[Rudolf968]

Hello,

My cab hood is creaking (the worser the road, the stronger becomes the creaking). It appears that the manuel locking from the hood at the windscreen isn't thight enough.

This lock-system has no adjustmets. I wonder if anybody had the same experience and perhaps did some modification at the rubber sealing or at the locking mecanism ?

Thanks for any suggestion.

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[Anchorman]

Some folks will be confused - by "hood" you mean "top" - at least for us Yankees. Mine creaks at times and for no apparent reason - but, when it is creaking, worse roads make it worse. However, it's sufficiently infrequent that I haven't tried any fixes. I'll watch this thread with interest.

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[doster]

there is one thing you can try, put the hood or top or whatever you want to call it down take the cover off

and loosen the locks, there is a small amount of adjustment,push em back as far as you can and tighten

back up. if that doesn't help go to the winsheild locks, pull the panel loosen the locks up pull em down

and tighten up. this worked for me it sucks down nice and tight now.

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[944/84]

Is your top in manual mode? If so, this might be the cause of the creaks and rattles. I had a terrible problem with the top of my 1994 Cab banging around on the windshield header rail when driving over anything but the smoothest road surfaces. When I bought the car a few months ago, the top was in manual mode. In troubleshooting, and eventually fixing the problem with the electric mechanism, I discovered that I had completely cured the rattling problem as well. Below is a copy of the note from the service record I keep for my car:



**************



Returned convertible top to electric mode: Found console switch wiring harness disconnected from switch, and individual leads disconnected from harness plug. Reconnected leads and harness, tightened top mechanism gearbox friction bolts, and adjusted top-open and top-closed microswitches on passenger-side gearbox I/A/W factory service manual. Now, when the top-closed microswitch actuates as the top approaches the windshield header rail, and the motors stop, the top is approx. 1.5 inches from the header rail. When in manual mode, the top would rest on the header rail when lifted into the closed position. This is because the friction bolts on the gearboxes were backed out, resulting in excessive slack in the system. Thus, adjusting the stop position of the top via the top-closed microswitch, in combination with friction being restored to the gearboxes, has resulted in more front-to-back tension throughout the top frame when the top is closed and locked. This extra tension, in turn, completely eliminated the rattle of the top on the header rail when driving on bumps or expansion joints in the roadway.



***************



I should add that I don't have to apply excessive pull on the handle to keep the top on the header rail when rotating the mechanical locks. I experimented with different positions of the top-closed microswitch (which determines the distance between the top and the windshield header rail when the motors stop) before settling on the one that seemed to provide the best "feel" when pulling the top down by hand onto the header rail.



I hope this helps.



Regards,



Bill T.

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[flash]

the sheet metal itself tends to bend too - a look along the edge will tell you - this results in almost .080 of slack in the wrong direction



correction involves bending it back into place

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[tamathumper]

For the benefit of future searchers who have a cab top rattling, I've posted my fix here - http://www.968forums.com/topic/1252-cab-..._p__127198.

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[banditsc]

I fixed my rattle with zip ties. I just put a zip tie in each of the holes, which took up the slack in the hole, so now the pin doesn't slop back and forth in the hole.

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[daly]

I had a similar problem and it wasn't that the top did not close enough it was the metal pins were hitting inside once closed. Took plastic tubing, put small piece over each pin, left tip of pin exposed, otherwise it did not fit all the way in, silent as could be.

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