[Oily]

Hi

A while ago I was working on my front brakes. This maybe of use to some of you folks.

Sorry about the quality of the snaps, but they may help someone.

1. Loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up. Put the car on axel stands. Wheels off.

2. Noticed that at the recent service, the front brakes had been bled on the outside bleed nipples only, is that normal?

3. Definite plate lift. Most noticable on the bottom plate, on the inner side.



4. Unclip the pad retainer, is there a knack to this?


5. Off with the brake wear sensors, they ping off the pad,but disintegrate in the process.

6. Wiggle the pads around to move the pistons back. Try and pull the pads out.


This doesn't work while the caliper is on the hub. So take the caliper off the hub, which allows the pad to be removed.

7. The disc is bu**ered on the inside.



8. The disc comes off easily, just two small screws holding it on.

9. Put the caliper back on the hub, makes it easier to work on. Plate lift quite visable.



10. The white stuff is aluminium oxide....




Be very gentle and very careful!!!!!!! Got all 8 out. One was interesting.



11. The discs looked like this.



I will complete the work in Part 2.

Regards

Oily

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[Oily]

This is Part 2.

12. Ready to put on the new ATE discs, Pagid Blue pads and sort out some plate lift.



13. Scrape off the corrosion from the calipers. The lower part is quite corroded, maybe, because its the lowest point and water settles here.



14. Test fit the plates to make sure they haven't warped. All seems ok.



15. Use some copper slip between the plate and the caliper, to try and prevent corrosion.



16. Put the allen screws back in.

17. Next to the disc. Clean up the hub, so the disc will sit correctly. Pop the disc on. The screws didn't seat properly first time, so clean them up abit and try again.


18. Then caliper back on.


19. Pads in, sensors clipped on and spring ready to refit.



A smear of copper slip, on the disc hub, to stop corrosion between the aluminium wheel and the steel disc. Wheels back on and it's time to bed the pads in.



Cheers

Oily

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[jaap]

Nice write up. I think you were very lucky you could just remove those caliper plate bolts. Maybe they had been removed before because they are usually the hardest part of the job and often require taking the caliper of the car, heat, welding, swearing etc [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] .

Jaap

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[rxter]

At the risk of redundancy, I say again,

Caliper Man

By the way I don't think buggered is flagged here - US server [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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[astroede]

Oily, great pictures. I replaced the pads and rotors on my '94 cab last week, and I ran into a challenge that caused a little bit of frustration...I wonder if you could help. In step 3, second picture, you show the wear sensor leads in place on the pads, with the red jacketed cable going from pad to pad, and the black jacketed cable going from the inner pad to the strut area. The retainer (spring) is still in place. In the next step, you show the retainer swung away from the pads, and the sensors still in place on the pads. How did you get from step 3 to step 4 (swinging the clip away) without threading the black and red sensor cable through the retainer first, in which case you must remove the sensors from the pads? I could see no way to swing away the retainer without pulling the sensor cables out first...and reassembly is the same awkward situation; the black cable gets in the way. It would be much easier / faster to place the cables BEHIND the retainer clip and assemble the pads fully before swinging up the retainer, but it doesn't go together well that way. Just curious how did you deal with this situation...or am I missing something??? Did you disconnect the black wear sensor cable at the strut? Didn't look like something good to do, but would certainly make it easier; is there a trick to disconnecting it? This isn't detailed in the manual.
Thanks again for the photos and the process.

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