Sometimes when I depress the clutch pedal it does not return all the way up.
The engagement has also fallen very close to the floor of the footwell.
Reverse has become very hard to shift into and 1st gear is hard when the tranny is cold.
I've done a recent brake fluid change but I did not have the right tool to bleed the slave.
Could that be what's causing this?
Clutch, p. plate and flywheel are 4 years old with 20,000 miles on it.
Brake fluid was changed in May to ATE Blue.
Yes. It is possible that's the cause.
To bleed the clutch, all you need is a clear hose, a pump of some sort, and a 7mm wrench . I used the same pump I bought to fill transmissions and differentials, then the rest I did with the help of my lovely wife who paitently pumped the clutch and the brakes.
if bleeding it does not solve the problem (definitely do it with a motive power bleeder, not a vacuum pump, and not by "pumping the pedal"), it sounds like the high pressure line is failing. have somebody press on the clutch pedal while you look at the line. i'm betting it has a "balloon". very common failure. the hose is only good for a max of 10 years. that is why i came up with this:
http://shop.design1r...h-Line-SSC1.htm
i highly recommend changing all 3 components in that system at the same time (high pressure line, clutch master, slave). otherwise the next weak one will see an increase in pressure and fail. also, any contaminant that was in there will still be in there. it happens at least half the time.
Ok, I'll head out to buy a 7mm wrench and give it a whirl.
I like the idea of a SS line for the clutch. I just added SS brake lines so why not a clutch?
Now if the nice court system will give me my speeding ticket money back I could afford it.........
Crap. Started bleeding the slave and my assistant said the pedal just made a bang.
I get up to check and the pedal is just snapping forward and backward with no resistance besides the spring.
Is there supposed to be a pin holding that spring?
take a look at the high pressure hose
Mine did that as well. I had little or no fluid in my hose, and none in my newly replaced slave cylinder. As soon as I pulled enough fluid into the slave cylinder, the pedal returned to normal operation. I took it for a drive and everything worked. But that was mine. Yours may still be a bad hose, as Flash said.
I have no vacuum pump, nor a motive power bleeder. I just used the only pump I had available. YMMV.
Ok, I checked each part starting with reservoir, blue feeder line, master, high pressure line, and slave.
No leaks from any and the high p line looks good, no sign of stretching from a bubble.
Clutch pedal fully pushes the piston into the master so I'm leaning towards no fluid/ low fluid in the slave.
Or worse case, broken fork.
I'm going to start with your suggestion mbardeen.
Hopefully it won't be hot tomorrow.......
Same symptoms and mine and was the slave. It's not an expensive part. I changed the hose anyway cause I liked the new one and you'll never have to say you're sorry. Flash is probably right, with the age of these cars change all three and never look back.
Power bleeding is the way to go also. If you're not willing to spring for the power bleeder then a $9.95 pump up sprayer from local home improvement store, cut off the nozzle, and plumb it to an old reservoir cap.
Lol. I am so sore from working on the car yesterday......
And the weather is soooo nice tooo. Sigh
Ok, I tried bleeding the clutch but all I'm getting is air with a dribble of fluid.
Once again I inspected all the lines and can find no leaks.
Could this be the clutch master sucking in air from a bad seal?
I've decided to just go ahead and buy the clutch master and slave cylinders.
And while I'm at it buy a new "blue line" from Paragon and that SS line from Flash.
This will end up being my 4th brake fluid change this year.......
Orders placed all over.
Playing the waiting game for parts.
[quote name='Lord_Galva' timestamp='1343682608' post='130264']
Orders placed all over.
Playing the waiting game for parts.
[/quote]
We're having jackets made. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
lol - the clutch line goes out tomorrow. the replacement batch of heat shields is now ready for pickup, and i will grab those wednesday morning and ship them out thursday. that will wrap up everything i owe anybody, other than the supercharger kits.
I meant the tires, wheels spacers, lug nuts, and zip ties I ordered last week, but thanks for reminding me, one more goody for the "hurry up and get to it" pile <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
Darn it Flash! The old connectors were metric and yours are US.
I just kept saying that to my assistant every time I grabbed the 13mm instead of the 7/16 or whatever it is.
In the process of changing everything out, the metal line's nuts were stripped.
Sigh.....
I just placed an query at Sunset for the part. (944.423.091.23)
Pelican has them for $20 but they are ordering it from a dealership network so it will take extra time to get to me. I'm going to see if Sunset can get it to me quicker.
Also, after reading Clarks-Garage I discovered that I'm bleeding the slave wrong.
He says to raise the back of the car up so the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't drop too low.
frankly i never noticed it before. i used fitting wrenches on that. in almost 5 years and hundreds of lines, i'm surprised i've not heard about this before. i'll look into it though.
Ok, I've been messing with this thing for 2 and a half weeks with no progress since the day I tried to bleed it.
I've replaced everything from the little blue line down to the slave and nothing!
I held the slave plunger down and had someone operate the clutch and it works.
I measured the clutch from the inspection hole and got 19mm. (new is supposed to be 18mm)
The fork moves correctly back and forth with no side to side movement.
The clutch pedal to master cylinder adjustment screw has been set to factory 147mm
What am I doing wrong?
What else should I check?
are you getting fluid out when you pressurize the Motive Power Bleeder and open the bleed screw?