, polish then put a ceramic coating on. All done with a random orbital. Found using a speed shine product when wiping the water off from a wash enhances the appearance. Lots of work but it works well on all my vehicles including the track car. Easily lasts a year and always looks great.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#6

The ceramic I’ve had applied by a pro shop was a commercial grade one ( unlike the ones you can buy retail ) and the car was given  five coats of it .  That’s why I’m concerned that even after five years there may be enough residual there ( maybe the first base layer of ceramic ) which should probably be removed cautiously .. just polishing it might do it though,  as opposed to using a clay bar which could leave marks ..?? 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#7

I’ve never had a clay bar leave marks, other than when the surface gets a bit dry and the clay “skids” across it, which is easily removed with a quick spritz and more rubbing. 

 

FWIW, here’s my bar, after an ONR and drying. I assume all that black is the previous coating. Kind of amazed me after how immaculate the paint looked before I clay barred it. 

   

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#8

Good luck with getting it looking great!



Along the same lines as your question...any idea what to do or where to have a small area fixed where the top coat has started to peel?



On the top of the front fender (wing) where the sun can be very intense and another spot on the hood (bonnet) is where it's failing/failed. It's not horrible yet, but I'd like to address it. I bought some 2K clear coat, but I'm hesitant to use it now...
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#9

They now use a rubber type pad that goes on a random orbital machine. You need to use a liquid lubricant, like the old clay bar, to utilize the pad and not damage the surface. Much easier than the clay bar and works better. I suspect you might have to use a rougher, white,  pad with orbital  to take the ceramic off. This is something that needs to be done carefully. I’ve done this step on the race car.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#10

I’m having a professional detailer do this , so hopefully he knows what he’s doing when it comes to any type of surfaces . But checking to see what others have had success with , nonetheless 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#11

The product I explained is different than what a pro uses. Less expensive also.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#12

I would assume the pros have all the different varieties of application tools, but I’ll ask him specifically if he has , or can get and use the one you described above.  

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#13

I am lucky my car sees water and a sponge once a year.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#14

Quote:I am lucky my car sees water and a sponge once a year.

Your car stays in the garage 364 days a year ?   :o  Tongue
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#15

yea pretty much. I don't think I have put 5,000 miles on it since I bought it in 2013. I am nearly timed out on my second set of tires.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#16

Quote:I am lucky my car sees water and a sponge once a year.

 
:lol: I remarked to one of my friends that I’ve washed my car more times this year than the last 5 combined. Generally stored indoors under a cover and gets washed once in the spring when I take it out and once in the fall when I put it away. I didn’t wash it at all in 2021. (I was busy with my Spyder all summer and only put about 500 miles on it.) 
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#17

Every time I wash a vehicle or think about washing a vehicle it rains. I should charge farmers...

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#18

You shouldn’t drive your car after you wash it. It just gets dirty.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#19

oh, so  that's what causes it - thanks.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#20

I used to do a smoke signal and rain dance routine , until I got a cease and desist letter from the NAADL ( Native American Anti Defamation League ) for appropriating their culture, 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread / Author Replies Views Last Post
Last Post by Roboman
11-19-2023, 06:42 AM
Last Post by ds968
10-28-2021, 07:24 PM

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)