I have the 968 numbers removed from the back of my car. There are worn areas where the black is missing. Has anybody got a good way of restoring the color? Paint....what type...best glue for reattachment???
Thanks in advance -Ryan
well, any can job is likely to chip pretty easily, but you can try SEM - i think they make a semi gloss as well as the Trim Black - that stuff is pretty tough
as for attachment, i would probably use Krazy Glue or a 2 part epoxy
frankly though, i like it without them emblems - i think it makes the car look wider and cleaner
Buy new numbers from Sunset or similar. Much easier in the long run....
<!--quoteo(post=75510:date=Jul 14 2009, 10:42 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Jul 14 2009, 10:42 AM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->well, any can job is likely to chip pretty easily, but you can try SEM - i think they make a semi gloss as well as the Trim Black - that stuff is pretty tough
as for attachment, i would probably use Krazy Glue or a 2 part epoxy
frankly though, i like it without them emblems - i think it makes the car look wider and cleaner<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I agree with Flash on the paint. When I restored my rare edged numbers I used the SEM trim black. Great paint with just the right amount of gloss.
As for attachment, stay away from the glues. You could damage the paint underneath the emblem. You'll want to follow the direction that the factory did. Get some 3M two sided tape. Clean off the bottom of the numbers, then add and trim the tape. Don't paint the emblems until after you have done this step. Then, you'll need to make sure you get a template of how they were on there so they can go back in the same position. Make a template with tracing paper and pencil before you take them off. Then cut out the template, the three numbers together, place it against the car and use masking tape to make note of where the emblem points will go. You'll should have already cleaned the painted surface area on the car so it is smooth. I used the same process above on my car and it came out great. Let me know if you have any other questions.
New replacement emblems are getting expensive. I think someone said they are $40 now?
Jeff
SEM trim black aerosol can ~$11-12
3M double sided tape (not the foam backed crap) ~$5-8
I'd still get new numbers. A lot less time to prep/install for only about $20-25 more. I guesstimate it would take me about 1-1.5 hours to remove/repair the existing vs. 20 minutes to put on a new set.
YMMV
Of course Jeff's was a bit of a unique case as he found the square edged numbers and needed to repaint them since they are NLA I believe.
i haven't had a lot of luck with the 3M tape lasting very long - it keeps letting go - what's the secret there? maybe it just gets too hot here
<!--quoteo(post=75521:date=Jul 14 2009, 12:35 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Jul 14 2009, 12:35 PM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->i haven't had a lot of luck with the 3M tape lasting very long - it keeps letting go - what's the secret there? maybe it just gets too hot here<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Did you get the stuff from the body shop supply store (see photo link)? It is very strong. You can even layer it up if needed. The secret is always just to make sure the surfaces are clean. You'll need a couple of fresh razor blades for the trimming.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a73/jeff9...M2sidedtape.jpg
I just stuck mine back on with a dab of clear silicon and they are holding fine. The old original adhesive actually pitted the clear coat under the letters so I didn't want to do that again.
yeah jeff - that's the stuff - holds for a while and then pops off - must be the 100 plus heat
as an indicator of how hot it can get here, using the laser thermometer, i measured the black garbage can on the side of my house two days ago - a sizzling 175 degrees - no joke! the concrete next to it was 145 - the side wall of the house was 126 - it was only 90 outside
<!--quoteo(post=75535:date=Jul 14 2009, 03:45 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Jul 14 2009, 03:45 PM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->holds for a while and then pops off - must be the 100 plus heat<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Wow, well, I've never had any issues and I would worry about all your cars being "debadged" by mother nature then. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]
debadged is a concern, but not nearly as much as what happens when i leave the M3 outside (black) - one hot day and i have to go and treat the seats - brutal - it's outside right now, as i just had the garage floor redone - ugh
<!--quoteo(post=75539:date=Jul 14 2009, 04:20 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ Jul 14 2009, 04:20 PM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->debadged is a concern, but not nearly as much as what happens when i leave the M3 outside (black) - one hot day and i have to go and treat the seats - brutal - it's outside right now, as i just had the garage floor redone - ugh<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I don't want to tell you what an abnormally cool summer we are having here in New England.
just so you didn't think it was all b.s. - not the hottest spot around here, but as of about 2 minutes ago (3:30pm) shot of my hood in my driveway
[
attachment=6746]
Wild. Hey while we are on the subject of debadging and rebadging, Mikey removed my trunk numbers with dental floss. I have these odd fantom numbers now (the previously covered paint is shinier than the uncovered paint, naturally) and believe it or not the floss left some tiny scratches. I've heard and read the term "buff it out", as in, "Oh that will buff right out". Reminds me a little of the golfing phrase "that won't hurt you". ANyway, is buffing out as simple as using some light polish and an orbital buffer? Will it really smooth things out?
Thanks
it can, done right - done wrong, it will leave a nasty blurry spot
Clear silicone has worked fine for me to reattach the rear lettering. And I live the bloody desert of southern Arizona, where the temperature is 99F as I head for bed at midnight.
Lightweights!!!!
Tom
<!--quoteo(post=75560:date=Jul 14 2009, 08:47 PM:name=rxter)-->QUOTE (rxter @ Jul 14 2009, 08:47 PM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->ANyway, is buffing out as simple as using some light polish and an orbital buffer? Will it really smooth things out?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Yes it will, stop by my house and I'll rub out the scratches for you. Like Bob said, it can be done wrong but if you have the right tools and polishes the scratches will disappear.
Due to also having the ghost numbers under the old badges, I can not leave them off. The clearcoat was dull around the numbers from years of waxing around the badges. I polished the area, but could not loose the ghost. It is like sharpie that was covered with clearcoat.
What is SEM paint? I have never heard of this brand.
I think Jaeger has the numbers for sale at about $7.00 each. I may look into replacement. Thanks.
For what it is worth...I have found 3M VHB tape 5952 (5925 or 5962 are the same adhesive) works well in this exact application - bonding a logo to a painted surface. This one is a "foam" tape, available in different thickness and widths, (pretty sure your neighborhood Home Depot or Lowes might have it) utilizes an adhesive that likes High Surface Energy materials (painted components), and is temp rated to maintain adhesion for days/weeks at 250F (minutes/hours at 300F).
Our vehicle tests occur in AZ, and much mileage is logged, I have not yet had one test incident citing failure of this adhesive utilized for the function of attaching a logo.
All that said, our logos are metallic cast pieces - also High Surface Energy materials, if the 968 logo in question is an acrylic material (perhaps) or a polypropylene (doubtful) adhesion might be an issue with this particular tape, as these are lower surface energy materials which 5952 likes a lot less.
Clean your painted surface well, isopropol and water, then apply - keep in mind this one is pressure sensitive, so take some time pressing it on. If you can lift it off with anything other than using a screwdriver as a pry bar, you'll need a different adhesive, once this stuff goes down correctly, it doesn't come off - but with using the fishing line garrote technique.....
Should removal be necessary, you'll likely be glad you went with the tape vs. an epoxy or other type of "glue".
my $.02.....